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My C-3 Stereo Solution

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Old Jun 19, 2002 | 09:38 PM
  #21  
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SlixVett
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From: Emerald Coast FL
Default Re: My C-3 Stereo Solution (Tex71BB)

The local Pep Boys had them in stock, but the only one they had was broken, so I found it here:

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshow...number=265-926

I also used:

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshow...number=265-940

to make the trim piece around the control panel. These sheets are available in 1/16, 3/32, and 1/8 inch thick and look great.

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Old Jun 19, 2002 | 09:40 PM
  #22  
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SlixVett
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From: Emerald Coast FL
Default Re: My C-3 Stereo Solution (427V8)

It is an A/C car, I blocked off the duct and routed the air out the other vents.
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Old Jun 19, 2002 | 09:52 PM
  #23  
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SlixVett
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Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Emerald Coast FL
Default Re: My C-3 Stereo Solution (Todbo)

I soldered two lengths of Cat-5 cable (computer network cable - more on that later) to the contacts on the back of the control panel. Had to use two lengths because there are 12 contacts, only 8 wires in Cat-5 cable. Wrapped the cables in tape to make a harness and fed into a male HD-15 connector from Radio Shack (you know, VGA monitor connector on your computer. On the base unit side I fab'd a piece of circuit board to fit into the slot where the control panel contacts fit and soldered another two lengths of cable there, using a female HD-15.

My original idea was to use a VGA monitor extension cable to join the control panel to the base unit but the cable, designed for analog signals, had two much crosstalk and the data stream was being corrupted (noise, cable capacitance, etc messing up the square waves). So I made an extension cable out of (you guessed it) two lengths of Cat-5 cable with male and female HD-15 connectors, routed it under the console and up to the control panel. Works like a charm.

This method could be adapted to any removable face CD player; the Phase-Linear works well because of the removable half-face. If you used a full-face unit, you could fashion a radio delete plate (using the ABS sheet I mentioned in an earlier post) and mount the full-face over the existing radio cutout, routing the wires through the delete plate.

The main difference is how you'd attach the wires to the control panel and base unit contacts. Soldering directly is the preferred option, but I wanted to be able to return the unit to it's original function.

Slick
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