1970 Brake Overhaul...First Timer
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 4,366
Likes: 7
From: Las Vegas NV
1970 Brake Overhaul...First Timer
I went to replace my brake pads, but my calipers and rotors are shot....rusty & worn rotors, leaky calipers, etc. So, instead of replacing just the pads (easy) I'll need to replace the rotors and calipers, too. It looks like a pretty simple (albeit time consuming) job, but any "gotcha's' or tips before I order the parts and get started??? Recommendations??? 
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 3,126
Likes: 15
Are the calipers original to the car? If they are I would keep them or have them sleeved with stainless steel. When you take one off, split it and have a look inside. Pics. of mine are here. mike...
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-g...-calipers.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-g...-calipers.html
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 1,241
Likes: 4
From: Okinawa Okinawa
Depending on your comfort w/ tools, you can either rebuild yours if they are stainless sleeves or you can buy new ones. I got mine from Corvettes of Houston but look at all the vendors here and see who has the best prices if you go for new ones.
If your rear rotors are original, probably not, you will have to drill out the rivets.
If your rear rotors are original, probably not, you will have to drill out the rivets.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,428
Likes: 5
From: Japan
My '70 came with sleeved calipers. I took the brakes apart because the pedal was going to the floor even after I replaced the master cylinder. Even though the calipers had already been replaced by PO with sleeved units (and the car only had 43,000 miles on it) the bores were galled and would not hold a seal. I replaced both front calipers with Autozone rebuilts which are sleeved, and the left front still leaks...
While I have commented several times on these pages regarding how crude and unsophisticated these cars really are, C3 brakes really were as advanced as anything available at the time, and there are a lot of moving parts that can fail or wear out. Best thing to do is disassemble and inspect EVERYTHING, Then rebuild/ replace every component that needs it. You may be able to save the rotors by simply sanding off the rust, but most likely the caliper bores are all corroded and/ or pitted and you'll need new calipers...
Welcome to the C3 club!
While I have commented several times on these pages regarding how crude and unsophisticated these cars really are, C3 brakes really were as advanced as anything available at the time, and there are a lot of moving parts that can fail or wear out. Best thing to do is disassemble and inspect EVERYTHING, Then rebuild/ replace every component that needs it. You may be able to save the rotors by simply sanding off the rust, but most likely the caliper bores are all corroded and/ or pitted and you'll need new calipers...
Welcome to the C3 club!
Supporting Vendor
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 576
Likes: 3
From: Muskegon MI
I've got complete kits with instructions for your brake job, whether you opt to rebuild your own calipers or exchange them. Let me know if you have any questions, I'm glad to help.
Andrew
800-442-0335
http://www.muskegonbrake.com
Andrew
800-442-0335
http://www.muskegonbrake.com
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 38,923
Likes: 1,482
From: Southbound
Cruise-In II Veteran
Your rotors might be rusty from sitting, but they are likely not to be as worn as you think. Have you measured for wear? Unless they are deeply scored and as long as they retain minimum thickness, you probably do not need to replace them.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 1,062
Likes: 28
From: Burkburnett TX
If your thinking about rebuilding your calipers like I was, I recommend trying to get your bleeders out before ordering a rebuild kit. Mine broke off in the caliper and getting them out was not worth the frustration involved. This might make your decision of rebuild vs parts store and easy one. The rebuilt calipers I got from the parts store are Delco castings and look identical to factory calipers, only nice and new looking.
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Verdad Gallardo
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2001
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and do NOT think it's a good idea to remove the existing rotors to 'turn' them. They MUST be done on the car in situ.
Drifting
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 1,353
Likes: 44
From: Calgary Alberta
Are the calipers original to the car? If they are I would keep them or have them sleeved with stainless steel. When you take one off, split it and have a look inside. Pics. of mine are here. mike...
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-g...-calipers.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-g...-calipers.html
To OP, I'd do everything you can to save your original calipers...especially if you intend to hang onto the car for a while.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,520
Likes: 11
From: Hinckley OH
If you haven't removed the calipers yet, get yourself some caps and plugs for the brake lines so you can keep the master cylinder from going empty. The easiest place to cap it in my opinion is where the metal brake line meets the rubber flex hose. If you are plugging a metal line you will need a union like this
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=129538_0_0_
and a plug to fit it. It will save you a lot of time bleeding the brakes. I would also recommend replacing the rubber flex lines at this time so you don't have to worry about them.
When you have the new lines and calipers on, just open the bleeder screw one caliper at a time and let it gravity bleed while making sure that you don't let the master cylinder go dry.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=129538_0_0_
and a plug to fit it. It will save you a lot of time bleeding the brakes. I would also recommend replacing the rubber flex lines at this time so you don't have to worry about them.
When you have the new lines and calipers on, just open the bleeder screw one caliper at a time and let it gravity bleed while making sure that you don't let the master cylinder go dry.
Last edited by my 76 ray; Mar 18, 2013 at 11:35 AM.