Hey all,

I've been going over the boards for a while and have seen countless HP upgrade post with everything from tune ups to crate engines.

I am looking for input/suggestions on buying hardware to improve a '78 L-48 engine. The intent is to get an engine with a nice 'seat of the pants' feel (about 400 hp) that looks very much like the original engine (so no crate engines, etc).

Here is what I am thinking so far:

Edelbrock top end kit
Magnaflow dual exhaust
(Brand?) headers
Wilwood aluminum calipers/sport rotors (need to do MC as well?)
TKO 500 manual transmission (currently automatic)
Refigure rear differential


Does anyone have input/suggestions for better equipment or thoughts on what else needs to be purchased/retooled?

This is a long term plan (5+ years) so things will be added as we go - starting with brakes this summer. I tried to overhaul the originals only to see they were garbage.

 

So right off the bat; a crate engine will not look significantly different from what you have planned. IMO - if you want to preserve the value of your car, put a second motor into it. Bag the original motor in the original configuration. Sure, your car will have the original block in it but by most people's standards with all that stuff you've tacked on top it's NOT original. Not to mention, you'll be running the engine and could potentially destroy it. Not the case if it's sitting in a bag.

Secondly, how many miles does your original engine have? If it's due for a rebuild anyways - you should go with a second motor for the reasons above. You may have to spend $1500-2000 more for the short block components, but you could build a lot more reliability and power into the setup. The Edelbrock top end packs are OK. Continuing on the previous point, though, the most visible parts of your engine will have changed if you go with the Edelbrock kit, so... what's the point of avoiding a crate?

I'm not convinced you *need* the brakes. The stock brakes are quite good when in good shape; and getting them to good shape will be a lot cheaper than buying the Wilwood kit. I've yet to find my 78 wanting for brakes.

FWIW, here's my 78 running a ZZ4 intake, AFR heads:


If I'd stuck with blue stamped steel valve covers and painted the intake blue... (and no MSD... )

 

I agree with everything Shark racer said. Put the ZZ4 in it.

You can't beat this for under $3700 shipped

http://paceperformance.com/i-5146074...ck-engine.html

you won't get close to 400hp with the Edelbrock top end kit using the L48 bottom end. It's more like 300hp

 

 

Thanks for the inputs so far. I guess I should just get the crate engine...any thoughts about originality will go out the window if I change anything...

There is a modified ZZ4 out there now:
Fast Burn 385 - has anyone heard anything about this? Reliable, durable, performance, compatibility, etc?

Notice that thats the Turn-Key price. Would it be ok to keep original carb, air cleaner etc?

Also, where do you get a ZZ4 for 3700 shipped?!

 

Another idea is the ZZ4 short block and add the edelbrock top end?

The short block goes for just over 2K, that'll get you my motor basically which gets 0-60 in around 4.5 seconds.

My 2 cents

Use a 64cc heads, roller rockers, ali flywheel etc

I also have the Tremec, a 600RR and that really helps the car get into it's power band quickly, I just use a stock Sachs clutch.

+ you can sell your engine

 

400hp is not original. The original L-48 is not 400hp. You are between the proverbial rock and a hard spot.

 

Going crate motor is "easily" reversible.

Switching to the TKO may not be. There's some drilling and cutting there, but it can be hidden if you do want to return it to original.

It can still *look* quite original though.

If one is going to start mixing and matching components, I wouldn't bother with a loaded ZZ4 short block... I'd go 383, get pistons to get to the best possible quench, etc.

 

I would
1. Rebuild factory brake system
2 Install TKO 600
3 Rebuild rear end with 3.73 gearset
4. Install

http://www.ultrastreet.net/engines/540_realstreet.php

Don't worry about "original" It is a 78

 

That'd be a real monster!

 

Lol - Im not sure that would fit under the hood - and I definitely dont want to do any cutting there.

As for the TKO - I was under the impression it would kinda just slide into place - in fact thats the big selling point isn't it? People work to get a T-56 in place, but it would be a real bummer to have to chop up the underside to get the trans in...and Lord knows the 3 speed automatic just ain't gonna cut it....

Price is always a factor - so an installed engine for less than 5k would be nice.

 

You could easily melt the tires off your car with just dual exhaust, cam, intake, distributor and compression upgrade.

Oh yea, and a shift kit.

No need to blow the bank.

 

76 L48 here,my list was brakes first:O ring calipers.Steering:Borgeson box.
Transmission:6spd Richmond practically a bolt in with a G-Force cross-member ,and you use the same drive-shaft as the TH350 auto.Trans works very well with the 3.08 rear gear.this was the best upgrade to the 76,it's so much more fun to drive! My engine upgrades are a Crane 119821 billet roller cam,Edelbrock heads,Air Gap manifold,Summit 600cfm carb,aluminum radiator.Bumped up the compression with FelPro 1094 head gaskets and the roller cam.Compression tests showed the engine in good shape so I just did the add ons instead of a complete motor replacement.Upgrades really woke up the motor and I will run it like this until it dies.

 

Swapping a 78 from auto to manual will require a different x-member or welding on a relocation bracket to your current x-member.

You will need to cut the floor pan and drill the firewall to mount either mechanical or hydraulic clutch linkage.

If you're planning on going hydraulic for the clutch linkage, you may as well go T56; there's not a whole lot more cutting you won't already be doing for the TKO.

I have the TKO in mine, did this exact swap.

 

That's kinda funny as I was in the middle of doing a brake overhaul and found that my original caliper pistons were pitted pretty badly - which is resulting in O-ring calipers as well.

Just curious though - why the steering change?

 

Much quicker steering, more like 12-1 instead of 16-1.....IF you have more modern wheels/tires you will appreciate it even more.....