Headlight housing adjustment.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 2,056
Likes: 8
From: Redruth Cornwall
Headlight housing adjustment.
Ive just watched the Willcox video on how to adjust the headlight housing ( Thanks Ernie! ) but just want to make sure I have it right.
My issues are.....
Both headlights need to raise higher when opened. It was a real pain to remove the headlight bezels and trying to refit is going to scratch the paint as is.
The Passenger light needs to close slightly lower.
The drivers light has side to side movement.
The drivers side light needs to go down further when closed and the gap at the front ( height wise ) is about 1/4 greater on the outer side.
Do the adjustments have to be made in a certain order? It looks like you use the 3 bolts on each side first to move the headlight forward, backward up or down.
I was going to see if I could get any adjustment with the lights closed using the 6 bolts, move the spacers on the drivers side to sort out the side to side movement then move on to the up/down stops.
Do I need to adjust the clevis?
Also, at about 6.48 in the video, Ernie touches on if the lights arent coming all the way up, if you dont think you have full actuator travel, to adjust the center bracket.
Im confused as to whether I need to look at this or if I can just use the up and down stops?
All tips appreciated.
My issues are.....
Both headlights need to raise higher when opened. It was a real pain to remove the headlight bezels and trying to refit is going to scratch the paint as is.
The Passenger light needs to close slightly lower.
The drivers light has side to side movement.
The drivers side light needs to go down further when closed and the gap at the front ( height wise ) is about 1/4 greater on the outer side.
Do the adjustments have to be made in a certain order? It looks like you use the 3 bolts on each side first to move the headlight forward, backward up or down.
I was going to see if I could get any adjustment with the lights closed using the 6 bolts, move the spacers on the drivers side to sort out the side to side movement then move on to the up/down stops.
Do I need to adjust the clevis?
Also, at about 6.48 in the video, Ernie touches on if the lights arent coming all the way up, if you dont think you have full actuator travel, to adjust the center bracket.
Im confused as to whether I need to look at this or if I can just use the up and down stops?
All tips appreciated.
Last edited by jotto; Apr 20, 2013 at 11:41 AM.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,269
Likes: 4,362
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi J,
Setting the open and closed position uses the open 'stop', and the 'closed' stop. (2 different 'stops').
You FIRST need too turn those stops all the way in and out so you can determine that the actuator rod/clevis is in fact moving the door far enough open and and far enough closed for you to set the open and closed positions you want to achieve with the stops.
You need to make sure that the 'open' stop is set to allow the door to open fully and 'lock' in the open position. If this isn't done the headlights will bounce as you drive, because the mechanism isn't 'locked'.
You're right that the the 3 bolts on each the bearings, and the stops on the bearing rods are used to set the door gaps in the closed position.
I do the first adjustments with the hoses off the actuators and the mechanism springs removed since that makes it easier to move the doors open and closed to see what progress you're making as you set the stops.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan
Setting the open and closed position uses the open 'stop', and the 'closed' stop. (2 different 'stops').
You FIRST need too turn those stops all the way in and out so you can determine that the actuator rod/clevis is in fact moving the door far enough open and and far enough closed for you to set the open and closed positions you want to achieve with the stops.
You need to make sure that the 'open' stop is set to allow the door to open fully and 'lock' in the open position. If this isn't done the headlights will bounce as you drive, because the mechanism isn't 'locked'.
You're right that the the 3 bolts on each the bearings, and the stops on the bearing rods are used to set the door gaps in the closed position.
I do the first adjustments with the hoses off the actuators and the mechanism springs removed since that makes it easier to move the doors open and closed to see what progress you're making as you set the stops.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 2,056
Likes: 8
From: Redruth Cornwall
Hi J,
Setting the open and closed position uses the open 'stop', and the 'closed' stop. (2 different 'stops').
You FIRST need too turn those stops all the way in and out so you can determine that the actuator rod/clevis is in fact moving the door far enough open and and far enough closed for you to set the open and closed positions you want to achieve with the stops.
You need to make sure that the 'open' stop is set to allow the door to open fully and 'lock' in the open position. If this isn't done the headlights will bounce as you drive, because the mechanism isn't 'locked'.
You're right that the the 3 bolts on each the bearings, and the stops on the bearing rods are used to set the door gaps in the closed position.
I do the first adjustments with the hoses off the actuators and the mechanism springs removed since that makes it easier to move the doors open and closed to see what progress you're making as you set the stops.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan
Setting the open and closed position uses the open 'stop', and the 'closed' stop. (2 different 'stops').
You FIRST need too turn those stops all the way in and out so you can determine that the actuator rod/clevis is in fact moving the door far enough open and and far enough closed for you to set the open and closed positions you want to achieve with the stops.
You need to make sure that the 'open' stop is set to allow the door to open fully and 'lock' in the open position. If this isn't done the headlights will bounce as you drive, because the mechanism isn't 'locked'.
You're right that the the 3 bolts on each the bearings, and the stops on the bearing rods are used to set the door gaps in the closed position.
I do the first adjustments with the hoses off the actuators and the mechanism springs removed since that makes it easier to move the doors open and closed to see what progress you're making as you set the stops.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan
Thanks Alan.
Will check it out and see whats happening. Both doors lock in the open postion.
When looking around her earlier, I couldnt find a stop on either of the two outer up stop brackets.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 2,056
Likes: 8
From: Redruth Cornwall
This means that although the lights could do with raising a little more, they are actually going as far as they physically can.
