im thinkin of headers...
my vette is a daily driver and i dont race it...
it has the stock 350 in it with the exception of 305 heads...
but im goin to duals and i figure headers is a natural choice while doing this

i need recomendations etc from you that have "been there, done that"
i dont want crappy ones and i probably cant afford the ultimate either...
just really good, well built headers for the money...
whats the deal with ceramic??
what about short vs long??
thanx

 

Whatever header brand you end up with make sure that it's the long tube style. Shorty headers do not add much performance over stock manifolds. It's sort of like getting all of the problems and none of the benefits.

 

Hmmm . . . don't want to start an arguement here, but John Lingenfelter has indicated his preferrence for 'shorty' headers in some applications.

 

As we have seen before everyone has their own opinion. I used the ceramic coated Hookers and mounted them with a stainless exhust stud kit from summit. The fit was excellent and I have had no problems with bolts coming lose. Yes you pay for the name and coating but in the long run it`s worth the cost. :chevy

 

I'd say dont worry about headers until you swap out those heads.

 

what kind of $ am i looking at for say, ceramic hookers?
also...what are the negitives of headers compared to stock manifolds?

 

IMO, there is little to choose from between headers Mfgr wise, it's the overall construction and routing details that count for far more....
being able to get the plugs in and out without breaking them or you....
keeping the collectors away from oil filter and starter.....
no interferrance with steering components, especially if you contemplate a rack and pinion conversion, this can get sticky...
the header flange should be totally smooth on the block side and at least 3/8 inch thick steel, anything less will warp from bolts clamping and leak like hell...
collectors no larger than 3.5 inch...useless above that, especially going into a near stock exhaust pipe....
BTW, I coat my header bolts, like all others, with RTV upon install, that stops them from gaulling, and having to retighten every week....works for me...sort of a ready source of anti-seize....

GENE

 

 

I've had the ceramic coated Hookers on my 80 for six years now and the coating at the exhaust port still looks great. The collectors are starting to rust,but I drve the car year round to the tune of 20,000 miles/year. The fit is perfect,plug access is easy (straight plug heads) and I've had the delightful opertunity to remove them several times for engine/trans replacement. I use stainless bolts and the headers practically fall off the car once the bolts are out.
As for short vs. long,here goes. The reason headers "make" horsepower is the fact they create what is called column inertia. This is a phenominon that occurs when the exhaust gasses exit the collectors. It seems this flow actually scavanges residual exhaust from the cylinders that still have the exhaust valves open,and is in short,sucking the cylinders clean. The best headers for the street have small primaries and moderately sized collecters.Just as a smaller carb will give crisper throttle responce,smaller primary headers can scavange better in the street rpms than larger ones. The longer the primary, the more mass is moving at once,and thus the more positive effect the column of gas will have on the cylinders. Shorty headers do not provide enough volume to be of any benefit to this,and from what I've seen of the design,lend themselves well to burnt plug wires.
If you want power,stick with small primary,long tube headers and a free flowing dual exhaust.


[Modified by The Money Pit, 7:03 PM 6/21/2002]

 

well...that is very informative...thanx a lot!
what model Hookers is what you speak of? do you have a link to, perhaps a Summit page for such a set?

and also to those of you that say "do the heads 1st"
what do you recomend swapping to?
arnt i opening a can of worms when i do heads?
like cam, lifters etc?

i mean, as we all know, once you head down one of those roads...before you know it, youve rebuilt you entire engine! :)
i was simply thinking of bolting some headers on...know what i mean?
whataya think?

thanx to all...SG

 

You want full length. You can afford excellent ones- Dynomax coated about $200. Good time to do the headers w/ ex.!
You do not have to do the heads first. Some like Summit sold 350 engines w/ 305 heads (The idea was higher velocity) & 300 up HP.

 

what size pipe should i run back to my Flowmasters?
im not sure what size they are going in...i just had them put on my stock exhaust...
thanx

 

A couple of other thoughts:
1. Headers will add significant heat to the engine bay
2. Buy headers with heavier gauge tubes - heavier gauge tubes have lower numbers. 14 gauge are heavier than 16 gauge. Since header failure is generally from deterioration due to heat cycles, heavier tubes will last longer.
3. Transition is important - a 4 to 2 to 1 collector is mo betta than a 4 to 1 collector.
4. 2.5" mandrel bend pipes seem to compliment good headers
5. X crossover work better than H crossovers
6. thermal wrap accelerates header failure

 

I second the recommnedation for Dynomax ceramacoated headers. Sounds like just what you are looking for. Summit/Jegs will have them for $210, the Coated Hookers are Much more $$$. The Hookers are more than you will ever need from what you say about your driving style, the 1 5/8 primaries of the dynomax should definately be enough for you in the future.
You may not notice a big difference in your power right away, but as you mod your engine it will really help performance.
I say go for the Dynomax---I am very happy with mine and they really let my healthy engine breathe.
While you are at it, get Stage 8 locking Header bolts and good copper/aluminum header gaskets.---You will be happy you did.

 

I went with Hedman headers, becuase the Dyomax were back ordered. The cost was around $100.00 but within a year I got surface rust on them.

Truly regret not getting the coated ones. :cry

 

Ive got he Hooker comps... then had them thermal coated inside and out...cost of headers 125.00...cost of coating 165.00 (inside and outside)...


[Modified by Regg, 3:01 PM 6/22/2002]

 

flynhi, for the life of me I can't see where that old wives' tale of headers increasing engine compartment heat came from....
then the car is moving, it's all the same, when car is idleing at a light, the fan keeps air moving....
but when the car is just parked, cast iron headers are about glowing orange, with NO air circulation under the hood, and those heavy iron anchors will hold that extreme temperature forever....headers will cool very rapidly as there is no mass to them....

I think the extra heat loss from headers while driving, IF ANY, is of no consequence....

GENE

 

stainlessworks.net

not sure if they are avalible for SB vettes





[Modified by garagedweller2, 1:08 AM 6/23/2002]