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Hey all, some of you may remember my earlier thread about my car not wanting to idle. Welll it runs now... More or less. It's been running rodiculously rich though to the point where sitting at a light requires holding the gas down half way down in neutral. I decided to check down the float vent hole and it's submerged in gas. I thought i had it dialed in when i rebuilt the carb but apperently i set it wrong. Is there any particular way it should be done? Also how do i know when the float is in poisition to measure? Finally what would the measurement be on an all stock carb and engine?
If the float is covered with gasoline it has either sunk or there is something stuck in the fuel inlet needle and seat.
Remove the top of the carburetor and make sure the fuel inlet is clean. Make sure the needle hanger is properly positioned. Check to see if the float is full of gasoline. If it is you will need a new float.
When i put it together about a week ago it was all clean but i'll take the air horn off again and see. I did buy a new float from napa today so i can eliminate that although i put tested the first float and it seemed fine. Also for hanging the needle, it just goes laying on top of the float on the cresecent moon shape sorta closer to the float bowl right? I've heard that it can be put in without the hanger anyone hear this as well?
It is possible for the needle to stick in the seat. Always use the hanger.
The float hanger should be placed on the side of the ledge that faces the float bulb.
To set the float level, assemble the float in the correct manner, then while gently holding the needle end of the float down in the seat, measure the float level from the carburetor body gasket surface to the flat upper surface of the float bulb. Take this measurement all the way out at the end of the float bulb toward the secondaries.
It is possible for the needle to stick in the seat. Always use the hanger.
The float hanger should be placed on the side of the ledge that faces the float bulb.
To set the float level, assemble the float in the correct manner, then while gently holding the needle end of the float down in the seat, measure the float level from the carburetor body gasket surface to the flat upper surface of the float bulb. Take this measurement all the way out at the end of the float bulb toward the secondaries.
BigBlockk
Later.....
Thanks for the advice. All these little things don't come across too well when rebuilding using youtube.
Also it seems I pushed my luck too far tonight. The car refused to start in the autozone parking lot. I pulled the air cleaner and watched fuel pour out of the float vent vole. So I'm going to guess either I set the float wayyy wrong causing it to sink or something got stuck in the seat. On a side note I bought a nitrophyl float from NAPA but I noticed they also had a brass float available. I was wondering what you guys think is the better option.
I ripped into it today and i noticed a few things this time around that i hadnt noticed before. First the float had a small gouge in it so that a problem. Then i found some crap laying in the bottom of the seat. Great. AND the hanger for the secondary metering rods was bent. Well, at least i know why i was getting such crazy bog opening up the secondaries.
I ripped into it today and i noticed a few things this time around that i hadnt noticed before. First the float had a small gouge in it so that a problem. Then i found some crap laying in the bottom of the seat. Great. AND the hanger for the secondary metering rods was bent. Well, at least i know why i was getting such crazy bog opening up the secondaries.
Email Lars at V8fastcars@msn.com for his Q-Jet tuning paper, it will help you immensely!
Every quadrajet I've worked on has had the secondary air valve tension under half a turn. And they're all going on stock, not particularly large displacement motors. Scary!