Any ideas on how much a total engine rebuild can run for a 72 small block? Thanks for the help.

 

that's a hard one to answer correctly
we do a basic rebuild at the dealer from 800 on up (easy to go over 3k btw)
really depends on what you are wanting and what the condition of the engine is.
also if you want oe parts or reman all old parts or performance parts...
find a engine builder you know and trust(ask a friend) or if you will do it yourself call jegs or summit....

 

Somebody is going to say up to 15,000.00 depending on how much you want to spend and what kind of rebuild you want ( there I said it). But in reality, you do need to be more specific on what kind of rebuild you want. Aluminum heads, cam etc. Good luck
Bill

 

Ok...it's a numbers matching engine so I want to stay as close to original as possible.

Rebuild the heads...upgrade cam and go close to stock on the rest. I have someone looking at it now..but I really don't know what too expect. The cam was a complete mess and the project has continued to grow.

 

the only correct answer for you would be find someone you trust and have them fix it.

if you have a budget tell them what you can spend. to rebuild an engine all numbers matching and original as possible can be very expensive sometimes. upgrade cam is cheap. rebuild heads , cheap....
just a basic rebuild isn't much. not that big of a deal.

you have to watch out for shops that keep "finding additional problems" I can understand a oppppps I didn't catch that but too much shows inexperience.
once you tear down an engine and do measurements, you should know EXACTLY what will be needed to rebuild or repair an engine.

if you don't feel comfortable with the answers you are getting from your "mechanic, or shop" find someone else.

engines can nickel and dime you to death.......
the project shouldn't "continue to grow." unless you are adding stuff to it.....
you have a block, rotating assembly, heads, intake, valve train, fuel induction and ignition system that's it....

cam a complete mess? did it brake? did a lobe crack? did it lock up ? no matter what its the same repair....
remove it, replace bearings and replace the cam. the only additional items are if you need the engine line bored, or if the block is damaged you will already be replacing the lifters and timing chain..........

 

Just got mine on the road after a similar rebuild to what you want to do. I did all the wrenching myself, but sent the stock heads out to be rebuilt with new valve guides, springs, and seats cut, plus new exhaust valves and retainers (ditched the rotator retainers). Bought a Northern Auto Parts engine kit and had it shipped here for under $400. (I'm in New Zealand). Had the crank shaft ground and rotating assembly balanced. The balancing caught me out, as it was really bad, and needed a lot of heavy metal. I had a friend bore the block for me (saved about $450 there). So all up it came to under NZ$3000, which would be about $2500 in your dollars. Have a look at Northern Auto Part's website. They seem quite good value for money, to the point where it's cheaper for me to source from the USA than locally!

 

Small block Chevy should be the cheapest thing to rebuild out there.
machine work is what cost the most.
I also have bought several Northern Auto parts rebuild kit, they can be a basic kit all they way up to including the cam.

 

Last small block I rebuilt was out of a 96 SS Impala, spun main bearing. I had over $3000 in machine work, replacement crank etc. I think I ended up with close to $4000 total with me doing everything except the machine work. Bad thing was after I got it all together had to pull the heads off so I could re-lap the valves that were leaking... the machine shop was supposed to be the best in the area....
No set answer for this question, you should have a good idea once it is completely apart and you see what all is needed.

 

Hi C3,
You mention the 'numbers'.
You have to be VERY CAREFUL that the the machine shop and the person at the shop doing the work understands that the cylinder case is NOT to be decked.
Once the stamped information is gone, it's gone!
Regards,
Alan

 

Thanks for all the replies...greatly appreciated. The engine is apart and is at the machine shop. My main concern is this spiraling out of control...And from what everyone is telling me it should not get stupid..which is my main concern.

 

That would depend on what you are authorizing the shop to do. Do not allow them to deck the block.

 

Crate engine in, numbers matching engine in the corner of the garage.....unless this is a rebuild for judging. Cost under $2500

 

This is where forums like this one can really be useful/ helpful, but you have to LISTEN to what people are telling you...

When having a machine shop do everything for you, you need to ask certain questions going in, and you also need to let them know certain things up front, before they begin disassembling the engine-

Let them know if you want to be informed immediately about whatever defects are discovered during the disassembly process, or if you want them to just go ahead and fix stuff as they discover it (my guess is in this case you want to know everything up front). That would mean that you want to know:

1)Is the block cracked, does it need boring, and does it need align honing or decking? If the decks are .001" out of tolerance and you want them left alone (a safe bet, BTW) tell them up front.
2)Can the pistons be reused? If it's a standard bore block,i.e., doesn't need reboring, why not? If they do need replacing, what kind of pistons do you want to spring for (cast=cheap, forged= not so cheap)
3)What kind of shape is the crank in? Does it need to be ground undersize or can it be left alone or just polished?
4)How about the heads? Are they cracked? Can the guides be left alone or do they need replacement? How are the valve seats? Can they just be reground or do the heads need to be cut and new seats installed? Are the valves in good enough condition to reuse or do they need replacing? Are the springs OK?
5) Do you want the rotating assembly balanced?

Hopefully you can see by now that a "rebuild" can entail anything from (a)Disassemble/clean/you reassemble it with new rings, bearings, and gaskets (minimal cost) to (b)Disassemble/clean/magnaflux everything/ grind the crank/bore-hone-fit new forged pistons/ replace sixteen valves/new valve seats/ balance everything and THEY reassemble it (maximum cost). (a)will typically run you $800-$1000, (b)can spiral up to and over $5000 very easily...

Like any other business, a machine shop makes more money by selling you more stuff, so they're gonna be inclined to paint the blackest possible picture as to the condition of the motor as you brought it to them. It's up to you to ask specific questions as to the incoming condition of each component and to put them on the spot as to why they recommend replacement. Many times it's a judgement call- do you really want to cut a crankshaft -.010" on a car that's not going to be driven hard and will only likely be driven a couple thousand miles a year at the most? Older Chevy engines typically skirt the fringes on adherence to their own engineered tolerances to begin with, and if that's good enough for OE, why mess with it?

I've said this to a dozen other guys here as well...get yourself a copy of "How to Rebuild Your Small Block Chevy" by David Vizard, about $20-$25 and worth every penny. The best reference book on the subject, period. It will have all the applicable specs needed so you can arm yourself with information.

Hope this helps, and good luck with your project!

 

Thank you for all of your advice. I've advised the shop to keep me in the loop on the entire project....and I kinda show up out of the blue now and again. They probably hate me for it...but it is my engine and my money.

Thanks again for the advice..it is much appreciated. Hopefully I will be on the road by mid May

 

Hopefully, if they're decent people (a diminishing commodity it seems these days) they won't be too bothered by your snooping, and in the end you'll get what you're paying for. I have had problems in the past though when I didn't clearly tell my machinist EXACTLY what it was that I wanted, and he gave me something else instead...

One of the best things about my mistakes is that sometimes other people get to learn from them...

 

[QUOTE=birdsmith;1583777255]
I've said this to a dozen other guys here as well...get yourself a copy of "How to Rebuild Your Small Block Chevy" by David Vizard, about $20-$25 and worth every penny. The best reference book on the subject, period. It will have all the applicable specs needed so you can arm yourself with information.

QUOTE]

 

So what do you do for an $800.00 rebuild , just asking ?

Bill

 

800 basic labor if someone brings there own parts
normally just re ring and reassemble with new gaskets