77 vette
Thread Starter
3rd Gear
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
77 vette
Good Morning all, I have always wanted the 68 vette but could not afford one so I recently bought a 77 vette for 5k and the lad I my town told me all it needed was a brake cable and some small stuff. Well as I try to safety it I find out frame is rusted and twisted, my options to try to get it welded or do a body off frame restore, My first question has anyone welded frames before and will it last, the most flexing is coming from front left side were the steering power assistance device is bolted to frame. next question is my headlight switch smokes when I turn it on is it just the switch is faulty or is it something else? I am a new vette owner and I do love the car but I see a 1000 to 2k for a new frame, and if I get someone to do it prob another 2 to 3 k, that brings me close to 10k (bought for 5k) or is it something I can do myself? I am mechanicaly inclined but not a mechanic. Thanks and any info someone can give would be app
Intermediate
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
From: Fowlerville Mi.
You will have enough in this '77 in time to have bought a '68, even doing the labor yourself, parts and hours add up fast. nothing bad about a '77, hell I have one, but I would try to do as BK suggest, as there will shurly be more to this story than just the frame (which is huge in it's self).
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 5,380
Likes: 415
From: N J
77's are great cars, but the lad would have some explaining to do. If its that bad, forget a repair, I would want a total refund also. Lots of sections of frame peices are reproduced, and installed correctly they will make the repair as good as new, but unless you or a buddy can do all the repair work on the car, your 5k 77 will quickly snowball into several times that amount. Its just not worth it. Good luck.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 2,709
Likes: 3
From: Savannah GA
If your locale requires a safety inspection and "sticker" you may be in luck as it is generally illegal to sell a car which will not pass inspection as a car; not as parts. That should make it easier to get your money back. If no inspection required, I hope you can convince the lad it is in his best interest to refund your funds. Good luck!
Advanced
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 69
Likes: 0
From: DSM Iowa
As the guys here mentioned..I have a 76 that I knew needed a lot of little things I could do myself...I've put 3k in the last 8 months (still a ways to go), just for the little things!! That's all parts and no labor...It adds up fast..
That being said kindly tell the young lad that "caveat emptor" statement ( let the buyer be ware) unless you signed some as is contract..
It sounds like frame, wiring...that likely will snow ball into more and larger issues/replacement parts...
Good Luck and take someone with you as a witness..and or protection (hope not).
J
That being said kindly tell the young lad that "caveat emptor" statement ( let the buyer be ware) unless you signed some as is contract..
It sounds like frame, wiring...that likely will snow ball into more and larger issues/replacement parts...
Good Luck and take someone with you as a witness..and or protection (hope not).
J
Thread Starter
3rd Gear
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
money Back
I did email the lad back who sold me the car, He is a mechanic by the way and he said there was no way he was giving me my money back and I only asked for half to help for repairs, he told me that he had no idea that the frame was rusted I found that kinda of strange because he had the car for 10yrs and had done engine work to it. So I am stuck with it I guess. I will drive it until it breaks totally. I have put it up for sale and I will take a loss as I said the frame was rusted but still a lot of good parts in there to use. I am going to get a second opinion on the frame being welded, I am not driving it everyday so even if he can put a stiffener bar across the front somewere just to keep it tight would work for now, I will post pics on here and keep all you guys n girls posted and Thanks for all the responses, Thanks John
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 2,091
Likes: 40
unless you love rebuilding, don't care if it takes years to fix the car , or its the love of your life sounds like that car is a junker to me.
other people mention, by the time you get it drivable you can buy a really nice car from an estate sale, for pennies on the dollar, where somebody else had it garaged and spent all the money to maintain it.
you have to be careful, take someone knowledgeable along when you shop.
I've seen people want say10K for a ratty old 77 vette, then you see a nice old fellow unloading his prize 77 for 12K that was well maintained and cared for.
when buying muscle cars.....patience is your best friend
other people mention, by the time you get it drivable you can buy a really nice car from an estate sale, for pennies on the dollar, where somebody else had it garaged and spent all the money to maintain it.
you have to be careful, take someone knowledgeable along when you shop.
I've seen people want say10K for a ratty old 77 vette, then you see a nice old fellow unloading his prize 77 for 12K that was well maintained and cared for.
when buying muscle cars.....patience is your best friend
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 173
Likes: 0
From: Avon Park FL
If it was me I would get another frame and rebuild if you are mechanicaly incline.These vettes are not any harder to work on than any other car. Don't get caught up with its a vette so it must be hard.
Yes you will spend money and no you won't get your money back with this rebuild or any rebuild. Some will say you have to count your labor well maybe if you count your labor doing home repair or yard work. Your best friend is this fourm and a GM tech that works on the side that can do transmission and rear end rebuild. Had my trans rebuild for 200 and rear end for a 100 by a GM tech that work on the side. I did not have a clue when I did my rebuild got most info from this fourm. I can send you pics of my rebuild if you like send me your email. Just my opinion. Just remember what ever you do someone can do better or cheaper or they say.
Yes you will spend money and no you won't get your money back with this rebuild or any rebuild. Some will say you have to count your labor well maybe if you count your labor doing home repair or yard work. Your best friend is this fourm and a GM tech that works on the side that can do transmission and rear end rebuild. Had my trans rebuild for 200 and rear end for a 100 by a GM tech that work on the side. I did not have a clue when I did my rebuild got most info from this fourm. I can send you pics of my rebuild if you like send me your email. Just my opinion. Just remember what ever you do someone can do better or cheaper or they say.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 6,397
Likes: 649
From: Saskatoon Saskatchewan
Whether you put a frame in it or sell it for what you can get you are going to lose money. I'm inclined to agree with the others who said if you try to restore it you'll put more into it than it would cost to buy a reasonable 68 that you'd prefer. I say sell it and take the loss (it won't be that huge and save up some more for a car you really want. Its possible to find a 68 project car for $5-7k that isn't too rusty but needs paint, interior and mechanicals. If you get something like that you can build it as money becomes available and eventually you'll have a nice version of what you wanted in the first place.
Pro
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 523
Likes: 4
From: Calgary Alberta
Good Morning all, I have always wanted the 68 vette but could not afford one so I recently bought a 77 vette for 5k and the lad I my town told me all it needed was a brake cable and some small stuff. Well as I try to safety it I find out frame is rusted and twisted, my options to try to get it welded or do a body off frame restore, My first question has anyone welded frames before and will it last, the most flexing is coming from front left side were the steering power assistance device is bolted to frame. next question is my headlight switch smokes when I turn it on is it just the switch is faulty or is it something else? I am a new vette owner and I do love the car but I see a 1000 to 2k for a new frame, and if I get someone to do it prob another 2 to 3 k, that brings me close to 10k (bought for 5k) or is it something I can do myself? I am mechanicaly inclined but not a mechanic. Thanks and any info someone can give would be app
Case in point, I recently was checking around for a price for a paint job. The first quote I received was $15,000. That is never going to happen as my car even with a fresh paint job might be worth $15,000 in total. I will keep checking for a more reasonable price.
So back to your car, another option is to look for a mid 70's vette body and good frame. The drive train work and interior swap should not be as bad as removing the frame from the body and all the other work required to replace the frame. I think if you look around you probably will be able to find a complete body and frame less engine and tranny for probably $2000 to $4000 or less.
I think it might be economical to go this route. JMHO.
Thread Starter
3rd Gear
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Thanks for all the info, I was able to get a bar welded across the front end to keep her tight and strait, I know its a quick fix but at least I can get it saftied and drive it, Now I have a problem with smoke coming from my light switch when I pull it out only is this just the switch itself, or something else major Thanks all oh ya I will get some pics and post thanks
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 7,411
Likes: 1,549
From: mount holly NC
2025 c3 ('74-'82) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2019 C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods)
You can jumper from the "Courtesy light fuse" to the "Instrument light fuse", if the bulbs light up and no smoke then the rheostat is bad and problem solved.
If you still get smoke then disconnect the battery and pull the dash and see where the problem is.
http://www.vetteprojects.com/bmv/mis...tte%201977.pdf