Been looking to no avail.One more try before I give up scrap this bucket.

Can anyone tell me the bearing cap torque and ring gear bolt torque for a 1980/82 Corvette Dana?
If you can then your one up on Chiltons,Haynes,and the Spicer/Dana corp..
If you don't mind, I would appreciate all the specs concerning rebuilding one of these units so I can compare them to the data I already have.

All the info I have found over the last two weeks is either for 79 and earlier,or 84 and later.It's like there's a giant hole on info for 80 to 82 units.I have now 3 inquiries here on this forum alone,and many more in other forums.Have yet to receive an answer.Would be nice to find one person that will tell me what I want to know.That's what forums are for ,or at least that's what I thought.

And please refrain from smart *** comments,and don't bother telling me to look in my AIM.I don't have one for 80 to 82.In fact, all I have for 80 to 82 is the diff itself.The vehicle is actually a 79 with a dana.

If it sounds like I'm some what "Kinked" right about now,it's because I am.I need tech inspection this month,and it won't pass with a leaky diff..Other options are turning my historical tags in and cancelling insurance.

 

The torque values you want will not be in the AIM. Differentials arrived at the plant already assembled.

 

drivetrain.com is your friend

SPECIFICATIONS
Ring Gear Diameter 8.5"
10 3/8" X 24 RH Threaded Bolts
PINION Diameter 1.376", 26 Spline
CASE: 3.73 & Down, 3.92 Numerically Higher

8620 Material Heat-Treated

19 Spline Rear Axles on Jeep to 1970

30 Spline Front & Rear Axles

Assembly Specifications:

Cover Bolt Ft. Lbs. 30-40
Pinion Nut Ft. Lbs. 200-220
Ring Gear Backlash .005-.008
Ring Gear Bolt to case Ft. Lbs. 45-60
Side Brg. Caps Ft. Lbs. 70-90

 

Thanks. Are these specs for an Dana 44? My info shows the pinion yoke nut with no torque,only bearing preload of 20 25 inch lbs.I thought only the Eatons with a crush sleeve were torqued to achieve the proper pinion depth. And the side bearing cap torques look very high for an aluminum housing.
I've believe I've read these same specs ,but they were for a straight axle Dana and not for IRS.Not complaining,just being cautious.

 

PM sent.

 

Yep, sorry - forgot to cut n paste that bit

I PM'd you the link.... it does say that the specs are for the Corvette housing...

 

O.K.
The deed is done.Got the diff pulled,case gutted,cleaned and the damage assessment looks like this.
This thing was repaired by Bubba at one time or the other.I know it was Bubba because he left his calling card.Looks like it ate a side yoke bearing in the past.Bearings were replaced,but no one bothered to remove the shrapnel old one left behind.I found pieces of the cage ,and 2 rollers, matching the ones in the side yoke bearings,up between the front and rear pinion bearings.Depth shims and pre load shims are badly chewed up and I don't think I can measure and match these.

Gears are pretty ,and not damaged,but a couple of ring gear bolts took a hit.The ones that came with my kit from Corvette Central don't match.And CC also sent me the wrong U joints.I got the big ones for manual,and need ones for an automatic.

I also found that there were shims behind the large pinion race.Is this normal?

During removal of the main caps the carrier just rolled out on the table.Not much pre load there.

The clutch packs seem to have a lot of slop.When I look at the retainers ,I seem to think there are discs missing.Or they're so worn down it seems so.

The center bolt is shot,and the side yokes are beveled off.

What I need now is a knowledgeable Corvette mechanic to help me with a "one stop shopping" mission for the following parts.

Ring gear bolts
Clutch packs
Side yokes (Both)
Center pin
Half shaft joints
Drive shaft joints
Front cushion

All for an 80 to 82 Dana 44 (Automatic).

The PITA involved with ordering parts to an overseas country,and then having the wrong parts,is what I would like to avoid.It's very costly and time consuming.From money and time I have neither .I need to talk with some one on the phone "real time" today or Sunday so I can get things hashed out and money transferred on monday , tuesday at the latest.

I don't want to be pushy,but time is of the essence.I only have till the end of the month to get to inspection, or chance loosing my historical tags.I will talk to the techs ,explain the problem and hope for an extension of a week or so before they report me.

Anyone interested just PM me a telephone number and I'll call you.
Since I still have family in Texas,I pay for an international flat rate telephone,whether I use it or not.

 

Oh Yeah I forgot.Who's big idea was it to to make the front yoke on the diff completely un-accesable ? Can't get to the drive shaft u-joint bolts with the diff in the car,and can barely access the front bracket bolt to drop the diff.cause the drive shaft is in the way

I've seen a lot of stupidity in automotive engineering,but this takes the prize.
Any remedy for this so I don't have to drop the diff or take the body off the frame just to replace the drive shaft u'joints in the future?

 

On my 70, I had to use several extensions to get to the diff yoke to pull the drive shaft. I agree it is kind of hard to get to.

 

Get Tracdogg2 on the phone. He's got the correct parts. One stop shopping. Send him a PM. And he's in Texas.

 

Tried last week on his normal email to no avail.I was thinking of calling Duntov,but unless I have a private number,won't nothing happen till monday.

 

So.Really sucking wind on this deal.Nobody can deliver me the left side yoke.Zip, Paragon ,Ecklers,and Corvette Central can only deliver the right side at horrifying shipping prices.

Would really be nice if some one would step up and give me a hand.

Anyone?

 

Hi R,
Try Bairs.
www.bairs.com
They specialize in chassis and running gear parts and service.
Regards,
Alan

 

Yeah .Just got off the phone with em.Everything I need is put aside till payment arrives.$130 cheaper than Zip to boot.

They also recondition the half shafts for the majority of the bigger vendors.Nice when you can cut out the middle man.Thanks is the best tip I got so far.

 

So I have another question.
My rear leaf spring looks like crap.Real scroungy with the aluminum inserts hanging out every where.
My idea is to open the center bolt,undo the 2 binders,clean/paint each leaf individually and reassemble with out the aluminum inserts. Or do I need the inserts for anything special?