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What would be the best for driving ? I'm looking for a steering system that is both tight and very responsive, holds center really well and has excellent returnability.
I'm a bit concerned about the rack conversion as I read that the brackets flex alot + I'm using a Canton kicked out RR pan, which I'm not sure will clear the rack.
I have done a few Borgeson conversions NEVER any problems. I was never too impressed with the multiple heim joints and multi-piece steering shafts of the rack conversions. Those brackets and offsets don't look very reliable to me but, what do I know.
One thing I know is I have over 10000 miles on a original "Jeep Box" kit from the now closed Corvette Steering Service (the owner Tom passed on a few years back RIP) This was the original intregal boost conversion and I'm still pleased with reliability and performance. Would love to hear from some high mileage rack usesr but think many of those cars are garage queens.
Search the forum for "steeriods problems" then do the same for "Borgeson or Jeep box problems" it should be easy to decide after that.
I have done a few Borgeson conversions NEVER any problems. I was never too impressed with the multiple heim joints and multi-piece steering shafts of the rack conversions. Those brackets and offsets don't look very reliable to me but, what do I know.
One thing I know is I have over 10000 miles on a original "Jeep Box" kit from the now closed Corvette Steering Service (the owner Tom passed on a few years back RIP) This was the original intregal boost conversion and I'm still pleased with reliability and performance. Would love to hear from some high mileage rack usesr but think many of those cars are garage queens.
Search the forum for "steeriods problems" then do the same for "Borgeson or Jeep box problems" it should be easy to decide after that.
I have the same idea about the multiple joints and shafts of the rack conversions.
Is the Borgeson box progressive with its power assistance ?
St. Jude Donor '05-'06,'11,'13-'14,'16,'18,'19,'24, '25
Its a guess but I would say that there are probably 30 rack conversions to 1 Borgeson box install.
Most of the rack installs are DIY and based on the Grand Am rack. A lot of the discussions on the Steeroids system were from when it first came out. I believe the issues have been addressed with the brackets.
If your running a BB with side-pipe headers than forget the Borgeson or be prepared to hack the headers.
Your concerned about the steering shaft but you have no concerns about the multiple rod ends, idler arm and center link.
Sounds as if you already have your mind made up on what system you want.
No the Borgeson is not progressive in boost but is a 12.7:1 ratio gear set this removes about 3/4 of a turn on your steering wheel full left to right turns. The steering boost or effort can be tuned by varying the orifice size in the power steering pump pressure fitting. Different size orifices can be bought from Lee power steering, Sweet steering or KRC components (I think Speedway Motors has them too.) I like my systems simple the intergal boost Saginaw box is a marvel. I think I answered your question.
I'm looking for a steering system that is both tight and very responsive, holds center really well and has excellent returnability.
Installed the Borgeson steering box in my '78 a year ago along with a rebuilt hydroboost from NAPA. Replaced the stock systems which had about 34,000 miles on each.
Steering is a slight bit lighter than stock, but I have not yet experimented with different orifices in the PS pump or with slightly increased toe-in. Even so, steering is pretty tight and very responsive with no wandering. It does hold center very well, and does have excellent returnability. I did set in the maximum amount of caster available in my very stock suspension. The Borgeson install was not difficult.
Its a guess but I would say that there are probably 30 rack conversions to 1 Borgeson box install.
Most of the rack installs are DIY and based on the Grand Am rack. A lot of the discussions on the Steeroids system were from when it first came out. I believe the issues have been addressed with the brackets.
If your running a BB with side-pipe headers than forget the Borgeson or be prepared to hack the headers.
Your concerned about the steering shaft but you have no concerns about the multiple rod ends, idler arm and center link.
Sounds as if you already have your mind made up on what system you want.
Neal
No, I have not made up my mind, but my I read about the brackets not being strong enough and have my doubts about the multiple joints and such in the system.
I know that with the stock system, the steering box puts the frame under a lot of load in the a location. I would therefor think it would need to really solid brackets to keep them from flexing.
When the rack systems first came out they created a significantly greater turning radius which can potentially be dangerous. Has this problem been fixed?
When the rack systems first came out they created a significantly greater turning radius which can potentially be dangerous. Has this problem been fixed?
How can a reduced turning radius be dangerous? You only use the full lock turning at low speed. Even with a reduced turning radius, it is still a short wheelbase car, they will turn around in a much smaller area than my Avalanche. Does that make my Avalanche dangerous?
I have done a few Borgeson conversions NEVER any problems. I was never too impressed with the multiple heim joints and multi-piece steering shafts of the rack conversions. Those brackets and offsets don't look very reliable to me but, what do I know.
One thing I know is I have over 10000 miles on a original "Jeep Box" kit from the now closed Corvette Steering Service (the owner Tom passed on a few years back RIP) This was the original intregal boost conversion and I'm still pleased with reliability and performance. Would love to hear from some high mileage rack usesr but think many of those cars are garage queens.
Search the forum for "steeriods problems" then do the same for "Borgeson or Jeep box problems" it should be easy to decide after that.
Oh man I had no idea that Tom had passed, he was a great guy . I did instructions for my install and sent them to him, and he liked them so much he sent me $200 in cash. I've had my Jeep box for years and thousands of miles with zero problems. Very easy to install too.
I have nothing against the R&P setup, but if I was going to do it all over I would go for the Borgeson box
If you mean that it takes very little effoert to rotate the steering wheel at low speeds and that the steering Wheel gets more "solid" at high speeds the answer is NO.
This function has nothing to do with the R&P and must be created in the power steering pump.
However it is possible to adjust the Vettes stock power steering pump pressure by changing out the pressure relief valve to get away from the old "Caddilac" feeling.
the 'steeroids'r&p steering will not have any clearance issues with a canton RR pan. the steering of the r&p as in comparison to manuel you loose the feel of the road, very easy to turn even when standing still [I even droped to a 14" steer wheel]. recommendation; don't let the passenger hold the steering wheel as you might end up in the next lane. the r&p steering is very quick. very nice on a RR track. I don't like OEM P/S, when I convert my 69 from OEM P/S I will go with the 'borgeson' as this car is a DD.
footnote; spirited driving described as numerous events of engine RPM exceeding 6000 the PS pump will separate into numerous pieces causing an instant oil leak that gets under the rear tires very quickly ie; spinout. the pumps redline is 6000, has a 6" pully, the crank has a 6" pully therefore they run at the same speed.
footnote; spirited driving described as numerous events of engine RPM exceeding 6000 the PS pump will separate into numerous pieces causing an instant oil leak that gets under the rear tires very quickly ie; spinout. the pumps redline is 6000, has a 6" pully, the crank has a 6" pully therefore they run at the same speed.
Really? That's news to me. I ran the factory LT-1 with a Canton racing 75-110 slighly smaller crank pulley for years to 7500 in drag racing/auto crossing and never had problems with my set up. H2O pump was regular LT-1 as was the deep groove cast iron steering pump pulley. I did swap out LT-1 alternator pulley for L-88 size pulley. Never lost a belt or suffered any problems with that setup.
I saw an electric power steering replcement colum that is speed sensitive .. should be easy to search on summit i think. I'm not shure how that would work with stock box or if has to be replaced... I think something like this may be the way to get speed sensitve boost.
Really? That's news to me. I ran the factory LT-1 with a Canton racing 75-110 slighly smaller crank pulley for years to 7500 in drag racing/auto crossing and never had problems with my set up. H2O pump was regular LT-1 as was the deep groove cast iron steering pump pulley. I did swap out LT-1 alternator pulley for L-88 size pulley. Never lost a belt or suffered any problems with that setup.
after the pump blew did some research and found out that info. maybe it was the pump that I had that just decided to fail, ya know 40+ year old pump and all. back when I twas a kid, yoused to spin them small blocks to 7000+ and never popped a pump. ya I've been wondering about the alt since the ps pump went.
The "returnability" of a steering system has a lot to do with the caster angle. Corvettes have an angle of about one degree, which was fine for the cross ply tyres that were available at the time. Modern cars that use radial tyres almost exclusively use a greater caster angle, somewhere from four to seven degrees in most cases.
Milling the holes in your upper A arm "cross rod" (can't think of the proper term) will allow you to position the upper A arm further to the rear and this will increase your caster angle. Check up on this from someone who has experience in this area.
I have a Borgeson in my '74 coupe and it drives like a new car. I can highly recommend it.
How can a reduced turning radius be dangerous? You only use the full lock turning at low speed. Even with a reduced turning radius, it is still a short wheelbase car, they will turn around in a much smaller area than my Avalanche. Does that make my Avalanche dangerous?
When your turning radius is shortened enough such that you can't make a u-turn on a four lane road, let's say at a major intersection, it can be very dangerous. Most of us avoid curbing like the plague. The C3 was not designed to use a rack. The problem of reduced minimum turning radius with a rack has been noted. It leads me to believe the rack doesn't allow any contact with the stops. While it may be comparing apples with oranges my C3 can always easily make a u-turn at a four-lane intersection whereas my C5 requires me to stop a foot over to the right of center before initiating the turn.