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I'm interested in swapping my manual fuel pump out for an electric one but I don't see any sites that have kits to do so. I would like to retain as much of the current fuel line as possible. I've done very extensive reading on the subject but most, if not all, of the info I find has been out of date enough where I can't look up links to worded any of the parts needed.
Mounting and wiring shouldn't be an issue, but buying the right pump and regulators needed are beyond my scope. I have a stock 74 and would keep the pump external and in place of the tire rack.
Can someone point me to where to buy the pump and accessories needed? Perhaps a link?
summit or any other can help you with what you need. it should be straightforward to install. you just need to splice into the fuel line and do the wiring and bypass the old pump
Cars with electric pumps are usually far from stock since a standard pump is fine fine for up to like 500 HP and the power draw is negligable on a mechanical one.
. I doubt there's a Kit to mount it on the engine since that's not an ideal place for it. For heat and safety reasons. And many who are using them upgrade the existing line since most of the time you would need to actually upgrade the line size when using an electric pump .. I have one in my kit car and honestly they are troublesome Its failed on me one already
I got a Holley blue pump floating around the garage that I replaced with a mechanical one.
They had nothing listed for my year car for an electric setup. I emailed them to see if they can help
They don't, you'll have to piece the kit together yourself. Whats the reason for wanting to swap? Why not just get a high volume mechanical pump and save yourself a headache. Unless you enjoy the high pitched whine of a holley red/blue...
The reason for changing to an electric pump is because I'm fighting a losing battle with vapor lock and I read that everyone who switched to an electric pump had positive results. My 74 is my daily driver and this has made the car useless and unreliable.
Forum members are helping me in a few more ignition related things to rule out, however I was just going to change the pump if that gets such good results.
The reason for changing to an electric pump is because I'm fighting a losing battle with vapor lock and I read that everyone who switched to an electric pump had positive results. My 74 is my daily driver and this has made the car useless and unreliable.
Forum members are helping me in a few more ignition related things to rule out, however I was just going to change the pump if that gets such good results.
A '74 with the correct OEM pump and system is virtually immune from vapour lock issues. Is the return/bypass line hooked up and operating?
If you do go with an electric pump make sure you get the switch that will shut it off if you lose oil pressure.
a mechanical pump keeps going with low oil pressure. but i am a fan of cut off switches as a theft prevention device, altho a tow truck would render that useless......
a mechanical pump keeps going with low oil pressure. but i am a fan of cut off switches as a theft prevention device, altho a tow truck would render that useless......
True. I was thinking of the, god forbid, chance of an accident and the person caught in the car with the motor off and that pump still running pushing fuel towards a hot exhaust system or the ground.
I have a holley Blue pump on my 75, due to the new crate motor was not made for mech fuel pump. I also a fuel pressure regulator which is set a 6.5 psi. and adjustable, you should put a fuel pressure guage on fuel line to near carb. I installed a new edelbrock 1406 and max fuel pressure is 6.5psi. The fuel pump is installed near passenger front tire. So I am only getting about 3.5 to 4 psi at carb. I have headers so I installed braided line from regulator on wheel well to carb using an -6 connectors for looks and heat. It works good even in passing gear. I wanted to use mech fuel pump but engine was not drilled for fuel pump. 96-00 Crate Vortec 350 motor.
Roger, same thing I installed a new Vortex, no hole or cam lobe to run Mech. pump. I drilled two holes through the side marker light hole an mounted the pump to the frame. Took a Aluminum pan & formed it to a shape that works like a heat shield, & mounted it to the bottom of the frame, under the pump. I used Carter pumps from Summit on both my vettes & a Holly on my 1957 chevy, which looks just like the carter. Have a great one. Gene
Great to hear someone do same, I was told I should move the fuel to rear, but it works good where its at so far. You can hear it more when you turn on engine but quiets down. Fuel pump is installed on frame, good idea about pan I may use that idea to make a heat shield, I thought about getting heat shield material.
they work better in the rear as they are designed to push fuel not suck fuel and they stay cooler there
That's what I was told too.... so I moved the fuel pump to the opposite e d of my kit car by the fuel tank and out of the engine compartment..... a couple months later I'm climbing a mountain road and the car dies on me.... luckily im about 3 minutes from my cabin behind me down the mountain.... I get turned around and coast and push it there. I notice the pump isn't running and smells burnt.... I pull it apart and its covered I'm fuel and the electrical and plastic components were charred!! Scared the sh%$ out of me..... that was the last " Mr gasket" brand pump I'll ever buy I said.... so I bought a "facet" brand pump online only to find that like carter and mr gasket they don't make all their pumps and all sell the same Chinese crap with their own name on it..... recently found a "carter" marine pump is sold with about half a dozen other name brands on the box like airtex.
Last edited by augiedoggy; May 10, 2013 at 09:13 PM.
I have installed an electric fuel pump on a 1972 F-100 in the past that had a 390 Engine in it. installed a 7 PSI pump and I mounted it away from the engine on the Firewall to reduce heat. It was not hard to redirect the fuel lines. They are much easier to mount under the hood and attach to the fuse box or a switch if they are closer to the wire harness. I attached mine to an open aux in the fuse box so when I turned the key it would turn on and shut off with the ingition switch. Not going to say it was easy but it can be done.
I would try to keep the mechanical if possible.
You wont find a "kit" specific for your car.
I've used Mallory, Carter, and Holley electrics. I would suggest a Mallory 110gph, it's a 7 psi pump that doesnt require a regulator. Mount it as close to the tank and as low as possible. Electrics push much better than pull.
I would suggest going through a relay. Any voltage drop tends to kill pumps and you never know the condition of 40 year old wiring. Also use a heavy enough wire from the relay to pump. Get an oil pressure activated hobbs switch to shut off the pump in case of accident. There is a specific switch with normally open and closed terminals. The close terminal is wired to the starter solenoid to provide voltage when cranking the engine. http://www.jegs.com/InstallationInst...0/650-4110.pdf
I use a Holley HLY-12-125 on a car i drag race. It's quiet and doesn't require a regulator. Works great.
With regards to vapor lock. I thought my 71 corvette had a vapor lock problem. Turned out the new ACDelco pump had a defect. When it would get warm in the engine compartment fuel pump pressure would fall to about 1 psi.
To rule out vapor lock I ran a really long rubber fuel line outside the car, on the ground from the tank to the fuel pump. Then another rubber hose from the fuel pump through the wheel well outside the fender up and over to the carb. Couldn't drive the car of course but I could guarantee my fuel line and fuel wasn't getting hot.
It drove me crazy. I couldn't believe a brand new fuel pump was the problem. Thanks to forum members who clued me in.
You might try this before making your switch to electric pump, just a thought.
I picked up the pump and pre/ post filters from Jegs, and also have a regulator up front. I went with a high pressure pump because I originally was going to go with fuel injection, but changed my mind, so I have the regulator cutting the pressure back for the carb. If I decide to go with fuel injection later, I don't have to change the pump.
I'm glad I came across this post. I took my '72 to her first Hot Rod cruise last night and she let me down. Driving there was no problem. But, once in the stop & go traffic it died. After she sat for awhile it started again. Then died.
I attributed it to vapor lock. Fuel lines running next to heater hoses, etc. At this point I'm planning on adding an electric fuel pump near the tank. I have a 350 Summit crate motor with a Summit 600 double pump carb (all from previous owner). What PSi or GPH is recommended without adding a regulator? I never plan on adding FI if that helps.
I don't mean to thread jack but there is a lot of knowledgable members already on this topic. All I can say is thank goodness for AAA towing.