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Old May 10, 2013 | 08:38 PM
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Default Timing rookie

Ok so I'm doing more and more of my own work thanks to you guys here that help out with answers maybe one day I can help someone lol but I am doing my timing or checking the timing on my 74 l82 I bought a cheap timing light and have been reading lots of stuff here just searching the forum. I get the initial timing thing but I'm more interested in setting my total timing now I've been reading a good number is 36. But I didn't buy a dial back timing light. Can I still set the total timing with a basic light ? If so the tab on the timing cover reads bdst 14 and I believe 8 after the 0. So how can I be sure when I get 36

Or should I find my tdc first mark it then move the tab to measure the timing with the gun

Last edited by redwhitekat; May 10, 2013 at 09:07 PM.
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Old May 10, 2013 | 09:26 PM
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Stop by your local parts store and get a timing tape for whatever diameter balancer you have. Clean the balancer, stick it on (corresponding the zero on the tape and the mark on the balancer). Use the zero mark on the existing timing tab and go for it. You can also measure the distance between the marks on the tab and calculate how far between 0 and 36, transfer that to the balancer and make another mark.
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Old May 10, 2013 | 09:37 PM
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Take a string and cut it off when it wraps around the balancer. Cut it in half 3 times. That will be 45 degrees. Use the timing gauge to mark that down an additional 9 degrees. Then use the string to make a 36 degree mark on the balancer.
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Old May 10, 2013 | 09:39 PM
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Ok good tips I'm doing this tomorrow morning let you all know how I end up

Ok just to be sure I do have to find my tdc to get the 0 mark correct ?

Last edited by redwhitekat; May 10, 2013 at 10:06 PM.
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Old May 10, 2013 | 11:30 PM
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TDC "should" be aligned with the mark on the balancer- not necessarily the tab, but again, it "should" be close enough. There is probably a way to confirm the TDC on both the tab and the balancer, but without pulling the left cylinder head I can't think of how. For most purposes, just the assumption the marks are correct will be close enough.
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Old May 11, 2013 | 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Mashman
Take a string and cut it off when it wraps around the balancer. Cut it in half 3 times. That will be 45 degrees. Use the timing gauge to mark that down an additional 9 degrees. Then use the string to make a 36 degree mark on the balancer.
An easier way to do this is to just measure the string and divide by 10. 360 degrees in a circle, divide by 10 = 36 degrees. Voila! Easier than falling in love.

Scott
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Old May 11, 2013 | 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by scottyp99
An easier way to do this is to just measure the string and divide by 10. 360 degrees in a circle, divide by 10 = 36 degrees. Voila! Easier than falling in love.

Scott
You beat me to it. I'll add that it's easier to measure it in metric because the division is easier.
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Old May 11, 2013 | 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by redwhitekat
Ok good tips I'm doing this tomorrow morning let you all know how I end up

Ok just to be sure I do have to find my tdc to get the 0 mark correct ?
If your timing mark is at 0, your #1 piston will be at TDC (unless there is something wrong, like the dampener has spun, or something like that). Or, close enough, at any rate. It might be at TDC on the compression stroke, or it might be at TDC on the exhaust stroke, either way it doesn't matter. Measure the circumference of the dampener, divide by 10, make a mark that distance from the stock timing mark. Measure clockwise from the stock timing mark. Or, buy the timing tape. To determine the diameter of your dampener, measure the circumference, and divide by 3.14. Or, just measure the diameter, if you can get at it. BTW, do you have Lars' papers on timing? If not, you really need to get hooked up. Good luck,


Scott

Last edited by scottyp99; May 11, 2013 at 12:20 PM.
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Old May 11, 2013 | 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by my 76 ray
You beat me to it. I'll add that it's easier to measure it in metric because the division is easier.
Excellent point! I never though about that, myself! (I just paid the 6 bucks for a timing tape!)

Scott
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Old May 11, 2013 | 12:32 PM
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For years I used a "cheap" timing light. Finally broke down and bought a dial back and been kicking myself for not getting one sooner. If you can afford it you will not regret it and you will have it forever.
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Old May 11, 2013 | 12:50 PM
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Thanks for the tips my findings were it was set to 8 degrees I advanced it to 12 then did my total timing to 38 Went for a drive didn't hear any knocking or any unusual sounds hooked up my vaccum went for another drive still same adjusted my idle to 800 rpm. Engine seems more responsive also if you guys remember my other post I was getting at idle when I would hit the gas a fuel back fire out of the carb that seems to be gone now
Car was runing really good before I had the back fire I pushed it pretty hard one week and I started getting the back fire maybe the distributor skipped something not sure but something did change

For now it's runing ok.
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Old May 11, 2013 | 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by redwhitekat
Thanks for the tips my findings were it was set to 8 degrees I advanced it to 12 then did my total timing to 38 Went for a drive didn't hear any knocking or any unusual sounds hooked up my vaccum went for another drive still same adjusted my idle to 800 rpm. Engine seems more responsive also if you guys remember my other post I was getting at idle when I would hit the gas a fuel back fire out of the carb that seems to be gone now
Car was runing really good before I had the back fire I pushed it pretty hard one week and I started getting the back fire maybe the distributor skipped something not sure but something did change

For now it's runing ok.
What rpm is your total timing coming in at? 2500 to 3000 is the normal figure for high performance. Also, what do you mean when you say you set the initial to 12, and then the total to 38? If you changed total timing, then you changed initial, too, they go hand-in-hand. Measure what initial timing is now, and let us know. (It's not really important, just out of curiosity.) Also, are you using ported or manifold vacuum for vacuum advance? If any of this is confusing, you need to get Lars' papers on how to set timing and vacuum advance.

Scott
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Old May 11, 2013 | 02:17 PM
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Sorry initial is at 14 then my total is 38 coming in at 3000 rpm hopefully there's not detonation or anything bad like that
So at idle it's sitting at 14 vaccum disconnected
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Old May 11, 2013 | 03:32 PM
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Originally Posted by redwhitekat
Sorry initial is at 14 then my total is 38 coming in at 3000 rpm hopefully there's not detonation or anything bad like that
So at idle it's sitting at 14 vaccum disconnected
Sounds good to me, except I'd back it off to 36 to be on the safe side. Have you tried playing around with ported and manifold vacuum?

Scott
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Old May 11, 2013 | 03:55 PM
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Not sure what ported means I do have vaccum advance
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Old May 11, 2013 | 03:56 PM
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My initial problem went away which was back fire of gas coming out of the carb when I would hit the gas at idle
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Old May 11, 2013 | 06:27 PM
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Alright! Now you have the car running well enough to be fun to drive, right? If you really want to get it tuned well, go to the top of the tech/performance page, where the stickies are, and click on Consolidated FAQ (it's the bottom one) then click on Info on Timing. The article, posts, and links therein will give you all the info you need to become an ignition timing tuning phenomenon! Good luck,

Scott
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Old May 11, 2013 | 08:43 PM
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Those are the papers I read and gave me the confidence to go ahead

Anyone know the original location of the timing tab ?? Mine is on the drivers side around the 2 o'clock position. Which makes it a pita to check total timing if they had out it or set it up on the passenger side there's a lot more viewing area on the balancer
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