1971 stripped door handle hole
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,301
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From: Westminster Maryland
Hi jb,
I think this is pretty common.
Have you considered using a 1 size larger screw?
A self-tapping screw will work.
Regards,
Alan
I think this is pretty common.
Have you considered using a 1 size larger screw?
A self-tapping screw will work.
Regards,
Alan
Last edited by Alan 71; May 12, 2013 at 03:18 PM.
Thread Starter
Pro
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From: Graham NC
Thanks, I think it's 3/16 so I should go up to 1/4? How long is that screw supposed to be? The current one is probably only 1/3 inch. Would loctite blue help out?
Thread Starter
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From: Graham NC
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,301
Likes: 4,389
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi JB,
Ah Yes! You were saying" handle" and I was thinking "pull".
That's a different screw and a different problem.
I'm not sure if that hole is 'blind' or not.
If it isn't blind you may find a screw that's just a fraction longer than what you have may be able to catch a few threads at the bottom of the hole.
If not the hole will need to be tapped for a larger diameter screw.
Sorry!
Regards,
Alan
Ah Yes! You were saying" handle" and I was thinking "pull".
That's a different screw and a different problem.
I'm not sure if that hole is 'blind' or not.
If it isn't blind you may find a screw that's just a fraction longer than what you have may be able to catch a few threads at the bottom of the hole.
If not the hole will need to be tapped for a larger diameter screw.
Sorry!
Regards,
Alan
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 11,183
Likes: 3,335
From: North of Toronto - Ontario
Most of the the load on that handle is sideways and the screw just mainly holds it in.
If I didn't have heli-coils, I'd be temped to try some permatex thread repair on it before I went any farther.
I've used it for various things over the years with pretty good results.
You coat the screw with some release and fill the hole with the epoxy, let everything harden and thread the screw back out.
HIH
Mooser
Permatex 81668 Stripped Thread Repair Kit
If I didn't have heli-coils, I'd be temped to try some permatex thread repair on it before I went any farther.
I've used it for various things over the years with pretty good results.
You coat the screw with some release and fill the hole with the epoxy, let everything harden and thread the screw back out.
HIH
Mooser
Permatex 81668 Stripped Thread Repair Kit
Last edited by Mooser; May 12, 2013 at 06:08 PM. Reason: Added part number
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 615
Likes: 25
From: Graham NC
Most of the the load on that handle is sideways and the screw just mainly holds it in.
If I didn't have heli-coils, I'd be temped to try some permatex thread repair on it before I went any farther.
I've used it for various things over the years with pretty good results.
You coat the screw with some release and fill the hole with the epoxy, let everything harden and thread the screw back out.
HIH
Mooser
Permatex 81668 Stripped Thread Repair Kit
If I didn't have heli-coils, I'd be temped to try some permatex thread repair on it before I went any farther.
I've used it for various things over the years with pretty good results.
You coat the screw with some release and fill the hole with the epoxy, let everything harden and thread the screw back out.
HIH
Mooser
Permatex 81668 Stripped Thread Repair Kit
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From: Graham NC
Thread Starter
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From: Graham NC
Race Director
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From: North of Toronto - Ontario
Two screws on the door pull
U-shaped clip holding the lock **** in place (if manual windows, same clip there)
Clip with a screw wraps around to the door edge. The clip actually fits into a couter-sink so after you pull the screw out, hold the clip away from the door or it might scratch it as you pull the door skin.
It's clipped over the top by the window and the plastic "velcro" fasteners mainly near the mid-bottom.
pop the bottom away from the door and lift it upwards to un-hook the top edge.
If you say it fast it sounds easy. Getting the clips off the door lock **** is probably the hardest part. I use basically a crochet hook to reach in and hook the clip and then pull it out. But I've had door skins off of more GM vehicles than I care to remember now
While it's off it's a good time to lube the window tracks/regulator and lock rods etc.
Mooser
Thread Starter
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Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 615
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From: Graham NC
Bit of a PIA but fairly easy.
Two screws on the door pull
U-shaped clip holding the lock **** in place (if manual windows, same clip there)
Clip with a screw wraps around to the door edge. The clip actually fits into a couter-sink so after you pull the screw out, hold the clip away from the door or it might scratch it as you pull the door skin.
It's clipped over the top by the window and the plastic "velcro" fasteners mainly near the mid-bottom.
pop the bottom away from the door and lift it upwards to un-hook the top edge.
If you say it fast it sounds easy. Getting the clips off the door lock **** is probably the hardest part. I use basically a crochet hook to reach in and hook the clip and then pull it out. But I've had door skins off of more GM vehicles than I care to remember now
While it's off it's a good time to lube the window tracks/regulator and lock rods etc.
Mooser
Two screws on the door pull
U-shaped clip holding the lock **** in place (if manual windows, same clip there)
Clip with a screw wraps around to the door edge. The clip actually fits into a couter-sink so after you pull the screw out, hold the clip away from the door or it might scratch it as you pull the door skin.
It's clipped over the top by the window and the plastic "velcro" fasteners mainly near the mid-bottom.
pop the bottom away from the door and lift it upwards to un-hook the top edge.
If you say it fast it sounds easy. Getting the clips off the door lock **** is probably the hardest part. I use basically a crochet hook to reach in and hook the clip and then pull it out. But I've had door skins off of more GM vehicles than I care to remember now
While it's off it's a good time to lube the window tracks/regulator and lock rods etc.
Mooser