When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
It is a piece that looks sort of like a spark plug without the electrodes. You remove all the plugs and insert it into #1 cylinder. By hand you turn the engine over until the piston in #1 cylinder touches the piston stop. Note where your groove on the balancer is related to the 0 mark on the tab. Then turn the engine over by hand the opposite direction and again note the position of the groove with relation to the 0 mark on the tab. True Top Dead Center will be the mid point between the marks.
It is a piece that looks sort of like a spark plug without the electrodes. You remove all the plugs and insert it into #1 cylinder. By hand you turn the engine over until the piston in #1 cylinder touches the piston stop. Note where your groove on the balancer is related to the 0 mark on the tab. Then turn the engine over by hand the opposite direction and again note the position of the groove with relation to the 0 mark on the tab. True Top Dead Center will be the mid point between the marks.
I don't have a piston stop... I understand though.
Start with the simple stuff first, remove the cap and rotor and make sure the advance mechanism isnt stuck. Since I dont know your mechanical skills dont be insulted by this question. Are you connecting the timing light plug wire to the wire on the drivers side closest to the front of the car? If the groove on the balancer is lined up with the zero mark on the tab and the rotor is pointing to #1 cylinder in the cap then you are reasonably within the correct range and the balancer probably has not radically slipped. Have you gone to the MSD website and seen their comments on timing lights that work with their systems. You have to use one of the lights they recommend.
If you have Equus timing light, make sure the ARROW on the wire pickup points towards the cylinder, not the distributor. I made this mistake very first time using this timing light and said "WTF is going on here?"
Start with the simple stuff first, remove the cap and rotor and make sure the advance mechanism isnt stuck. Since I dont know your mechanical skills dont be insulted by this question. Are you connecting the timing light plug wire to the wire on the drivers side closest to the front of the car? If the groove on the balancer is lined up with the zero mark on the tab and the rotor is pointing to #1 cylinder in the cap then you are reasonably within the correct range and the balancer probably has not radically slipped. Have you gone to the MSD website and seen their comments on timing lights that work with their systems. You have to use one of the lights they recommend.
Yes, I know which cylinder is the #1.
My balencer has the degrees stamped all around it, and the I need to line up the degree on the balencer to the marker on the timing cover. The balencer clearly marks TDC so I dont miss it. When the balencer is at TDC the distributer contact points at #1 (last time I checked... i'll check again tonight).
I don;t know if my light is MSD approved... I cant find where MSD says anything about that or where they reccomend lights. I dont want an MDS light. I have an Actron CP7529.
If you have Equus timing light, make sure the ARROW on the wire pickup points towards the cylinder, not the distributor. I made this mistake very first time using this timing light and said "WTF is going on here?"
I have an Actron CP7529. I don't see anywhere that it says to point it in a certain direction, and the pickup doesnt have arrows on it.
What light should I get. I wanted to get MSD 8990, but it appears to be discontinued. and cost $150.
What works with MSD 6A? I dont have 6AL
Only difference between the 6A and 6AL is the AL has a built in rev limiter, just buy any old timing light that just has a button to turn it on and off, no fancy gizmos or anything, should work fine.
Only difference between the 6A and 6AL is the AL has a built in rev limiter, just buy any old timing light that just has a button to turn it on and off, no fancy gizmos or anything, should work fine.
Thanks. Going with the MSD 8992... no frills Light, but MSD brand just to be safe.
Wish me luck, and hopefully my next reading will be in line of what I am expecting and can adjust the timing as I planned to.
From: Albuquerque Resistance is not futile. It's voltage divided by current.
Originally Posted by genuine1980
I don't suppose I could put something like a long screw driver in there and watch to see when the pushes up all the way? Is there another method?
Yes, you can do that. Be careful, don't lose anything in the cylinder, but you can use something to judge if piston TDC is sync with your timing pointer/tab/mark at zero. Use a friend or if you can do it yourself, rotate the crank at the same time you have a probe in #1.
Look at the pointer or whatever, and feel when the probe goes over the top, so to speak.
With the vacuum advance disconnected, and my Idle RPM @ ~850... my initial timing is reading 36.
You may have to lower your idle speed to get initial timing set (or rubber band the weights as has been suggested). Your distributor's mechanical advance may be engaging early. But, 36 seems to be too much for that so you may have other issues.
You have have to lower your idle speed to get initial timing set (or rubber band the weights as has been suggested). Your distributor's mechanical advance may be engaging early. But, 36 seems to be too much for that unless you have other issues.
DC
For my vette, it didn't make .01 degrees difference in initial timing from 850 or 650 or 750.
I don't know if that model has advance ****. Get the one with advance **** (dial) if you can. It'll make things lot easier for you to read.
He says his dampener is marked, so he doesn't really need a dial back light. It might be good to have for some other vehicle you might acquire down the road, though, or a friends vehicle. I'd think about it.
Yes, you can do that. Be careful, don't lose anything in the cylinder, but you can use something to judge if piston TDC is sync with your timing pointer/tab/mark at zero. Use a friend or if you can do it yourself, rotate the crank at the same time you have a probe in #1.
Look at the pointer or whatever, and feel when the probe goes over the top, so to speak.
What about the advance weights in the dist?
Keep in touch, 71
Those were messed up too.. one weight was completely off. I cleaned it up and put it all back on, but I'm not sure if it will pop off again. The post that the weight pivots on seems like it can come out easily. Are there supposed to be clips underneath to keep the post in place?
From: Albuquerque Resistance is not futile. It's voltage divided by current.
Originally Posted by genuine1980
Those were messed up too.. one weight was completely off. I cleaned it up and put it all back on, but I'm not sure if it will pop off again. The post that the weight pivots on seems like it can come out easily. Are there supposed to be clips underneath to keep the post in place?