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As long as you have 12V it doesn't matter where you hook the leads. Make sure you're on #1. Does the timing advance when you blip the throttle? If not, you may have lost one or both springs on the timing weights.
As long as you have 12V it doesn't matter where you hook the leads. Make sure you're on #1. Does the timing advance when you blip the throttle? If not, you may have lost one or both springs on the timing weights.
I think it advanced a bit when I revved it a little, but I didn't take great note. SO your thinking probably springs?
Is it possible for it to be advanced this much and still run? And all I need to do is retard it?
St. Jude Donor '05-'06,'11,'13-'14,'16,'18,'19,'24, '25
Originally Posted by Shark Racer
As long as you have 12V it doesn't matter where you hook the leads. Make sure you're on #1. Does the timing advance when you blip the throttle? If not, you may have lost one or both springs on the timing weights.
Its not uncommon for the shaft to gum up and stick, it may be stuck at full advance.
at 36* it should kick back when you try and start it,
should be very hard to start,
Neal
Not hard to start. A few pumps of the gas and it usually starts right up when it isn't cold. When cold, it's a little rough for a few minutes until it warms up... but still it starts without too much issue.
So by MSD transistor ignition, do you mean you have a 6AL type ignition box? If so, are you using a dial back timing light? MSD warns against using dial back lights as you may get a false reading. If that's what you have of course.
So by MSD transistor ignition, do you mean you have a 6AL type ignition box? If so, are you using a dial back timing light? MSD warns against using dial back lights as you may get a false reading. If that's what you have of course.
The MSD box says 6A...doesnt say 6AL that I can see. Not sure if there is a difference. The timing light I have is digital.
At this point I would pull the cap and rotor off to inspect the advance weights. If the springs are on there , see iff the weights move freely. Then I would get a thick rubber band and put it around the weights in a manner that allows the distributor to turn but holds the weights from opening at idle speeds. Basically, lock out the mechanical advance and disconnect the vacuum advance.
I agree that it should be harder to start with that inital setting. It sounds like it starts just fine by your explanation....so I'd borrow a buddys timing light to cofirm or dispell this. Have a look at your balancer and see if anything has slipped or out of place as well. MSD will have something on there site about checking timing properly with that ignition system.
From: Albuquerque Resistance is not futile. It's voltage divided by current.
"How do you "un-gum" it. If I find that is is gummed? How will I see this?"
Take the distributor cap off and see if the rotor moves freely clockwise and springs back when you let go. (I think cw, I dont
have a dist in front of me.)
If it moves freely and springs back, replace the cap and retard the timing, turn dist clockwise. You'll have to increase idle speed as you retard.
If rotor does not move or does not spring back freely, further
inspection of dist is required.
In other words, take it out, take it apart and have a look.
It'll help you understand how it works.
Is the dist GM point style? HEI? MSD? Other?
Also be aware of timing tapes you can get for the balancer,
to take dial back error out of the equation.
Let us know what you find.
From: Albuquerque Resistance is not futile. It's voltage divided by current.
Originally Posted by genuine1980
Not hard to start. A few pumps of the gas and it usually starts right up when it isn't cold.
You shouldn't have to pump the gas when it isn't cold. However, an engine with advanced timing or weak starter may hot start easier with a few squirts. When hot, a few squirts of the acc pump richen the mixture enough to knock down the cylinder pressure a few revolutions
and lessen the load on the starter.
You shouldn't have to pump the gas when it isn't cold. However, an engine with advanced timing or weak starter may hot start easier with a few squirts. When hot, a few squirts of the acc pump richen the mixture enough to knock down the cylinder pressure a few revolutions
and lessen the load on the starter.
GA
Yea, def won't start very easily unless I pump the gas a few times.
At this point I would pull the cap and rotor off to inspect the advance weights. If the springs are on there , see iff the weights move freely. Then I would get a thick rubber band and put it around the weights in a manner that allows the distributor to turn but holds the weights from opening at idle speeds. Basically, lock out the mechanical advance and disconnect the vacuum advance.
I agree that it should be harder to start with that inital setting. It sounds like it starts just fine by your explanation....so I'd borrow a buddys timing light to cofirm or dispell this. Have a look at your balancer and see if anything has slipped or out of place as well. MSD will have something on there site about checking timing properly with that ignition system.
Good idea... use another timing light to eliminate the light being wrong.