I have narrowed down my battery drain to the interior light because they are not shutting off.

I believe it is the Dash/Head Light Switch or Courtesy Door Switches causing the problem but I am leaning more towards the Courtesy Door Switches. While I am not ruling out the Dash/Head Light Switch thinking I will figure out how to disconnect the Courtesy Door Switches first to see if one of those has failed to open the circuit than turn off the interior lights. Than if they are not the problem look at the Dash Light Switch.

Wondering how hard it is to replace? Has anyone replaced the door switches before? From other 1970 Model Chevy's I have had they are accessed thru the wheel wells and require 2 people to replace. One to hold it in place and the other to tighten it down.


How about the Dash Head Light Switch? I know if you turn it all the way to the left passed the dash dimming lights it turns on the Dome/Floor board lights.

I purchased a Haynes Tear Down manual for 1968 thru 1982 but cannot find the the door switch replacement in it. But it does cover the Dash mounted Head Light Switch. Requires me to lower the steering wheel and pull the dash. These instructions seem simple but time consuming.


Electrical problems are SO much fun to fix. At least it is simpler in the early model cars. Many Cars today have Magnet Accuated switches in the doors to turn off the Courtisy Lights.

 

Unless they changed the door switches between '76 and 80, the switch just unscrews from the door jamb. They work by grounding the circuit so any short circuit to ground will prevent the lights from turning off. It could also be a problem with the delay timer if your '80 has one.

 

What model year? Later cars have a courtesy light delay time which can casue problems; earlier years do not have the delay.

The Haynes is almost too generic to help you with specific problems.

 

I have only owned the car for about 5 weeks and Mine is a 1977 Base model and it does appear to have a delay on the interior lights. They do stay on for about 1 minute after I close the doors. Which I thought were only available in later models. I am still looking for my battery drain and will not be able to really take a good look at until Sunday. The Battery drain started after I owned it for 3 weeks and killed the battery. So I am going to inspect all the ground wires and pull the leads off the door switches or pull the bulbs so the interior lights do not come on. Then I will go thru the fuse box looking for a drain. It is a slow drain and if the car sits for more than 3 or 4 days the battery is dead. I am also not ruling out the Hood Light since it flickers on and off when I open the hood. Leads me to believe the Hood Courtesy Light switch is bad. One light bulb flickering will take a few days to drain a battery. In my past experience you can kill a battery in about 4 hours with the 4 Way Flashers running. One bulb flickering like my hood light does could take a few days to drain a battery.

Saturday I have to fix the steering system and taking it into an alignment shop. Car only has about 43,700 original miles on it and previous owners never greased the front end much in the 35 years. I greased the power steering unit where it attaches to the pitman arm 2 weeks ago and it spit out white water and all the other joints on the Tie Rods, Ball Joints, and Idler arm were bone dry. SO Saturday it goes in to have all these parts replaced.

One step at a time I knew it would cost me money since it sat for a few years.

The Haynes book is really not much help and I can figure out how to tear stuff down with out it. It does provide generic guidence and really is not all correct from my readings and looking at the car.

 

How old is your battery? Your drain might just be the battery itself is unable to hold a charge.

I don't think I would have all the ball joints etc. replaced just because they were low on grease. They might need replaced but they might just need grease. Even if the previous owners only greased them every 5 years it amounts to every 6000 miles.

 

I had a problem with my interior lights staying on with my 69 couple, and draining the battery, this was after replacing the door switches. One night when I was coming home, I noticed the lights kept flickering off and on. After an inspection under the dash..I found that the bulb and socket on the driver's side had slipped out of its clip. The metal outside of the socket, was laying up against a metal brace, which acted as a ground and turned the lights on. After replacing the socket back in the clip...no more problems.

 

I bought a brand new battery last weekend. That was my first consideration since the car sat for long periods of time. I should have had it tested first before buying a new one but at least now I know the age of the battery. The old one was not dated so I do not know how old it was.

I know batteries left connected for long periods sitting will cause a bad cell unless they are connected to a float charger to keep them warm with low current flowing thru them.

Sunday I am going to put the car up on a lift and inspect the entire wire harness, crawl around under the dash and disconnect and reconnect parts of the wire harness and check the Fuse Box. Then I will start testing switches with an Ohm/Volt Meter.

When I disconnect the battery it sparks a bit and I can hear some clicking in the dash panel while I disconnect it so I know there is a major draw somewhere in the electrical system. I have been disconnecting the battery after each day driven so I can start it without a jump.

The altenator is good and charging the battery when the car is running than shows normal voltage on the meter.

I do have the Courtisy Light under the hood flickering on and off when the hood is open and I suspect this could potentially be a problem causing the drain. So I going to locate the switch for it and inspect it.

Been a long time since I had to perform this on an old car better then 20 years ago.

 

Thanks for the information and I will be inspecting it also after your advice

 

I like to do things once and know I have all new parts. The ball joints were not tested by the Tech when I brought it in 2 weeks ago. He rocked the tires side to side and did not show me top to bottom motion. The rest of the steering parts are shot and have lots of play in them. The Steering Control unit is leaking quite a bit at the o-rings and hose fittings. So also bought all new hoses. I bought everything but a new pump to fix the problems with the steering system

After I financially recover from the Steering System I will replace the suspension components all the rubber bushings with Neoprene Bushings than with all new performance springs and shocks all the way around. I will buy the parts over time so it does not hurt my wallet too much with each expense and that will be another huge expense. I want this car to handle like it is running on rails like it did 35 years ago when brand new.

 

The under hood light on my 82 went bad and killed the battery. Sometimes they get bent and it triggers the mercury switch.

You could take a volt meter and watch it as you turn on lights. It will drop in voltage when you open the hood. If it doesn't, than you know the light is staying on.

 

Thanks for sharing Mine Flickers quite a bit and it is a suspect since it takes a 2 or 3 days to kill the battery.

 

MakoJoe,
You do NOT have to go through what you are thinking of doing on Sunday by disconnecting things and re-connecting them. This is an EASY fix. I have been through this more times than I can count.

You have to remember that what is happening is a component that is powered up and drawing power. SO...this means that it has NOTHING to do with components that require the ignition to be turned on to energize.

I have found that most cases it is the alarm system...which is energized...but the alarm horn not blowing...but it is still drawing power.

Also..as earlier mentioned...it can be the interior light switches or timer controller. I am not at work and I know 77 is an odd year when it comes to some wiring.

DO you know how to use a test light to find the circuit that is causing the drain???

If you want ...you can call me at work Saturday (tomorrow)and I will be glad to help you out...I will also be there on Sunday, Both days from 10:00am to 4:00pm; (704-394-5150 EST) All it will cost you is a phone call and some time. Hopefully you have a ohm/volt meter and a 12 volt test light.

DUB

 

OK...now knowing that it takes two or three days to kill the battery. it is a very small power drain. Because if it is 400 milliamps +...it can kill a battery in a day.

Still willing to help if you need it.

DUB

 

Thanks Dub you may hear from me on Sunday. The car is going to be in the shop all day Saturday to have the steering system replaced. Shop tells me 4 to 5 hours of labor estimate to replace and realign the front end. Which I tend to believe them since I had this same work done on my 1972 El Camino in the late 1980s. I used to work in a tire brake alignment shop back then when I had that work done.

Mine does have an alarm system with a Key on drivers side fender. The previous owner says he never activated it.

I do know how to use these tools but it has been 20 + years since I have worked on older cars so I am a little rusty on fixing them up.

 

Think I found it unplugged the Courtisy light under the hood and left the car for 2 days with out starting it up. The engine fired up with a strong current from the battery.

Going to test the hood switch Saturday morning but fairly sure this is the drain on the battery. Switch is really worn out and very sloppy. Just need to verify it as being the problem.

 

Confirmed it is my Courtesy light under the hood switch causing my battery drain. Laid a hammer on the switch to open the contacts while the hood was open than used a volt meter to test the voltage. This thing jumped around with voltage from 0 to 7+ volts while the switch was supposed to have an open circuit and show no volts at all.

Looks like I will be replacing the hood courtesy light switch up near the firewall with a new one. Until I get a new one leaving the bulb out so the battery does not die anymore.