Well if it were me and I had the money I'd get a new set of cast iron or aluminum heads with modern combustion chambers and good flow characteristics vs trying to get those working well. Although like you said the price is good for those. Still I would only want to do it once and get the best for what I could afford. If that is $300 then use what you got. Those valves are nice and clean anyhow.
Like I said though I don't know anything about camel hump heads. Do some internet research and see what people have to say about them.

 

The machine shop pulled a valve and it is 2.02 intakes so Im good there, bad part is they need hardened seats and couple guides, so I told him if Im going to put any money into the heads I will go with my budget which is 700 total for the heads he agreed.

The guy said he will change the guides that need it and check the others, one head needs one valve has some pitting, going to do a performance cut on the seats ( I have no idea what that means) install screw in studs with guide plates and probably open up the holes if needed for the pushrod, cut down the something on the head for the higher lift springs, and do some mild port work all for 370 bucks I dont think i can beat that.

NAPA here wants like 250-300 for a valve job and do believe this guy is better then anyone who works for them. but he does own his own shop

 

370 for both heads?

Scott

 

this is both heads he is very avid about beating any price in town no matter what he is a small business owner and is real down to earth, he dont have no buiseness coming in right now he runs a paint and body shop at the same place but everyone had the work done over the winter so hes really just trying to make ends meet.

 

370 bucks for both heads is a pretty good price. But, you'll still just have a nice, fresh set of crappy iron heads. For another 370 on top of the 370 you're going to spend on them, you could have a set of these:

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Flo-Te...lug,25118.html

Scott

 

I do realize I could have purchased many cheap aluminum heads iE
procomp
flotech
assault racing

I know just as you do that throughout the years things will be upgraded but I also know that the cheapy heads out there wont bring me 400 dollars used if in good shape, I have friends with the ebay heads that are broke due to poor workmanship, ill keep what I have and maybe one day trade with cash from me for good aluminum heads AFR,BRODIX, ETC to someone who wants cast iron heads ready to go

 

The Flo-tek heads are sold by Speedway Motors, they have a pretty good reputation, and Car Craft recently used them in a shootout of 8 different small block chevy heads, and they seemed to think they were ok. I'm going to give them a try pretty soon. If you want to save up and buy really nice heads, I'm sure not going to argue with that. Good luck,

Scott

 

Been off here for while deployment got cancelled due to sequestration,but been so busy time has flown by and now leave for sure next week,car is running again took about 4 days with work and doing things house before I leave, I haven't drove it yet just got it running, so parts didnt sit for 9 months, found a few things when pulling engine part though

pistons Re .60 over not .30 so maybe thats why the flex fan,

I have one quick question I ran the cam that the springs on heads were matched to
specs are 234@.050 .488 lift and 114 lsa what should I have timing set at I have it around 9 right now but cant fjnd nothing on cam besides what elgin produces

 

That little divot on the piston face sure looks a lot like an exhaust valve, doesn't it? As far as timing goes, check this out:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...long-post.html

Some of the papers referenced are a bit out of date, you can e-mail Lars Grimsrud at v8fastcars@msn.com to get the latest copies. Don't be shy, he's one of the good guys. Be respectful, though, he deserves it.

That cam you describe is starting to get into "big cam" territory, so it'll most likely want a good bit of initial timing, so you may have to get involved with modifying the ignition advance travel and vacuum advance and stuff. Don't worry, it's not as bad as it sounds.

Scott

 

Deployments over!
Car is not happy.

I had my wife and a friend try to start car regularly while I was gone and just let it run for a few minutes. It had a slight miss , I knew I needed a set of wires,but would do it when I returned

well im back so I went and bought some MSD 8.5 wires. The miss seemed to clean up then I had some smell of burning oil, all the plugs on the passenger side fouled. I cleaned those up put them back in and took for a drive still seemed to smoke a little especially if I drove it hard and puffs of smoke every time I shifted.

Compression test results, From a cold engine that had sat overnight.

2-155psi, 4-150psi, 6-145psi, 8-150psi.
1-85psi, 3-145psi, 5-150psi, 7 150psi.

the compression held and never bled off so I`m leaning towards valve seals dried up due to sitting or easy fix about a hour and done.

Then I further investigated the low compression test results on the number 1 cylinder. I pulled the valve cover and watched the rockers the intake rocker was not even moving.

I pulled the intake manifold to check the valve train out hoping for a collapsed lifter. I have already been through the wiped lobe on this car from the cam that was in the car when I purchased it, when taking the rockers off the exhaust screw In stud snapped. at least if the upper end.

This is what I found......


[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]


I called the machine shop who did the head work he said he will take care of the stud, And said if I want the valve seals changed he will come over and help me change them while the heads are on the car.

His suggestion is something is not right with the lifter bores he knows I know how to install a cam and yes I used break in lube probably a bottle because I was scared of this.

He has a vortec block he said we can put my heads on and be ready to go, or try another cam and see what happens and it was my choice but dealing with pulling the pan cleaning everything again and then again so no metal is floating through out the engine is not on my to do list.

Suggestions????

 

Who knows where all those metal filings went. Pull the engine and do a rebuild or get a crate. Go roller cam next time around.

 

Yep. Motor needs pulled and block tanked to get all the filings. Probably needs new bearings. A hydraulic roller is a little more money, but so worth it for the peace of mind.