Brake issue
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 471
Likes: 3
Brake issue
Hi, I'm trying to explain the brake issue I have.
When I take the car for a trip after a couple of weeks the brakes (power brakes) don't work. After some pushings on the brake pad and some miles (carefully), they start to work on one side (I feel the car sliding on one side when I brake and I have to correct with the wheel) and then finally after some more miles they resume their functioning.
What is the root cause? Air inside the circuit or low brake fluid? How to check for them?
thanks
When I take the car for a trip after a couple of weeks the brakes (power brakes) don't work. After some pushings on the brake pad and some miles (carefully), they start to work on one side (I feel the car sliding on one side when I brake and I have to correct with the wheel) and then finally after some more miles they resume their functioning.
What is the root cause? Air inside the circuit or low brake fluid? How to check for them?
thanks
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 38,923
Likes: 1,481
From: Southbound
Cruise-In II Veteran
What's the overall condition of the brake system? Have you done any brake work? Do you need brake work? Have you done any maintenance on the system? Have you bled the system?
C3 brakes are front and rear. One side cannot be working and the other not working without serious issues in the system.
Why not take it to a shop and have a pro take a look at things to give you a reference point?
C3 brakes are front and rear. One side cannot be working and the other not working without serious issues in the system.
Why not take it to a shop and have a pro take a look at things to give you a reference point?
Last edited by Easy Mike; May 22, 2013 at 09:07 AM.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 471
Likes: 3
Braking system had been upgraded to power brake one year ago from a shop, and it worked ok. It has started to have problems after the winter, when I don't use the car so much...
Last edited by Iron_dog; May 22, 2013 at 09:33 AM.
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 217
Likes: 0
From: Shearwater Nova Scotia
Are you using the original calipers?
If so it may be due to the design flaw of the lip seals over the caliper bores. Did you notice brake fluid on the floor near the tires? Did you check the master cyclinder to make sure it was still topped up?
If the master cylinder is low/empty then you will have to bleed the entire system - starting with a bench bleed of the master cylinder and then working on the calipers. (shameless plug for Motive Power Bleeder here).
If so it may be due to the design flaw of the lip seals over the caliper bores. Did you notice brake fluid on the floor near the tires? Did you check the master cyclinder to make sure it was still topped up?
If the master cylinder is low/empty then you will have to bleed the entire system - starting with a bench bleed of the master cylinder and then working on the calipers. (shameless plug for Motive Power Bleeder here).
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,039
Likes: 62
From: Kona Hawaii
Will be upgrading to the Wilwood D8 calipers.6 piston front and 4 piston rear.Aluminum body much lighter than stock and hear they are easy to bleed, unlike the stock units.Van Steel is giving a discount to forum members!!
http://www.vansteel.com/index.cfm?fu...&SubGroup=1962
http://www.vansteel.com/index.cfm?fu...&SubGroup=1962
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 178
Likes: 17
From: South Shore Massachusetts
Will be upgrading to the Wilwood D8 calipers.6 piston front and 4 piston rear.Aluminum body much lighter than stock and hear they are easy to bleed, unlike the stock units.Van Steel is giving a discount to forum members!!
http://www.vansteel.com/index.cfm?fu...&SubGroup=1962
http://www.vansteel.com/index.cfm?fu...&SubGroup=1962
Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 31
Likes: 14
From: Kintzel NY
Over 30-years ago I had similar brake problems with "Stock Brakes" on my 73. Original design flaw caused corrosion between piston and calipers. That's why a guy from the Buffalo, NY Area started Stainless Steel Brakes, not far from where I live. Essentially all he did was bore out the stock GM caliper and put a stainless steel sleeve and piston in. It was an upgrade just about everyone made until GM corrected the problem in later years. Brake technology has come a long way, so you have many good choices available.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 38,270
Likes: 2,058
From: California
Reply!
Hi, I'm trying to explain the brake issue I have.
When I take the car for a trip after a couple of weeks the brakes (power brakes) don't work. After some pushings on the brake pad and some miles (carefully), they start to work on one side (I feel the car sliding on one side when I brake and I have to correct with the wheel) and then finally after some more miles they resume their functioning.
What is the root cause? Air inside the circuit or low brake fluid? How to check for them?
thanks
When I take the car for a trip after a couple of weeks the brakes (power brakes) don't work. After some pushings on the brake pad and some miles (carefully), they start to work on one side (I feel the car sliding on one side when I brake and I have to correct with the wheel) and then finally after some more miles they resume their functioning.
What is the root cause? Air inside the circuit or low brake fluid? How to check for them?
thanks
Also all of the other posts were good in the recommendations to stainless sleeves and I would step up to the pistons so they are all matched and expanding with heat equally.
The booster is difficult and on one, even though it was newly purchased without hope of return, we used silicone to seal it on the body. The very small leak was just enough, that on a short drive or if the brakes weren't being consistently applied, then we would have what seemed like changing symptoms.
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Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 471
Likes: 3
Thank you guys for the tips!
Right now I have no leak and brake level seems ok.
The good thing is that, if I use the car every week, I don't even notice this issue, I have to leave the car sitting for one month... as I did during the winter.
I will also consider to upgrade brake system in the future, but only when I raise the power of the stock L48...
Right now I have no leak and brake level seems ok.
The good thing is that, if I use the car every week, I don't even notice this issue, I have to leave the car sitting for one month... as I did during the winter.
I will also consider to upgrade brake system in the future, but only when I raise the power of the stock L48...
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 217
Likes: 0
From: Shearwater Nova Scotia
If sticking with the original system (if it ain't broke don't fix it) then I would still suggest doing a brake overhaul simply as routine maintenance.
There are two main reasons I suggest this:
1) Unless done regularly, your brake fluid may be more like brake SLUDGE
.
I did an MC/Caliper overhaul and the brake fluid was disgusting.
2) When doing an overhaul, you may find something that could explain your problem.
For example, when I did mine I found that the pistons were pitted and needed to be replaced. On top of that, you are able to really get in the brake system and clean it out.
You will have to replace the lip seals which is minimal cost. You may uncover things that will cost more money...
There are two main reasons I suggest this:
1) Unless done regularly, your brake fluid may be more like brake SLUDGE
. I did an MC/Caliper overhaul and the brake fluid was disgusting.
2) When doing an overhaul, you may find something that could explain your problem.
For example, when I did mine I found that the pistons were pitted and needed to be replaced. On top of that, you are able to really get in the brake system and clean it out.
You will have to replace the lip seals which is minimal cost. You may uncover things that will cost more money...