Spreader bar Install
Having installed mine yesterday, I can say a lot of folks on this forum do not bother to read the instructions that come with the device.

Notice no where does it say to raise the vehicle. I tried that and it's not a good idea. I raised the car when the control arm cross shaft followed the nuts toward the center of the car. Fearing that they would come off the end of the studs when the nuts were removed. The cross shafts stopped moving after a couple of inches of movement.
The problem with raising the car is when you put it back on the ground, you have to drive it to get the frame back to it's natural state. You can't do that with the spreader bar in place because it will biind everything up. So I got the brackets aligned properly for fore and aft placement so the bar didn't touch the fan or the p/s pulley. Then I was able to remove the bar by shortening it. Once the bar was removed, I drove around the block to settle the suspension, and finally I put the bar back in.
No where does it say zero preload, in fact, exactly the opposite. See instruction #4. It wants one half to one full turn of preload on the bar. Hey, I'm just repeating the maufacturer here.
I made what I think is a significant improvment to the product. The grade 5 bolts which are used to attach the bar ends to the brackets are threaded all most all the way to the head - the shank or unthreaded part is very short. The result is that part of the bar end and the second piece of bracket the bolt goes through, seat on threads, not the shank. I found some grade 8 bolts that have shanks just long enough to pass through both bracket tabs. The only downside to these is the nuts are lock nuts, like the valve adjusting nuts. That meant tightening the nuts was a very slow and laborous task.
I think (I hope) my mod is an improvement although the amount of stress on those bolts and the bar itself shouldn't be that great.
So OP, if you haven't already read the instructions, give them a once or twice over and have fun with the installation.

Pete
Last edited by PeteZO6; Jun 11, 2013 at 05:23 PM.
when you do put it on the car, it's best to check to see how far it's flexed - and align it if necessary after you put the spreader in place.
when you do put it on the car, it's best to check to see how far it's flexed - and align it if necessary after you put the spreader in place.
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Pete
I have all of the parts to make a spreader bar for some time now, but have never gotten around to fitting it. However, I have asked the question previously about the stock factory distance between the two shock towers and have received replies from Forum members that the correct measurement is 26+3/8".
So, it might pay you to adjust your spreader bar until you reach this dimension. Comment on the above will be appreciated.
Regards from Down Under.

aussiejohn
Seems that they mean to pre-load the bar after the jack is off the frame, although it doesn't specifically say it.
I have a lot going on with my car right now, but when I get to the spreader bar, I'll be having fun putting it on a big block with an engine-driven fan, exactly the application the kit isn't designed for.
I have all of the parts to make a spreader bar for some time now, but have never gotten around to fitting it. However, I have asked the question previously about the stock factory distance between the two shock towers and have received replies from Forum members that the correct measurement is 26+3/8".
So, it might pay you to adjust your spreader bar until you reach this dimension. Comment on the above will be appreciated.
Regards from Down Under.

aussiejohn
If you set to factory then you'll need another wheel alignment. Chances are, your existing alignment will be based on the settled distance between towers which is now less than factory.
BTW, any interest in making/selling me a kit for my 69? US Vendors + Shipping make these spreader bars very expensive!
Just PM me.

Joe
car corners like Lord intended....



Thanks for the honest info



















