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TCracingCA- I may go back and replace my mounting brackets with ones similar to your design. I have some spare aluminum channel iron that is the correct width, so I would just need to cut to length and taper it to make it pretty. Plus- polished aluminum looks nicer than painted steel.
TCracingCA- I may go back and replace my mounting brackets with ones similar to your design. I have some spare aluminum channel iron that is the correct width, so I would just need to cut to length and taper it to make it pretty. Plus- polished aluminum looks nicer than painted steel.
Hi,
Do you have extra long A-arm studs on your car? If so where can I find some.
Stefan
[QUOTE=TCracingCA;1595513006]
Originally Posted by ronarndt
spreader bar brace. one ugly weld shows
Thanks for the compliment!! I thought I had went thru the forums and deleted most all of the pictures of any of my unique mods! I guess I missed this one, as it was on C3! I kind of wasn't wanting the track crowd to see my $hit, till I kicked their a$$es! I haven't over the years hung out on C3, but I think I am the person with the most resurrected posts on C2 (I am retired on there now, and super rarely on C3 now)! I spend time now mostly exclusively on PRC and do searches of my most recent posts as to where I left off over there, or as to what people said after I replied to a topic and then see like an old topic show up in the current is how I see these post resurrections!
I am glad you like my unique engineering! One of many unique ways I have modified my cars! I race Canyons and not smooth part friendly tracks (well I have done that too, spent time on tracks! !). I am an old Mulholland and Turnbull Canyon racer! I have been modifying Corvettes now for over 40 years!
One day, I hope to be done with the current projects, and then you guys can see more of my fancy unique ideas (maybe )!! But actually on the current, I have the same idea, but multiple holes for moving the bar fore or aft ! I have like Clogged Gilmer pulleys with toothed belts and cannot run the flex fan with that set up at higher rpms because of harmonics, so I have plenty of room for the cross brace and not just to the towers only!! For street op, I run a quick release coupler for the flex fan and can put it back on for stop and go driving and can pull it off to remove it fast for maintenance or racing. The brace won't fit with the flex fan, so I have to put the spreader bar back on for the street! !
I also no longer run any shins with the SPC/Pole position arms! Just before changing to those units, I had three suspension setups, instead of shims I had color painted coded machined wedges to give me my castor and cambers that I preferred!
I see I missed deleting in this thread my unique capable of being flipped pillow blocks to change sway bar size fast, and the rear spring bolt config, I used to run!
Hi,
Do you have extra long A-arm studs on your car.Do you know where I can find some?
Stefan
[QUOTE=ronarndt;1595510381]
spreader bar brace. one ugly weld shows
Originally Posted by TCracingCA
A big block really can benefit from a spreader bar, but you would have to engineer that in on a big block. Fitting one on a big block car is more difficult than a small block. Thus some guys actually cross brace the frame at points below where a spreader bar mounts.
This is when I was running solid uppers, how I had my spreader bar engineered, before switching to the SPC's
TCracing- wish I had seen your design before I fabricated the spreader bar brackets for my 68 BB. I used angle iron and welded the tabs for the Heim joint attachment point. Yours is much neater. RA
sh454- as far as I know, they are the stock length. I did not change them from what was on the car when I bought it. Even with a few shims in place, they were long enough to add the angle iron bracket for the spreader bar. RA
sh454- as far as I know, they are the stock length. I did not change them from what was on the car when I bought it. Even with a few shims in place, they were long enough to add the angle iron bracket for the spreader bar. RA
The weld in studs with cotter pin holes I was talking about from Global West are for the crosshaft ends!
The crossshaft shim bolts are kind of peened in and have seen a few tack welded in place, and I have seen them loose. They can be knocked out easy and a longer bolt substituted. If you are having too many shims stacked up, then I would recommend the Moog Offset Crossshafts!
TCracingCA said "The crossshaft shim bolts are kind of peened in and have seen a few tack welded in place, and I have seen them loose"
Mine were loose, but fit tightly enough that they did not turn when tightening the nut on the other end.
I haven't over the years hung out on C3, but I think I am the person with the most resurrected posts on C2 (I am retired on there now, and super rarely on C3 now)! I spend time now mostly exclusively on PRC and do searches of my most recent posts as to where I left off over there, or as to what people said after I replied to a topic and then see like an old topic show up in the current is how I see these post resurrections!
