Oil Change Frequency
I was looking up something in my owner's manual to answer another post when I happened upon this:
*Use only SE engine oil
*Change oil each 6 months or 7500 miles, whichever occurs first, except under the following conditions:
-driving in dusty conditions
-trailer pulling
-extensive idling
-short trip operation at freezing temperatures (engine not warmed up)
*Under these conditions , change oil each 3 months or 3000 miles, whichever occurs first
I was surprised that the recommendation in '76 was 7500 miles, so I looked at my '74 owner's manual and it also said to use SE oil but to change it every 4 months or 6000 miles except for the same conditions as the '76 it should be 2 months or 3000 miles. I think the difference is due to the ability to run low lead gas in it.
{Sorry, boyz....too little, too late!!}
{Sorry, boyz....too little, too late!!}
This is a huge problem with new GM vehicles right now. everyone waits for the change oil light to come on (between 5,000 and 8,000 miles on average) and then wait another few thousand miles to get the oil changed because they are too busy or forget. next thing you know it's been 10,000 miles, the oil is low and gunked up in your engine, and you need a timing chain replacement because the heat stretched them and the CEL is on.
My 1977 had low enough miles about 44,000 on it so I switched over to Valvoline Full Synthetic Oil. If your car is going to sit longs periods of time Every fall is what I do even if I only drove it 1500 miles that summer so it has fresh oil in it through the winter months.
Last edited by MakoJoe; Jun 1, 2013 at 08:16 PM.
The manufacturers had no control over safety and emissions laws, couldn't stop the imports nor the generally good press the imports had, so adding longer service intervals was a cheap way to draw customers.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Spark Plugs I tend to use Bosch Platinum Plugs with 2 to 4 contact points so I never have to gap them and they are rated at 50,000 miles.
Wires are changed as long as Chimp Monks do not eat them in the fall which has happened multiple times over the 7 years I owned the Miata. Little buggers ATE MY WIRES almost every year for 4 years running in the fall months :back:
When I put my cars to bed for the winter I use Stabil fuel stabilizer, Marvel Mystery Oil and to top it all off HEET to remove any water on a full tank of fuel and start the car at least once or twice a month while it is sitting and will let it run for about 20 minutes so it fully warms up than on occasions take it out when outdoor temps are above 50 degrees outside and no sand or snow on the roads just to work it for about 20 miles.
Last edited by MakoJoe; Jun 2, 2013 at 12:44 AM.





Since I do mostly highway driving to and from work, I change my oil every 10,000 miles on the 82, 5,000 to 6000 on the Vibe, and when I get the 74 back together, it may be once every 3 years depending on the mileage I put on.

I only use regular oil in the Vibe, and now the Vibe has 121,000 miles and does not use any oil. The 82 and previous vehicles has used Mobil 1 or equivalent. I put 96,000 miles on my HHR SS in 4 years, never used a drop of oil. In the beginning I changed more often, but after break-in, it was 10,000 mile change intervals.
I know everyone has their feeling on oil and oil changes, and in my younger days I did change every 3000 to 3500 miles. But with the advancement of today's oils, and the type of driving I do, the 10,000 mile change is just fine for me......
The oil in my engine always looks very good. I have a customer who changes her oil in her Dodge pick up every 3,000. At 150,000 I had to replace her tranny. While I was that far in, I dropped the pan and took a look around. I dropped the number five main. The bearings looked and mic'ed just like the day the truck was built. Still at idel held between 40 and 50 psi and ran at about 70 psi.
My personal truck still holds about the same pressures as hers, at 209,000. If I get late on a change I don't have anything to be concerned with.
Looks good to me.
Use the truck for towing too, but have 2 oil filters installed, change at 10,000 miles, but FI makes a difference in contamination.
If really concerned to a lab analysis.
Folks who drive very little with their collector cars tend to use full-synthetic oil, as it doesn't have the 'aging' effects of organic oil. In an all-aluminum engine, synthetic oils can last up to 10K miles or more. But, in a cast-iron engine that continually 'bleeds' imbedded carbon particles, it should probably be changed more often.
Folks who drive very little with their collector cars tend to use full-synthetic oil, as it doesn't have the 'aging' effects of organic oil. In an all-aluminum engine, synthetic oils can last up to 10K miles or more. But, in a cast-iron engine that continually 'bleeds' imbedded carbon particles, it should probably be changed more often.
Oils are a LOT better today then they were just 10 years ago.
Now for classic cars that don't get driven as much then once a year since its driven less than 5k on most. Just make sure use the right oil if you have a flat tappet cam. I run 4qts of 15w40 and 1qt of 5w30 syn myself.
Hmm new oil spot after conversion will have to put the car on the lift this coming weekend then retorque some of the gaskets on the pan and other areas. I did the valve cover gaskets during the conversion and put longer arm Mr Gasket long reach clamp downs on the valve covers. But now I will inspect all the other cover gaskets and retroque them down with a 1/4 inch torque wrench and about 60 inch pounds of torque.



















