Oil leak
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Racer
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 420
Likes: 0
Oil leak
Ok was under there today on my 74 fixing some coolant leaks. Found oil dripping oil pan gasket is new from previous owner cleaned it up but the oil seems to be coming from just above that.
Timing cover gasket ???
I was planing on doing the timing chain this winter
What do you guys think of putting a beed of rtv gasket material around the outside of the timing cover
Anyone tried this temporary fix
Timing cover gasket ???
I was planing on doing the timing chain this winter
What do you guys think of putting a beed of rtv gasket material around the outside of the timing cover
Anyone tried this temporary fix
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 926
Likes: 2
From: Castle Rock CO
Chances are if you pull the cover it will break the current paper gasket and attempting to put RTV Sealant over the leak probably will not work very well because the RTV is meant to stick to the gasket and fill the uneven surfaces when torquing down the bolts.
If you purchase the premium Fel Pro Gaskets they do not need RTV. I just found a leak in my pan gasket recently so I will need to fix it this winter. Next time I have it up on the lift I will re-torque the bolts using the suggested specs.
For my Valve covers I purchased the long arm Mr. Gasket hold down clamps and torqued down each bolt to 60 Inch Pounds of torque using a 1/4 inch Torque Wrench. I would check the book to see what each gasket needs for torque so each bolt is evenly tightened.
You might be able to seal the leak just by checking the torque on each bolt since the gaskets will compress over time especially if they are cork gaskets.
If you purchase the premium Fel Pro Gaskets they do not need RTV. I just found a leak in my pan gasket recently so I will need to fix it this winter. Next time I have it up on the lift I will re-torque the bolts using the suggested specs.
For my Valve covers I purchased the long arm Mr. Gasket hold down clamps and torqued down each bolt to 60 Inch Pounds of torque using a 1/4 inch Torque Wrench. I would check the book to see what each gasket needs for torque so each bolt is evenly tightened.
You might be able to seal the leak just by checking the torque on each bolt since the gaskets will compress over time especially if they are cork gaskets.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 7,123
Likes: 433
From: Gladstone MO
C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
Use a 1/4 drive 7/16 deep socket. The bolt heads are close to the cover. IF they're not loose, I'd go after the balancer seal. If it's got a groove in the snout (seal surface), it'll drip. Good news is there's a speedi-sleeve made by Fel-Pro for just that application.
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 926
Likes: 2
From: Castle Rock CO
I like to use a 1/4 inch torque wrench and long sockets than in some areas a swival and short socket than possibly an extension may be needed also to move around other parts in the way. It all depends on what covers you are attempting to reach and how to get to the bolts. Sometimes it requires lots of patience when reaching into areas that are hard to get to.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 926
Likes: 2
From: Castle Rock CO
The harmonic balancer requires a remover tool to get it off the engine.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...uller/_/N-2640
and possibly an installer tool to put it back on.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...questid=522250
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...uller/_/N-2640
and possibly an installer tool to put it back on.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...questid=522250
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 7,123
Likes: 433
From: Gladstone MO
C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
No pressure, just lots of splash. ANd the crank seal is low enough there's lots of oil around there.
I'd recommend using both the tools for the balancer- you'll destroy the balancer trying to get it off without the puller. I've used a 2x4 and a big hammer lots of times to install, but it's really hard on the thrust bearing and really doesn't do anything any good. And since you can rent them from just about any chain auto parts store anymore, it just makes sense to use it. Make sure you thread the installer all the way onto the crank, and use a touch of oil on the big nut.
I'd recommend using both the tools for the balancer- you'll destroy the balancer trying to get it off without the puller. I've used a 2x4 and a big hammer lots of times to install, but it's really hard on the thrust bearing and really doesn't do anything any good. And since you can rent them from just about any chain auto parts store anymore, it just makes sense to use it. Make sure you thread the installer all the way onto the crank, and use a touch of oil on the big nut.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 5,943
Likes: 61
From: Southern NH
also the old seal could wear a grove in the balancer. You could either change the balancer at the same time as the seal, (best solution) get a repair sleeve for the old balancer, (they work) or get a seal with an offset sealing surface (never used one)
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 926
Likes: 2
From: Castle Rock CO
The harmonic balencer is not easy to get to if the engine is still install in the car unless you have access to a lift and get to from the underside of the car. Ramps might work but hinder your access because of ground clearence. The cooling system components are always in the way and might get away with just removing the fan and fan shroud
I have never attempted it before while the engine is in the car and in my past experience the engine was sitting a engine stand some 25 years ago when I moved my harmonic balancer from one engine to an another so I have no experience of attempting to do it while the engine is still installed.
I have never attempted it before while the engine is in the car and in my past experience the engine was sitting a engine stand some 25 years ago when I moved my harmonic balancer from one engine to an another so I have no experience of attempting to do it while the engine is still installed.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 926
Likes: 2
From: Castle Rock CO
Putting RTV on the outside of a housing will not stick well unless you remove all the oil and grime.
As I stated earlier torqueing the bolts will probably solve the problem and a 1/4 inch torque is cheap if you buy this one. I bought mine on sale for half this price.
If the timing cover crank shaft seal is bad none of this will solve the problem
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-4-qua...ench-2696.html
Last edited by MakoJoe; Jun 2, 2013 at 12:58 AM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 5,943
Likes: 61
From: Southern NH
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,039
Likes: 62
From: Kona Hawaii
Also check the fuel pump where it bolts up to the block.There are two gaskets ,one for the plate and one for the pump.Most likely it's the timing cover,balancer seal and or the oil pan front seal.You'll need to drop the pan to replace the timing cover gasket.If you try to do it without dropping the pan you'll most likely get leaks.As stated use the puller and installer on the balancer.Do not beat on the balancer or try to force it on with a bolt.You could snap the bolt off in the crank,or strip the threads,and then have a bigger problem on your hands.I have changed the cam twice while the engine is in the car it's doable,but the shroud and radiator were removed.Did you eliminate the front of the intake manifold? Good Luck
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 215
Likes: 0
From: Sunshine Coast Qld
@ the OP, make sure the blanking bolt isn't missing from the front of the fuel pump boss as well.