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going to install arp header studs,small block aluminum heads,question on studs,should i use antiseize on the studs or loctite?want to be able to remove them if needed,my concern is if i use loctite will the aluminum heads be ok without antiseize?or can you use both loctite and antiseize so that they stay put and you don't have thread galling?appreciate any advise. Ernie
For any steel or iron that goes into aluminum heads I use a little antiseize (includes spark plugs). I've never had to use Loctite on any exhaust bolts. If the header bolts loosen, it's because of the gasket wearing away. Just re-tighten after a about a month's driving and you'll be good to go.
Dude, you can't use anti-seize and loc-tite together!!!! That's how you wind up in another dimension!!!!!!
Any bolt that goes into aluminum will be much easier to remove, down the road, if you smear a dab of anti-seize on the threads before you screw it in. If you're worried about the stud unscrewing when you try to remove the nut, just deal with it, and remove the nut from the stud, and screw the stud back in. On good quality studs, there should be a way to put a wrench of some kind on the stud while you loosen the nut, anyway.
just another thought, header gaskets do go bad and I have found that to change the gasket without loosening up the collecter,hence replacing that gasket and possibly removing the clamps at the tranny mount to get the clearance for the headers to move off the studs, ARP makes stainless 12 point sbc header bolt kit. not only do they look great but are easy to work with. 5/16 or 3/8 heads on bolts forget which. going this way allowes you to remove the 4 inner bolts and back off the outer 2 to change gasket.
going to install arp header studs,small block aluminum heads,question on studs,should i use antiseize on the studs or loctite?want to be able to remove them if needed,my concern is if i use loctite will the aluminum heads be ok without antiseize?or can you use both loctite and antiseize so that they stay put and you don't have thread galling?appreciate any advise. Ernie
Mine are all loctighted in because I never remove them unless they go to a machine shop. The best stud is the ARP universal 1 1/2 with the 3/8th hex nut. You can't get a 12 point tool on 12 point nuts with on 1 3/4 primary headers
Use FelPro blue steel header gaskets. I use the D-port for bigger AFR, Brodix, Dart heads.
I use a dab of Permitex high temp red on the end of the nut and stud once they are tight and they never back off.
I've been doing aluminum headed motors for years. You can see locktight red and blue because I must have run out running out around the studs in my pic's
Mine are all loctighted in because I never remove them unless they go to a machine shop. The best stud is the ARP universal 1 1/2 with the 3/8th hex nut. You can't get a 12 tool on 12 nuts with on 1 3/4 primary headers
Use FelPro blue steel header gaskets. I use the D-port for bigger AFR, Brodix, Dart heads.
I use a dab of Permitex high temp red on the end of the nut and stud once they are tight and they never back off.
I've been doing aluminum headed motors for years. You can see locktight red and blue because I must have run out running out around the studs in my pic's
gkull,thanks for the tips on gaskets and permitex,you have quite the car there,lots of commitment and effort put into your build.i am new to the aluminum head application,its been thirty years since the last hotrod build.but enjoying the process once again.i have done a lot of research about torque specs for spark plugs and alternator brackets mounted to aluminum heads,there seems to be a variance depending on who you speak with.general consensus 18 ft lbs. what would you recommend?
gkull,thanks for the tips on gaskets and permitex,you have quite the car there,lots of commitment and effort put into your build.i am new to the aluminum head application,its been thirty years since the last hotrod build.but enjoying the process once again.i have done a lot of research about torque specs for spark plugs and alternator brackets mounted to aluminum heads,there seems to be a variance depending on who you speak with.general consensus 18 ft lbs. what would you recommend?
On race cars I have stud sockets that grab the threads. It ends up screwing up the threads if you don't have it tight before you hit the air gun. At home I just double nut the studs and I just tighten and let dry.
Lock washers on AC brackets to aluminum heads
Spark plugs .. always Anti-seize and just hand tight. You did not say what heads. Like using 3/4 deep reach I use autolight ap3924's gapped to about .045
All my motors are totally studded. I started out 25 years ago as a pit crew guy and the alki injected winged sprint car would come roaring into the pits after a round sputtering with a broken valve spring and bent valve. and the next heat race was an hour away. It was Kevlar heat gloves and air guns to rip the heads off and have it back together to fire and go.