When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
That's not really an apples to apple's comparison considering they didn't compare against any dual planes. Was interesting though. Thanks for sharing.
Hi bluedawg, you are right it is not an apples to apples comparison. What it was meant to indicate is that you can obtain good torque numbers from a single plane manifold, maybe not as good as a dual plane but still very usable.
As you know, one of the challenges we face with our cars is lack of hood clearance.
Many of the single plane manifolds as noted provide good torque as well as the lowered pad height in order to keep the stock hood.
Incidentally, I believe the L-88 hood is less than an inch taller than a stock 77 - L82 hood, so depending on the intake manifold that is chosen the standard L-88 hood may still not be tall enough to provide the required clearance.
Yes, I know I'm resurrecting a 3 year old thread. I apologize for that.
For those of you using a K&N with your L88 CAI hood and had to use foam to keep the K&N in place in the hood, how did you make sure the foam didn't dislodge from the filter?
I am in the process of installing a 14x3 K&N in my L88 hood but it's loose and I can't get the weatherstripping to stick to the top of the filter. I tried the Home Depot stuff with the adhesive and also 3M super weatherstrip adhesive, hot glue and rubber contact cement but nothing seems to stick to the rubber on the top and bottom of the K&N filter. The rubber is very slick, and I haven't tried roughing it up at all but I'm afraid to ruin a $50 filter and the foam still won't stick.
i believe the Eckler long L-88 is higher then stock L-88 hood.i am using eldobrock air gap and still all kinds of room.my problem is the car is is way to fast for me at 70yo .i have highly modified 700r-4 with world champ build 409" sbc. i put foot on brake rev. to 2600 and mash down on gas and the giant nitto`s just break loose and few turns.front of car lifts off ground and left front wheel has air under it. i cannot control car in straight line so i do on 3 lane highway. car goes 7 grand and shifts ist to second.what i am doing wrong?.
i believe the Eckler long L-88 is higher then stock L-88 hood.i am using eldobrock air gap and still all kinds of room.my problem is the car is is way to fast for me at 70yo .i have highly modified 700r-4 with world champ build 409" sbc. i put foot on brake rev. to 2600 and mash down on gas and the giant nitto`s just break loose and few turns.front of car lifts off ground and left front wheel has air under it. i cannot control car in straight line so i do on 3 lane highway. car goes 7 grand and shifts ist to second.what i am doing wrong?.
the heat above the SS headers at the AFR cylinder heads heads is 270 degrees so i feel fresh air from the cowl is almost essential. i installed parogon kit with duel inlet to cowl.all sealed and glassed in with radius corners on intake edge at cowl end of hood.
Captain Bob, if you're breaking your tires loose and the front end is lifting, I am not sure you're doing anything wrong other than you have tons of power. You may have to work on the rear suspension a little to make it plant and hook. Obviously, wheelie bars would help reduce the front end lift and make the rear hook better, but not sure that's the direction you want to go.
Captain Bob, if you're breaking your tires loose and the front end is lifting, I am not sure you're doing anything wrong other than you have tons of power. You may have to work on the rear suspension a little to make it plant and hook. Obviously, wheelie bars would help reduce the front end lift and make the rear hook better, but not sure that's the direction you want to go.
Just wanted to let everyone know that I figured out a solution to the adhesive issue with the help of a friend. He surmised (correctly I think) that the rubber end caps on the K&N filter were silicone rubber and that's why nothing would stick to it. I tried some black RTV Silicone in a tube and it glued the weatherstrip perfectly. Problem solved.
i should update photo,all four tires were changed to nitto drag radials in rear and 235/70/15 nitto brand performance in front which fill the stock fender wells perfectly.i had drop air cleaner with open air filter runs better with cowl induction L-88 set up but like i said the cut out in rear of hood are perfect and blend into the two under-hood ducts.been 50 years since i have been to track and have no idea how they 0 to 60 mph drive a auto vehicle like this. the wheel only break loose enough for a chirp with 20 pounds of air in rear tires. i have billstein shocks all new poly (upper,lower, ball joints,A-frame,hein joints ,all new Moog universals.everything light up front (w/p,fans,manifold,heads,all a/c removed.) street car use sometimes for drag race or high speed run on the highway also car shows every week.very hard to hold car at line when exceeding 2400 rpm, convertor is 2600 rpm.fabulous brakes will not hold that power back.
Last edited by Captain bob; Aug 13, 2016 at 06:03 PM.
mike i don`t want to install line lock actually i have never even seen it installed just to much for street driven grandpa`s car. some people with c-6/c-7 at local show say no power brake just floor it on take off what do you do?(car is a dog under 2000 rpm due to cam)