Engine guys help?
Last edited by shua1269; Jun 19, 2013 at 04:24 PM.
For the 396 piston idea, the size and geometry of the wrist-pin location in the piston would need to be the same; also, the piston rod would need to fit on the 400 crank and to piston wrist-pin. Not sure who would know that info other than a place that sells those pistons and rods.





No...you can't use BBC 396 ones.
JIM
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Things aren't always what they seem -
When I have bought pistons (say, .030 over) from a good manufacturer (I usually used Wiseco), they actually measure about .025 over. With a 'true' .030 over-bore in your block, that gives you .005 clearance - a good stating point. A .029 over-bore and a .025 piston will give you .004 clearance, a little tight for forged pistons and a little loose for hyperutectic pistons. Measure both bore and pistons to see where you stand.
Talk to your trusted machine shop, tell them what your pistons measure out (or bring them the pistons) and they should be able to get you whatever clearance that you want.
If you don't want to do the measuring, then new .030 (.025) over pistons and a new .030 over-bore will probably work most of the time. Your gamble.
Good luck.
walt
sbc 400 (509 Block 2bolt main)
fresh bore(.030) and hone
flat top srp pistons
6" rods
callies stealth crank Shaft.
I the opportunity to get a new crane cam PN: CC-320A-NC for super cheap. Description from Jegz says RPM 5000-8600; Adv. Dur. 320 Int./Exh.; Valve Lift .599 Int./Exh.; Lobe Angle 108 deg.; Jegz part number 114721
I also have access to a weiand team-g single pane intake.
What Heads should I go with this set up? Should I find a different cam? Different Intake?



Take some more time to think about exactly what you want from the motor. Then pick the heads, then pick the intake, then pick the cam to
match those components and your desires. (For the engine! Get your minds out of the gutter!
) Your shortblock sounds good, .030 over 6" rod 400 will make great power, and be very streetable, with the right components!
BTW, back in the early 80's, a 509 was a choice block to build a sprint car motor out of. Splayed 4 bolt caps, Carillo rods, cant remember what kind of crank, Brodix heads, proper machine work.
Also, I dont think we'd bat an eye on 60 over, especially for a streeter. Cant remember for sure, could be wrong.
Good luck on the build, GA
Even if the cam you have is REALLY cheap - $50.00 or less - it may not be what you expect on the street. No vacuum for headlights, brakes, etc. And not much performance until you really get it wound up. This motor is too small to be able to 'cover up' the low rpm weakness like a bigger motor would. Lots of clutch slip (or a loose converter - 4000 rpm or better) will be needed to get going from a stop.
Nice cam for the strip or for comparing cam specs (Mine is bigger than yours) while bench racing, but for street fun, I'd dial back the specs, especially duration and have more fun.
Just for comparison, my race cam was 305 adv duration (285 @ .050) and 570 lift in a 362 small block. It had no vacuum and would hardly idle below 1500. But with a 5000 rpm stall converter and 456 gears, it would run great at the strip.
But do what you want (that's what is called "experience"). You can always change cams later.
Good luck.
walt














