78 Harmonic balancer replacement in car?
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Joined: Dec 2004
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From: Barrie Ontario
78 Harmonic balancer replacement in car?
My timing mark has spun on me, so I got a new balancer and the proper puller / installer tools. (free rental at Part Source 
)
I just wondering if anyone have done this with the engine in the car and what I should expect.
I assume the fan shroud should come out to make some room. Is it worth it to remove the hood as well?
If the engine turns over when I am removing the pully, what is the best method to stop it?
Any help is appreciated.
Thanks.
Mark.
)I just wondering if anyone have done this with the engine in the car and what I should expect.
I assume the fan shroud should come out to make some room. Is it worth it to remove the hood as well?
If the engine turns over when I am removing the pully, what is the best method to stop it?
Any help is appreciated.
Thanks.
Mark.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 7,123
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From: Gladstone MO
C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
No real need to remove the hood, just figure out how to secure it so it won't release and drop on you.
If the engine turns while you're cranking on the puller, you can either put a prybar thru the bolts on the puller or put it between the bellhousing and flexplate/flywheel.
I'd also replace the front seal while the balancer is off.
If the engine turns while you're cranking on the puller, you can either put a prybar thru the bolts on the puller or put it between the bellhousing and flexplate/flywheel.
I'd also replace the front seal while the balancer is off.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
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From: Charlotte NC
NO NEED to remove the fan shroud. A waste of time. I have serviced numerous and do not take out the fan shroud to do this job.
As for the bolts turning...I use an air impact and they spin right out...but holding the flywheel...like previously mentioned is you only option...unless you can hold onto the pulley while trying to turn the socket to get the bolt loose. Often times installing the belt and holding it will give you enough bind to get the bolt loose also.
DUB
As for the bolts turning...I use an air impact and they spin right out...but holding the flywheel...like previously mentioned is you only option...unless you can hold onto the pulley while trying to turn the socket to get the bolt loose. Often times installing the belt and holding it will give you enough bind to get the bolt loose also.
DUB
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2009
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From: Providence RI
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 94
Likes: 0
From: Barrie Ontario
Help
Trouble,
Ok got the old balancer off and a new seal in and I install the new balncer to where I think is it's finish position. (can barely turn installer, sudden increase in torque required) Put the pullies back on and look at alignment. Not even close, at least 1/4" to much stick out. I remove the new balancer and measure it thinking it must be different or something, nope same size.
For some reason when installing I am hitting a very sticky spot that feels like it has bottomed out. The bore of the balancer looks clean and I can see how far it was pressed on and it is not enough (1/4")
My thoughts now is to heat up the balancer in the oven (200 deg) for a bit and try again. How hot can I safely go.
Anyone else run into this?
Update.
Tried this and no go. It will not go any further. I am scared to put any more torqre on the assembly. I'm 6'5" 250 and I can barely move the wrench. I sure feels like it has hit something solid.
Any ideas?
Ok got the old balancer off and a new seal in and I install the new balncer to where I think is it's finish position. (can barely turn installer, sudden increase in torque required) Put the pullies back on and look at alignment. Not even close, at least 1/4" to much stick out. I remove the new balancer and measure it thinking it must be different or something, nope same size.
For some reason when installing I am hitting a very sticky spot that feels like it has bottomed out. The bore of the balancer looks clean and I can see how far it was pressed on and it is not enough (1/4")
My thoughts now is to heat up the balancer in the oven (200 deg) for a bit and try again. How hot can I safely go.
Anyone else run into this?
Update.
Tried this and no go. It will not go any further. I am scared to put any more torqre on the assembly. I'm 6'5" 250 and I can barely move the wrench. I sure feels like it has hit something solid.
Any ideas?
Last edited by FLEXUSMARK; Jun 22, 2013 at 01:16 PM. Reason: Aditional information
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 94
Likes: 0
From: Barrie Ontario
Took the new balancer off and took another look. The only physical difference is that the outer ring of the new balancer is 1-1/2" thick which is about .200" thicker that the stock version. This extra material would stick out back into the engine when installed. The hub dia and length are identical. (same total height)
Can someone tell me what face of the balancer should make contact and seat with the crank? I assume it is has to be the face of the hub that goes through the seal first.
Can someone tell me what face of the balancer should make contact and seat with the crank? I assume it is has to be the face of the hub that goes through the seal first.
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