Fuel for a 1972
He indicated it should take regular unleaded.
Does that sound right? Should I be adding something to it?
If you want to spend extra money to show how much you care I recommend a lead substitute with regular fuel over the high octane stuff if anything it will have more benefit. I recommend fuel stabilizer if your car sits for weeks... had my brand new Carb plug with a clear jelly substance this spring from sitting for three months.... what a mess.
Last edited by augiedoggy; Jul 9, 2013 at 08:58 AM.
If your timing is setup as most here will recommend, to achieve maximum performance, and you run 87 octane fuel, you will most likely experience pinging under heavy acceleration.
Try using lower octane fuel, and see if you get any pinging under heavy acceleration. If you do, then either switch to higher octane, or retard your timing.
I totally overlooked the timing.... guess I was thinking that was more for guys running recurved distributors that stock setup.. OK I'll eat crow on some of what I said earlier...being a carved engine It seems changes things a bit vs fuel injection...
http://chemistry.about.com/od/chemis...ine-to-buy.htm
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
I took it in for a general inspection. The auto shop indicated that in the older cars the lead served as a lubricant for the valves. When they switched to unleaded, most owners replaced the softer valves with hardened valves.
Running unleaded if it wasn't converted could damage to the valves. They said there was no way to know if this was done without pulling it apart.
Therefore, they recommended I add a lead enhancer every time I filled it up. They said it wouldn't hurt either way and would protect the engine if they hadn't been replaced.
Does that make sense or sound off?
I took it in for a general inspection. The auto shop indicated that in the older cars the lead served as a lubricant for the valves. When they switched to unleaded, most owners replaced the softer valves with hardened valves.
Running unleaded if it wasn't converted could damage to the valves. They said there was no way to know if this was done without pulling it apart.
Therefore, they recommended I add a lead enhancer every time I filled it up. They said it wouldn't hurt either way and would protect the engine if they hadn't been replaced.
Does that make sense or sound off?
But after a quick Google search I can confirm that the 72 was designed for leaded or unleaded fuel.
In my research the lowest HP L48 engines were produced in 1975 and in 1976 they started to learn how the increase the HP again with the 8 to 1 compression making way for the unleaded fuels. Most of the late 60s engines were false reported when it came to actual drive train for HP and Torque they took the results straight off the engine with open exhaust systems when on the Dyno.
Many of the Big 4 of the time would lie on the actual HP in the late 60s when Muscle Cars were so powerful they could kill you on the engine so the buyer would have lower Insurance premiums.
The only engines at the time were the L82 engines with 9 to 1 compression that needed the higher octane fuels and this continued till they did away with L82 in 1982.
Here is a little history thanks to Wiki
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chevrolet_Corvette_(C3)
Last edited by MakoJoe; Jul 12, 2013 at 12:23 AM.
In was in the early 1980s I think 1986 was the last you saw leaded fuel in rural areas and the USA quite selling Leaded Fuels they added fuel additives to use in older engines. Most of the leaded fuels were used in Rural areas of the country but most of the urban areas you could not purchase it anymore.
I took it in for a general inspection. The auto shop indicated that in the older cars the lead served as a lubricant for the valves. When they switched to unleaded, most owners replaced the softer valves with hardened valves.
Running unleaded if it wasn't converted could damage to the valves. They said there was no way to know if this was done without pulling it apart.
Therefore, they recommended I add a lead enhancer every time I filled it up. They said it wouldn't hurt either way and would protect the engine if they hadn't been replaced.
Does that make sense or sound off?
1) cars from '71 onwards came factory equipped with hardened valve seats
2) nobody pulled engines part back then just for the fun of it. Very very few had hardened seats installed just 'because the sky might fall'
3) 40 years later we know that cars, especially light weight sports cars like Corvettes, never ever have valve seat problems, even pre '71 engines.
But the myths still persist and the misinformed just can't seem to stop spreading them.





1) cars from '71 onwards came factory equipped with hardened valve seats
2) nobody pulled engines part back then just for the fun of it. Very very few had hardened seats installed just 'because the sky might fall'
3) 40 years later we know that cars, especially light weight sports cars like Corvettes, never ever have valve seat problems, even pre '71 engines.
But the myths still persist and the misinformed just can't seem to stop spreading them.

In later studies done by the SAE in the mid-70's (I get the papers), they found that the hardened seats were not required except in rare cases of heavy vehicles pulling continuous heavy loads up extended inclines at or near WOT, such as a 3/4 ton truck pulling a loaded horsetrailer up the Eisenhower Pass on I-70 in Colorado. In this case, the Exhaust Gas Temperature (EGT) could get high enough to start exhaust valve erosion in some cases. Unless you plan on pulling an 8-horse horsetrailer at WOT with your Vette, there is no gain (and considerable risk from faulty installation) of installing hardened seats. The engines we build out here with original pre-'70 heads are never built with hardened seats, and they perform flawlessly. Anybody who tells you that hardened seat wives' tale is technically not aware of the facts on the subject.
As for octane, the advertised comp ratio on your 72 is only 9 to 1. This means that the actual ratio is under 8.5 to 1. There is no gain whatsoever running higher octane than neccessary to suppress detonation, and you can't get detonation, no matter how aggressive your timing curve is, on an 8.5 to 1 engine. Just run regular unleaded and forget all the BS you hear about the "gas problem."
Lars
I stand corrected. Very sorry for the bad info.
I have had my base engine 72 for 5 years, and the block is original, and the numbers and dates on the heads make them appear to be original, so I assumed everything in the motor was original.
I've set up my carb, and distributor according to your papers, the car runs greats. But when I run regular unleaded, I definately get some pinging under WOT at higher RPM.
What do you think could be causing that? Would a cam change in the past be causing it? Or should I look at the timing some more? I have about 10 initial, 36 total mechanical, and 56 total.
Thanks!
Hell I should be brain dead with all the lead I breathed as a child and not to mention all the paint chips I consumed from lead in the paint LOL


















