Replace brake lines...
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,889
Likes: 23
From: Kansas
I replaced all the lines with Stainless Steel, I think they were only 20.00 more. The hardest bolts were the 2 or 3 along the frame. I used a radiator hose removal tool, to locate the holes in the frame. I wouldn't of reused all of the bolts holding the lines on, but I had a friend who was a retired G. M. he forced me into getting them all replaced. LOL Take your time. I used Classic Tube, 1-800-882-3711 Never had any problems with fitting or leaking. Gene
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 10,684
Likes: 696
From: Danville Illinois
2025 Corvette of the Year Finalist - Modified
2024 C3 of the Year Winner - Modified
2021 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2019 C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods)
Replaced the line from the control valve to the pass side front wheel, went pretty easy. Used a lift.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 40,408
Likes: 792
From: Redondo Beach, California
I've done this several times. At first it seems impossible. By the third time, its relatively easy.
First of all why buy steel lines? Buy stainless steel lines. The cost is not much more. Also order stainless steel fittings, once again a small extra cost. I've bought all my lines from In-Line tubing. Also, I think you must buy all new brass distribution and junction blocks...especially if you're going with stainless steel fittings.
Probably 6 years ago, I had detailed instructions on how to do this. First of all..most important..when you remove your old lines do not cut them off into sections to make removal easy. You need to learn how to remove the very long line from the front of the car to the rear in one piece..why? because the new is going in in one piece. When you train yourself to remove the old line in one piece, you now can install the new in one piece..you just do things in reverse.
The brass distribution block in the rear drivers side frame pocket where the brake lines split off to the rear right caliper and the rear left caliper is probably the most challenging. In my 68, I could not get a tubing wrench on the fasteners. I had to have it bent slightly with a torch to fit. On the 70, the standard tubing wrench fit just fine.
I used torque wrenches tightening up all the fittings,...except for the rear driver's side frame pocket where I had to do it by feel. Fitting stainless steel into the brass blocks...don't torque everything up on one go. Torque up below specified torques, and then unscrew. Torque up again a little firmer, and then un-torque, Now after two or three times, torque up to specified levels. This tightening and loosening activity helps smooth everything together. I had no leaks on the 68 whatsoever, the 70 has not be completely bolted up yet.
.......................
With all new brake lines, new calipers, etc...an all new dry brake system, I installed silicon bake fluid. I used gravity feed for my initial brake fluid bleed. Got a soft pedal, but OK. Drove the car to Guildstrand's Motor Sports in Burbank,Ca and had them bleed the brake fluid professionally. HARD AS A ROCK with silicon. I have manual brakes on the 68, so the hard brake pedal is a comfort. I installed silicon so I didn't have to worry about water in the brake fluid.
First of all why buy steel lines? Buy stainless steel lines. The cost is not much more. Also order stainless steel fittings, once again a small extra cost. I've bought all my lines from In-Line tubing. Also, I think you must buy all new brass distribution and junction blocks...especially if you're going with stainless steel fittings.
Probably 6 years ago, I had detailed instructions on how to do this. First of all..most important..when you remove your old lines do not cut them off into sections to make removal easy. You need to learn how to remove the very long line from the front of the car to the rear in one piece..why? because the new is going in in one piece. When you train yourself to remove the old line in one piece, you now can install the new in one piece..you just do things in reverse.
The brass distribution block in the rear drivers side frame pocket where the brake lines split off to the rear right caliper and the rear left caliper is probably the most challenging. In my 68, I could not get a tubing wrench on the fasteners. I had to have it bent slightly with a torch to fit. On the 70, the standard tubing wrench fit just fine.
I used torque wrenches tightening up all the fittings,...except for the rear driver's side frame pocket where I had to do it by feel. Fitting stainless steel into the brass blocks...don't torque everything up on one go. Torque up below specified torques, and then unscrew. Torque up again a little firmer, and then un-torque, Now after two or three times, torque up to specified levels. This tightening and loosening activity helps smooth everything together. I had no leaks on the 68 whatsoever, the 70 has not be completely bolted up yet.
.......................
With all new brake lines, new calipers, etc...an all new dry brake system, I installed silicon bake fluid. I used gravity feed for my initial brake fluid bleed. Got a soft pedal, but OK. Drove the car to Guildstrand's Motor Sports in Burbank,Ca and had them bleed the brake fluid professionally. HARD AS A ROCK with silicon. I have manual brakes on the 68, so the hard brake pedal is a comfort. I installed silicon so I didn't have to worry about water in the brake fluid.
