When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Don't have any experience with powder coating, so I can't say if it's better or worse, but I have used POR15, and I have to say, it's pretty pricey, but it's worth it. If you use it, try not to get any on your hands, that stuff takes days of scrubbing to get off! If it sticks to metal the same way it stuck to my hands, it'll never come off.
I got a quote for a buddy that wants to media blast and powdercoat his Jeep CJ5 chassis. I was told about $650. I did not ask for a break down of the two processes. media blast + POR 15 may be more.
Hi Ron,
From the pictures people post it seems the POR 15 coating gives quite a different appearance than powder coating... does that matter to you?
Regards,
Alan
If Your Car is gonna be a Garage Queen POR15 will hold up just fine , and so will the stuff in a rattle can. But if You are going to drive it expecially in the rain or Snow it will NOT hold up.
I spent a considerable amount of Money along with a lot of My time coating the Frame of My then new 2002 Silverado , I followed the directions to the T , used the Marine clean , and Metalready . I even cleaned with Metalready and wire brushed everything again 2 years later and recoated with POR15.
I live in the Rustbelt and this Truck is My dayly driver . Rust is everywhere POR does not stick to anything but Hands and Cement. The coating is very tough , but once it gets a chip Water and Salt get under it and the Rust will undermine it like Powder coat on cheap lawn furniture. You can grab a loose end and literally pull the stuff off in sheets. The only thing that I would ever use this product on is to waterproof a concrete block wall .
The one product that I have had good luck with is Rust Bullet and I topcoat it with Eastwood Chassis Black as it only comes in silver. Do a google search for Rust Bullet it's amazing stuff , adheres to almost anything and can be topcoated with other paints without having to buy expensive "tie coat" like POR15. I wish that I knew about it when My Truck was new.
I had my frame, front frame extension, trans crossmember, fuel tank crossmember, and rad. support acid dipped and powdercoated Flame Red a few years back. Cost was about $900 total.
Looking to do my frame, but the price of POR15 is up there...wondering if Powedercoat is better?
thanks,
Ron
I just finished a frame off restoration on a 1972 LT1.
I used Chassis Saver Antique Satin Black on the frame after blasting. It really came out nice. I also used this same paint on many of the components that are painted black.
I like the satin finish as it isn't too glossy.
I have also used this product on many of my new vehicle components that aren't painted underneath. It seems to really hold up to the Northern Ohio weather.
Sprayed/brushed everything underneath my A body in POR around 2000
Looks perfect still
It sticks real good BUT it cannot be a smooth surface!
beadblast/sandblast etc. If its ground sanded etc it will not stick as well.
Its a lot of work time and not super cheap. Very happy with the result at the time powdercoat was way too much nowadays it seems to have come down.
Frame off prior to that was PCoated. Drop a wrench on a surface it chips and goes bad from there. I can throw a wrench at the POR surface and it just gets dented. Then I swear a lot
I have a couple of trailers I painted with POR-15. One of them I top coated with the POR-15 topcoat. The other I did with Tremclad. The Tremclad actually looks better. I'm not all that impressed with the stuff. If powdercoating is an option for you , I think its by far the better way to go.
If Your Car is gonna be a Garage Queen POR15 will hold up just fine , and so will the stuff in a rattle can. But if You are going to drive it expecially in the rain or Snow it will NOT hold up.
I spent a considerable amount of Money along with a lot of My time coating the Frame of My then new 2002 Silverado , I followed the directions to the T , used the Marine clean , and Metalready . I even cleaned with Metalready and wire brushed everything again 2 years later and recoated with POR15.
I live in the Rustbelt and this Truck is My dayly driver . Rust is everywhere POR does not stick to anything but Hands and Cement. The coating is very tough , but once it gets a chip Water and Salt get under it and the Rust will undermine it like Powder coat on cheap lawn furniture. You can grab a loose end and literally pull the stuff off in sheets. The only thing that I would ever use this product on is to waterproof a concrete block wall .
The one product that I have had good luck with is Rust Bullet and I topcoat it with Eastwood Chassis Black as it only comes in silver. Do a google search for Rust Bullet it's amazing stuff , adheres to almost anything and can be topcoated with other paints without having to buy expensive "tie coat" like POR15. I wish that I knew about it when My Truck was new.
+1 on the RustBullet. It will stick to clean metal or rusted metal and you can topcoat it with anything. No prep other than making sure the metal is free of grease and dirt. I have had a few power steering gushers on my car and the fluid took off the topcoat but the RustBullet is stil intact. I think there may still be some drops of it stuck to my driveway after I coated my frame 4 years ago.
Don't have any experience with powder coating, so I can't say if it's better or worse, but I have used POR15, and I have to say, it's pretty pricey, but it's worth it. If you use it, try not to get any on your hands, that stuff takes days of scrubbing to get off! If it sticks to metal the same way it stuck to my hands, it'll never come off.
Scott
If you are painting it overhead wear a safety shield unless you like the Dalmation look.
Mike80,
But are you happy with the finished product on yours??
R
I didn't want satin black, I wanted it to stand out. I think it came out looking great, just the way I wanted it, and I'm very happy with the decision that I made! Every time someone takes a look underneath, their reaction is always fun to see.
Wow Mike , that frame looks GREAT ! have to say it looks even better than Mine and Mine is NICE ! Not a big fan of red but like You said it stands out. I also did the same thing with the front spindles , ground them smooth and painted them silver.
I'm wondering if You can powder coat over Rust Bullet that way One would get benefits of both . Rust Bullet will easily stand up to the temperatures needed to cure Powdercoat . Stan.
Wow Mike , that frame looks GREAT ! have to say it looks even better than Mine and Mine is NICE ! Not a big fan of red but like You said it stands out. I also did the same thing with the front spindles , ground them smooth and painted them silver.
I'm wondering if You can powder coat over Rust Bullet that way One would get benefits of both . Rust Bullet will easily stand up to the temperatures needed to cure Powdercoat . Stan.
Thanks for the compliment! The silver on my front spindles is "Rust Bullet", and "yes" that stuff is very tough. But no, I wouldn't powdercoat over any paint. For powdercoating, you are applying a charge of voltage to the metal part which the powder is attracted to and sticks to the part. If you try using a part with paint already on it, the paint will act as an insulator and the powder will not stick properly.
If you try using a part with paint already on it, the paint will act as an insulator and the powder will not stick properly. [/QUOTE]
Exactly
Sometime with powder coat, if there ends up with a thin spot, ( in a hard to reach location) rust can work it's way through.
The inside of the frame rai;s would be more difficult to be sure you are getting any coverage let alone thick enough.
With the POR 15 you can get a better coating inside the rails.
Sometime with powder coat, if there ends up with a thin spot, ( in a hard to reach location) rust can work it's way through.
The inside of the frame rai;s would be more difficult to be sure you are getting any coverage let alone thick enough.
With the POR 15 you can get a better coating inside the rails.
Yeah, the frame rails are hard to get to the inside, but I'm not sure I agree that you can coat the inside of the frame rails better with POR 15. Eastwood sells a kit with a tube for coating the inside of frames. http://www.eastwood.com/internal-fra...ay-nozzle.html
When doing my frame, I had it acid dipped to remove all rust inside and out, had it powdercoated, and then I also coated the inside of the frame with plenty of "Fluid Film" for extra rust prevention. http://www.fluid-film.com/applications/automotive/