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I have put in an aluminum radiator I spoke to DeWitt and they suggested the duel SPAL Fan set up. My mechanic has agreed. Again I think that once I installed the parallel condenser for the AC it is now doing its job sending heat to the radiator.
Hope that takes care of the problem.
Thanks
Joe
Let us know how the DeWitt w/dual fans works, that may be the way I have to go too... Thanks
Flex-o-lite is now summit dual fans for @$300 they work great and look almost stock but a Mr Amp alternator would be a good partner with any electric fan set up
Any luck sorting this out? I did not see anywhere where you told us how hot your car was running. I have a 79 that has a modified engine with 335 hp at the wheels and A/C. I also live where it gets over 100 in the summer. With a stock radiator and a stock fan it will run up to about 200 if sitting in traffic in 100 degree weather with the A/C on, but will usually stay between 160 and 180 while driving. A few years back I had broken the spoiler off while out of town. On the way back I had to keep my speed down and no A/C, but was still running at around 220-230 degrees. new spoiler and temps went back to normal. Do you have the spoiler on your car?
I had a different experience with my wife's 3/4 ton big block suburban. In the summer if it sat some where idling for an extended period of time with both the front and rear A/C running it would over heat. Once I ran in to Walmart and she and the kids were in the truck, when I came out coolant was spilling out and the temp gage was over 240. Driving it always runs 180. So I changed to a large 2800 cfm duel fan with a shroud set up. Now it can idle in any heat all day long and will stay at around 180 degrees, but it would run 220-230 at 70 mph. So I ditched the electric fans and went to the factory fan, but used a heavy duty fan clutch and now it never goes over 180.
So I guess that the moral of the long story is that the electric fans may not help. Make sure its not a different problem first.
I have changed the radiator to an aluminum one new clutch fan. Not sure what else to do from what I have been told the duel fan would be the next step. THe day I was running the car it was boiling over into the overfill. Probable 240 degrees.
I have changed the radiator to an aluminum one new clutch fan. Not sure what else to do from what I have been told the duel fan would be the next step. THe day I was running the car it was boiling over into the overfill. Probable 240 degrees.
Like I said before, find the real reason why it's running hot and stop trying to band-aide the problem.
Make sure your temp gauge is accurate before spending money on radiators and fans. I made this mistake recently. My gauge was WAY off even with a new sending unit.
An aftermarket gauge is $20 and you can connect it to the passenger side head while leaving your stock gauge connected to the drivers side head. This way you can benchmark it.
Also make sure you have all the air out. Drill a 1/4 hole in the t-stat flange, it will help.
If you have a good properly working fan and fan clutch, also have the spoiler and do not have a air flow restriction it has to be something with the engine. You stated the problem started after the engine was "redone". What exactly was done? I can think of lots of things that can cause a cooling problem from incorrect timing and jetting to problems with the engine assembly.
Did you say the fan clutch was new? I had a Blazer in the shop with the same issue recently, would get hot only when the A/C was on, and it turned out a new fan clutch fixed the problem. there was no signs it was bad, it seemed like it was tight when hot, but it must have been slipping to much.
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