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Question: Is 4 1/2 turns (little over 3/8") enough thread for the lug nuts? I marked the lug nut and installed with the wheel on and got 4 1/2 turns. Then I took the wheel off and installed the lug nut 4 1/2 turns and marked and measured it. Didn't want to swap the wheel studs if I don't need to. Thanks
My opinion is that this is very dangerous, firstly because you are using a spacer which is just not recommended (or legal in many places) and secondly you may have insufficient thread engagement, and thirdly because the spacer is not providing a hub-centric support / alignment for the wheel.
You should look into wheel (hub) adapters, not spacers. Even with longer studs it is still unsafe IMHO.
Ok, I have decided to swap my rear wheel studs. I removed the emergency brake adjuster and cut off the first stud at the 6 oclock position. However it is frozen solid and wont come out. I tried a BFH, a BFH and punch, and driving a chisel under the head all while soaked in penetrating oil. Any ideas on how to get it out?
Hate to say but you may have to get it out of the car and put it in a press/vise.
Maybe if you were to remove the dust shield maybe you could put a vise on a floor jack and bring it up to level, put a socket over the head to give it room and get it moving out.
Question: Is 4 1/2 turns (little over 3/8") enough thread for the lug nuts? I marked the lug nut and installed with the wheel on and got 4 1/2 turns. Then I took the wheel off and installed the lug nut 4 1/2 turns and marked and measured it.
Something isn't right. Are you using 7/16-20 studs? 4 1/2 turns on a 7/16-20 stud is less than 1/4 inch thread engagement.
The reason for removal is that I'm going to use a 1/2" spacer. Upon replacement, I plan on drilling a hole in the plate. That should allow enough room to install the longer stud.
My opinion is that this is very dangerous, firstly because you are using a spacer which is just not recommended (or legal in many places) and secondly you may have insufficient thread engagement, and thirdly because the spacer is not providing a hub-centric support / alignment for the wheel.
You should look into wheel (hub) adapters, not spacers. Even with longer studs it is still unsafe IMHO.
The reason for removal is that I'm going to use a 1/2" spacer. Upon replacement, I plan on drilling a hole in the plate. That should allow enough room to install the longer stud.
You might want to do a search and talk to others who've tried this.
Have you located longer studs that actually fit the hub?
Most require a larger diameter shank which will force you to drill out the hubs oversize.
Wheel/hub adapters would save you alot of time, frustration and driving risk.
....and you might try drilling out that stud then collapsing it with a hammer & chisel.
Last edited by Hammerhead Fred; Jul 27, 2013 at 12:22 PM.
You might want to do a search and talk to others who've tried this.
Have you located longer studs that actually fit the hub?
Most require a larger diameter shank which will force you to drill out the hubs oversize.
Wheel/hub adapters would save you alot of time, frustration and driving risk.
....and you might try drilling out that stud then collapsing it with a hammer & chisel.
Hammerhead you hit it on the head. I heated the one stud that I cut off and knocked it out. Re-installed an OEM stud and Im going to buy a couple of hub centric adaptors. I had no idea what I was getting into. Thanks for everyones help. I'm positive I will need it again.
American Racing carries replacement lug nuts with extended shanks for use on custom wheels and wheels with spacers. I use them with Torque Thrust D wheels and did not need to use longer studs.