Fuel line in engine compartment
Pro
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 582
Likes: 9
It's a GF652.
The adapters:
The Napa part# is WH 1446. They're made by a company called Weatherhead.
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...000999999&An=0
The adapters:
The Napa part# is WH 1446. They're made by a company called Weatherhead.
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...000999999&An=0
Drifting
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 1,647
Likes: 5
From: Roseville CA
Thanks for the compliments.
5th Gear
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Going thru some similar issues and am considering going with a Holley or Edelbrock pump. Stock one has always performed fine however I really like the looks of the after market pumps. My problem is I cannot find any models with the return line outlet. Does anyone know of any? I noticed Redman76 said he had to go with a vented gas cap, is that the only issue? if not what other problems can I expect if I eliminate the return line?
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,970
Likes: 45
From: Cameron Park CA
If you have a fuel pump without a return line, there is a GM filter with the return line
This is a stock '69 filter positioned lower than stock to accommodate the fuel line for a Holley double pumper. Hand bent stainless tubing. Easy with a cheap parts store tubing bender.
Pete
This is a stock '69 filter positioned lower than stock to accommodate the fuel line for a Holley double pumper. Hand bent stainless tubing. Easy with a cheap parts store tubing bender.
Pete
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 15,892
Likes: 42
Going thru some similar issues and am considering going with a Holley or Edelbrock pump. Stock one has always performed fine however I really like the looks of the after market pumps. My problem is I cannot find any models with the return line outlet. Does anyone know of any? I noticed Redman76 said he had to go with a vented gas cap, is that the only issue? if not what other problems can I expect if I eliminate the return line?
- shiny bling pump that can only be seen with the hood open
- reliable operation with no worries about vapour lock
Installing a vented cap will not cure or prevent vapour lock.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 81,241
Likes: 3,063
From: altered state
St. Jude Donor '05
Heard of many of those glass filters breaking mine never did (this was almost 20 yrs ago). What did happen was it sprouted leaks very easily
Those things are fire hazards period get rid of it.
Those things are fire hazards period get rid of it.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 448
Likes: 3
From: Olathe KS
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Drifting
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 1,944
Likes: 20
From: The only Corvettes in Highett Victoria
Good!!!
I'm glad it's freaking you out, perhaps this will spur you to replace the pump-to-carb line with a one piece steel one as designed by the engineers at GM all those years ago. By all means consider putting a GM STEEL in-line filter in the line, but for your own peace of mind, and your safety, replace that potential death trap ASAP.
No offense intended, as a PO may have put the rubber line there, but it's now up to you to make it safe.
Regards from Down Under.
aussiejohn
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 14,112
Likes: 28
From: Florida
Going thru some similar issues and am considering going with a Holley or Edelbrock pump. Stock one has always performed fine however I really like the looks of the after market pumps. My problem is I cannot find any models with the return line outlet. Does anyone know of any? I noticed Redman76 said he had to go with a vented gas cap, is that the only issue? if not what other problems can I expect if I eliminate the return line?
The whole idea of the return line both oem and with the regulator in respects to eliminating vapor lock is to keep the fuel moving and cool.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 1,194
Likes: 109
From: Las Vegas NV
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 1,944
Likes: 20
From: The only Corvettes in Highett Victoria
Is it really fixed?
ATL,
What you did is better than it was, but you still have two rubber lines between the pump and the carb, plus what looks like an in-line fuel pressure gauge at the carb inlet. There are many Forum members who believe that the only rubber in your fuel line should be two short pieces, one at the tank and the S one at the feed side of the pump. Plus the by-pass from the pump to the return line.
And I have read stories here of those cheap FPGs breaking, for whatever reason, and spraying fuel everywhere. I see you have an electric fan, which blows downward, but airflow through the engine compartment will blow fuel back towards the distributor, from where the sparks emanate.
Please seek the advice of someone like Lars as well as other Forum members, I believe that it is in your best interests to once more change your pump-to-carb fuel line.
Regards from Down Under.
aussiejohn
What you did is better than it was, but you still have two rubber lines between the pump and the carb, plus what looks like an in-line fuel pressure gauge at the carb inlet. There are many Forum members who believe that the only rubber in your fuel line should be two short pieces, one at the tank and the S one at the feed side of the pump. Plus the by-pass from the pump to the return line.
And I have read stories here of those cheap FPGs breaking, for whatever reason, and spraying fuel everywhere. I see you have an electric fan, which blows downward, but airflow through the engine compartment will blow fuel back towards the distributor, from where the sparks emanate.
Please seek the advice of someone like Lars as well as other Forum members, I believe that it is in your best interests to once more change your pump-to-carb fuel line.
Regards from Down Under.
aussiejohn
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 14,375
Likes: 6,374
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
Due to the number of engine fires I've seen caused by rubber lines on the pressure side of the system, I never build any engine with any rubber sections under pressure. Stock carbs/systems are easy: Just order the stock GM steel line from any of the 'Vette vendors. This makes it safe and reliable. If you have an aftermarket carb and/or aftermarket fuel pump, you have to fabricate your own steel lines and your own return system. Here are some systems I've built to accommodate aftermarket carbs, just to give you an idea of what you can easily do with basic hand tools in your garage:
420-cube 530-horse small block with return-style regulator mounted mid-manifold to assure no vapor lock during street use. All lines are stainless, and all connections from the pump to the carb are hard-line threaded connections:
407-cube 500-horse small block with a return regulator mounted at the rear of the carb and all hard-line connections:
463 Pontiac using a simple non-regulated bleed-orifice return line and all hard-line plumbing:
For instructions on building systems, just e-mail me for my "How to Build a Fuel Line" tech paper.
Lars
V8FastCars@msn.com
420-cube 530-horse small block with return-style regulator mounted mid-manifold to assure no vapor lock during street use. All lines are stainless, and all connections from the pump to the carb are hard-line threaded connections:
407-cube 500-horse small block with a return regulator mounted at the rear of the carb and all hard-line connections:
463 Pontiac using a simple non-regulated bleed-orifice return line and all hard-line plumbing:
For instructions on building systems, just e-mail me for my "How to Build a Fuel Line" tech paper.
Lars
V8FastCars@msn.com
Last edited by lars; Aug 18, 2013 at 09:38 PM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 1,194
Likes: 109
From: Las Vegas NV
First I want to say, thanks for the advice. I really do appreciate it. Forums like this make me feel like I'm not going at this restoration alone. I'm a hobbyist, not a pro.
I'm not 100% happy with the rubber lines. I emailed Lars for the tech paper, it sounds like it would be better for me to place the fuel filter between the pump and tank somewhere. That would make it easier to reduce the points of failure between the pump and the carb.
The gauge is a Jeg's gauge connected to a Holley fuel rail through a 90 degree adapter, here is a picture I just took for you:
I'm all for making it better. I look forward to seeing an email reply from Lars so I can read that tech paper.
I'm not 100% happy with the rubber lines. I emailed Lars for the tech paper, it sounds like it would be better for me to place the fuel filter between the pump and tank somewhere. That would make it easier to reduce the points of failure between the pump and the carb.
The gauge is a Jeg's gauge connected to a Holley fuel rail through a 90 degree adapter, here is a picture I just took for you:
I'm all for making it better. I look forward to seeing an email reply from Lars so I can read that tech paper.
Last edited by AboveTheLogic; Aug 18, 2013 at 09:52 PM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 1,194
Likes: 109
From: Las Vegas NV
I read the paper that lars sent me, I don't think I'm far off. I have a tube cutter and flaring tools. I need to get some line, ends, and an inline filter that I can screw into and I should be able to improve upon this on my own.
What's the consensus on the Jeg's gauge that I posted a picture of. Is it a hazard?
What's the consensus on the Jeg's gauge that I posted a picture of. Is it a hazard?
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 14,375
Likes: 6,374
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
No. You can break the glass, and there is no connection between fuel pressure and the glass/dial area: The pressure is on the other side of a metallic bellows, so the bellows would have to rupture along with the glass - not a likely scenario.
Lars
Lars
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 14,375
Likes: 6,374
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
There is no "kit." It's just a fuel line. Hard fuel lines are carried by every Corvette restoration parts supplier in the "engine fuel" section of their catalogs. You can shop for Paragon Corvette, Long Island Corvette, Eckler's, Mid-America, Zip, Corvette Central, or any of your other favorite suppliers - they all carry them.
Lars
Lars
Last edited by lars; Aug 19, 2013 at 12:50 PM.
Drifting
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 1,353
Likes: 44
From: Calgary Alberta
http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb....Z5Z5Z50000050G
I'd go ahead and replace these while you're at it:
http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb....Z5Z5Z50000050G
http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb....Z5Z5Z50000050G