Question about prepping for primrer
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
From: New Richmond Wisconsin
Question about prepping for primrer
I have spent a LONG time scraping the paint off my frame off resto. I was very careful NOT to gouge the hell out of it in the process. However, the inevitable light gouge here and there is what I ended up with, nothing real deep but enough to where it needs to be addressed. Is this a time for regular bondo? or is there something better? I've seen the shows on TV where they put on a huge glop of some goo that looks to have the consistancy of mayo, it's really thin and they spread it on with a big squeegy looking type thing..... what is that? is that like a final glazing or something? thanks for any help!
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,198
Likes: 4,287
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi M93,
I believe it's a good idea to fill each gouge with a dab of fiberglass resin. You need to carefully work the resin into each gouge so you're certain there's NOT a tiny air bubble left under the resin.
I think the less bondo type filler that's used on fiberglass bodies the better the paint job looks and the longer it lasts.
Regards,
Alan
I believe it's a good idea to fill each gouge with a dab of fiberglass resin. You need to carefully work the resin into each gouge so you're certain there's NOT a tiny air bubble left under the resin.
I think the less bondo type filler that's used on fiberglass bodies the better the paint job looks and the longer it lasts.
Regards,
Alan
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,346
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From: new iberia la
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 8,117
Likes: 104
From: charlotte north carolina
surprisingly, two coats of epoxy primer will fill all of the 'slight' gouges. and if you're spraying a coat of filler on top of the primer, block sand it, then shoot another coat of epoxy, then glaze any (probably won't need it) remaining defects. in any case, you want epoxy as your layer under the color. spi epoxy is great because it has a 7 day recoat window.
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Advanced
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 79
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From: Waynesboro PA
Yes it's SMC glass. You can use a high build primer like the Mar-Hyde Urethane 2K Primer. It's a 2 part primer that is very easy to use and sand. Use the Buff or Vanilla color if your going a lighter color as it is the easiest to sand. If your going dark get the black, it works and sands well, just a little harder on the sand paper.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 26
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From: New Richmond Wisconsin
Thanks for all the help guys, I'm doing this for my son in the Marine Corps, he's getting ready for second deployment in afghanistan and I'd like to have it done by the time he gets back (8 months) I have done boats before but never something like this. I'm not going to do the color coat but would like to have it all ready to go for the shop that is shooting the color. I'm just a bit confused as to the order of things... I have read so much and everyone says something different. After razoring the paint, there is still a coat of what looks like primer on all the body and doors, t-tops and hood, the front clip will be all new and not purchased yet. It's a grey primer, please tell me I DON"T have to take that down too! the paint job that was there was thick, gloppy and runny.... worst I've seen. I can spray, I have the equipment and fancy myself more than capable, I just need a good solid plan with the right products thats going to be the easiest to work with and yield the best results. Just to let you know he wants a deep metallic red for the final color. I was told to be careful what kind of primer you use because the paint guys paint may not work... my head is spinning!!! information overload I tell ya!!
Safety Car
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 3,747
Likes: 713
From: Lafayette Louisiana
no paint expert at all, but IMHO...
no paint expert at all, but I read a lot of posts here on paint and like you it appears there are lots of ways to do this.
IMHO, since you are going to get a shop to do the final paint, one good piece of advice I saw here was to go talk to the paint shop ahead of time before you get much further and see what they want. I do not know how much the paint shop will guarantee their work, but I am betting getting the paint shop advice beforehand is the way to go.
Hope this helps and good luck with your project.
IMHO, since you are going to get a shop to do the final paint, one good piece of advice I saw here was to go talk to the paint shop ahead of time before you get much further and see what they want. I do not know how much the paint shop will guarantee their work, but I am betting getting the paint shop advice beforehand is the way to go.
Hope this helps and good luck with your project.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 26
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From: New Richmond Wisconsin
Indeed!!! I already had that as a plan 20m... I know that some shops will refuse the job unless they do it all, well.... I don't have that kind of money, nor does my son. I'll tell you this, with everything that has been done, bought and paid for.... like new wiring harnesses, new everything, so far we are into it about $14,000.00.... I have done all the work but the powder coating and the rebuilds of the tranny and the rear end.... this will be a complete custom interior from the ground up.... I'm a journeymen carpenter and will be building the new console as well as the dash for the gauge cluster and such.... it's been a ton of fun and a hell of a lot of work but I know I'm preaching to the choir here... you guys are awesome and I truly appreciate the help and advise!!!