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Differential Leaking...what else should I do here

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Old Jul 30, 2013 | 02:14 PM
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Default Differential Leaking...what else should I do here

Need your input...
I had a leaking tank and corroded mufflers, so they came out. While I've got those out of the way, I wanted to take care of anything else that might need some freshening up. I could see the differential was either leaking a lot at some point or still is. I've been deployed for the past year so I haven't really gotten a chance to drive my car to see if it is leaking(bought it right before I left).

While I have the other stuff out the way, should I drop the differential and have the differential rebuilt or just new seals and oil?

I don't really have all the equipment to rebuild it myself, and I'm only decent when it comes to mechanical work. This is the first project I've taken on like this.

Would I be able to take the differential down myself? And does everything have to come off to do it?

I've ordered a corvette restoration book to help with the questions and I have the chevy shop manual for some help.

The dilemma I have is, I'm not 100% sure I want to keep the car. So I don't want to do too much to it before I get to drive it and decide if I like it or not.

Lastly, what else should I do while I've got access to the rear end? Here are some pics to see the current state of it.











ucket.com/user/f31ixjc/media/20130729_191301_zpsbdf69375.jpg.html][/URL]




Last edited by f31ixjc; Jul 30, 2013 at 02:32 PM. Reason: Photo links not working
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Old Jul 30, 2013 | 02:21 PM
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Dont you have to resolve the last question first, are you keeping the car or do you just wash off the differential fill it and leave it at that.
You dont have to rebuild it if it doesnt make any noise and the posi still works. You should be able to remove it if you decide to, disconnect half shafts, remove spring, remove strut rod bracket, disconnect drive shaft, drop cross member.
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Old Jul 30, 2013 | 02:40 PM
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What I've done. Replaced the Half shafts with Van Steel Spicer units. Replaced the Camber Rods, Replaced the calipers, Rebuild the parking brakes, and while I had everything apart paint.

I took the cover off the inspect the pumpkin as well.

Otherwise everything MelWff said. It's easy but time consuming.
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Old Jul 30, 2013 | 02:46 PM
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MelWff,
I've always loved the C3 corvettes. I always wanted to get a bumper vette and I finally was able to do so. I just haven't got the "feeling" you get when you know this is the old car you won't want to let go because I haven't gotten a chance to drive it around yet.

I supposed I can just clean it up and fill it up and put everything back together. I was just looking for some advice as to whether the look in its current state should be a red flag. Something to the likes of "No, you need to replace the cover gasket or the seals by the looks of the oil leaking around it" or "Nah, its fine, that look is normal".
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Old Jul 30, 2013 | 02:57 PM
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ddawson,
When you painted, did you paint the frame section you had access to as well?

How did you clean the parts? Sand blast or wire wheel?
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Old Jul 30, 2013 | 03:07 PM
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A few items I've been using.

1st I only had very slight service rust and yours looks worse then what I stated with.


I degreased it 1st with brake cleaner then used OSPHO to convert the surface rust. Then I used a wire wheel and my Demel to remove dirt and grim.

Then I shot the parts with Eastwood Rust Encapsulator and top coated after 24 hours.

I checked and made sure the Encapsulator had a good bond before I painted.

Most of the parts going back on are new but the rear cover and upper brace where cleaned and sprayed along with the frame and such. The T Arms were already rebuild 12 years ago and still looked good.

With the spring/shock, half shafts, caliper, brake lines, and such out of the way you get get to pretty much everything.
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Old Jul 30, 2013 | 03:15 PM
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Before you do anything, check the oil level and make sure the differential is not overfilled and that the plastic breather is not plugged up. If the breather gets plugged up the pressure builds up inside and the only way it can vent is past the seals. Which leaves an oily film such as your differential has. Have seen more than a few seals that were replaced that showed oil seepage caused by a plugged breather vent.

Last edited by 1Fordman; Jul 30, 2013 at 03:17 PM.
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Old Jul 31, 2013 | 06:37 PM
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1Fordman,
Check...I'll take a look at that. I've seen that mentioned in other differntial threads; however, your the first one to point out that it will result in the oily film as depicted in my photos. Thanks for the advice everyone.
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