Started the alternator swap tonight and realized everything would line right up if I could rotate the alternator 90 degrees. I did some research and it seems its a pretty straight forward process, but I dont want to risk ruining my new alternator. From what I understand, you split the case (pull the front half) and 'pin' the brushes.

Now, where the he(( do I pin the brushes? Is this job really this simple or would I be better off rewiring?

 

This is an easy one. Remove the 4 5/16 head bolts that hold the 2 halves together. The ring between the 2 halves is the stator, it stays with the rear half. Gently pull it apart, When you do the brushes pop out of the holder. Put the springs back in the holder, align the brushes and push them in on top of the springs. Now, the only "special tool" you'll need- a common wood toothpick. There's a hole in the brushholder that runs all the way thru it and outside the case. Put the toothpick in thru there, and reassemble. When you're done, pull the toothpick.

 

Yes it's simple.

Take the bolts out and if you're lucky you'll get it to turn without having to pull it apart too much. The brushes are in the back section, so try not to pull it apart too far.

If you do have to pull it all the way apart..it's no big deal. The brushes will pop out of the holder with some little springs behind them. If you look at the brush holder at the open end where the brushes come out..you'll see a small hole. You push the brushes back in place with the springs under them and insert a small drill bit, wire, etc through the hole in the holder to keep them in place. Make sure that whatever you use is long enough to extend through the little hole in the back of the case. This will make sense when you see it. If you have to remove the 3 little screws to get the holder out and "load" everything back together...just do it. Once you have it loaded...just screw it back in place. The regulator is held by the same screws and sandwiched with the case and brush holder. Again, whatever holder you used to keep brushes loaded must stick through the back of the case. The factories use a little plastic pin.

Anyway, once you get that all screwed back in place, reassemble the alternator however you want it. Make sure it turns easy when it's tightened down. Then last step is to pull the holder you used out the back of the alternator and let the brushes pop out against the armature.

This sounds involved, but it's really easy and it'll make sense when you get in there.

JIM

 

I'd say go ahead and pull it apart. That way you KNOW the brushes are pinned back in and didn't unknowingly pop out.
You can see the brushholder and the "pin" at 10 oclock in the pic.

Some will say unbolt the pulley and split the case that way, holding the shaft firmly against the back half of the case to keep the brushes in place. Put you pretty much need an impact wrench for that.

 

I have done many and have never had to take it all the way apart. Just needs to move away a small amount to turn. You will know if a brush pops out.

 

While you are in there, replace the condenser and check the rear bearing to see that it is not running dry nor has rust powder in the needles. If the bearing is questionable, just buy a new one and press it in. If the brushes are over 1/2 used up, replace them, too. Get those parts from a starter/alternator repair shop or from auto parts store...or even eBay. Cheap parts....easy repair....less problems to deal with in the future.

If you really want to go the 'whole route', remove the nut/fan, bearings, electronic parts; clean the housings well; shoot two coats of VHT hi-temp aluminum paint on the outsides of the housing pieces, then bake them in a toaster oven per the rattle can instructions.

Then, reassemble and install. The alternator will FOREVER look like newly cast aluminum and never oxidize again. I did mine 5 years ago (and over 10k miles) and it still looks as good as it did then. NO ONE can tell that it has been painted. If a judge tried to chip something off, he/she couldn't do it, as the paint is baked on the aluminum.

 

Guys, a lot of great info here. Thanks for the picture, that made all the difference in the world. Ill be attemping this tonight and Ill let you all know how it goes.

 

Paper clip works better than a tooth pick. Good luck!

Les

 

It's a new alternator so you shouldn't have to pull it apart. Take the bolts out. Put it on it's back. Hold down the pulley and lift the front cover ensuring the stator stays with the back cover. Rotate the front cover and put it back together.

In case you didn't know, look at the picture KapsSA posted. The brush holder is the plastic squarish piece in about the 10 o-clock position. See the square holes facing to the middle? The brushes go in there. See the round hole at the top of that part towards the inside of it? The pin goes through there. Make sure it goes out the back so you can pull it out after assembling the alternator.

 

In the 2.5 years Ive owned this dam Corvette, that was the EASIEST job Ive done yet. The 4 bolts came out, I rotated the case 15 degrees and it stopped....I picked up the front about 1/4 of an inch and it rotated the rest of the way. I sat in disbelief that it had gone this easily. Mind you, this was all performed with ONE ARM as Im still in a sling from shoulder surgery. Too Cool!!

 

But if you forget to take it (or any other metallic object) out of there when you're done, it gets pretty exciting for a couple of minutes. BTDT.. That's why I always suggest a toothpick.

And Scott-- add that to the list of "I know how to do that".

 

ScottD....

Rotator cuff surgery, I'm guessing. That's an "aging guy" disease for fellas who work in concrete-floored garages with oil or loose cardboard laying around. 'Been there.....done that.'

Folks who join AARP (over 50) should immediately be issued shoulder pads!!

If you are younger, bad luck; or you had another type of accident. Work hard during rehabilitation. The phrase "No pain; no gain." really does apply after rotator cuff surgery.

 

Worse....labrum tear. 5 screws to hold it back in place. No single event I can remember that actually tore it, but the last 6 years or so in the Army has just wrecked it.

 

Again, if there is rehabilitation therapy, you MUST do the work and take the pain. Otherwise, that shoulder will never get back to where it was. If the surgery was done well...and you get serious about the therapy, that shoulder can be the 'best' one you have.