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We all know the problem with new temp sending units inaccurate readings. Mine was WAY off so at the suggestion of other forum members, I bought part number WT203Z temp sending unit today and it was some better but still 20 degrees off (temp gauge reading to high). So another trip to the store for an IR gun, came home, drove the car for some 15 minutes after a good warm up and got the following readings: Top of Rad Cap 138, Top of radiator in the middle 138, Thermo Housing 200.3, Water Pump 200, Left Head 184.4 in front and back (by firewall) 210, Right Head 174.3 and 190. I'm not sure if these temps are good or not but I know it's not over heating and I can shut it off and it starts right back up. Now it's time to enjoy that car.
We all know the problem with new temp sending units inaccurate readings. Mine was WAY off so at the suggestion of other forum members, I bought part number WT203Z temp sending unit today and it was some better but still 20 degrees off (temp gauge reading to high). So another trip to the store for an IR gun, came home, drove the car for some 15 minutes after a good warm up and got the following readings: Top of Rad Cap 138, Top of radiator in the middle 138, Thermo Housing 200.3, Water Pump 200, Left Head 184.4 in front and back (by firewall) 210, Right Head 174.3 and 190. I'm not sure if these temps are good or not but I know it's not over heating and I can shut it off and it starts right back up. Now it's time to enjoy that car.
Back around 2002, I wanted to build trust in my electric temp gauge as I had installed aftermarket heads with a matching sender. I had heard stories about incorrect readings leading to mech failures. So, I bought a mechanical SUN temp gauge and mounted it under the hood on the firewall where my former TH350 lockup switch mounted (I converted to a 700R4). I ran the sensor/probe along the Driver's side under the fender with the headlight vacuum lines and then along the EFE hoses to the PCV and then to the thermostat housing (I had plugged the heat sensor holes years before). That way, I could monitor the heat while the engine ran in the driveway and I could easily duck my head through the driver's window to verify on the dashboard. After a few months of driving and observing consistent readings between the mech and electronic gauges, I chose to leave the gauge where it was mounted as it was sort of trick (ok, I am 'Bubba') to have that chrome gauge in a handy place for reference while I have the hood up and engine running.
I just removed the mechanical gauge for my top-end refresh and may re-install it to keep an eye on things as I also had the heads rebuilt.
The only purpose for the C3 temp gauge is to "keep an eye on things" so you can recognize a significant change in temperature. It was never meant to be 'accurate'.....just 'repeatable'.