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80 brake bleeding procedure

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Old Aug 17, 2013 | 02:18 PM
  #1  
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St. Jude Donor '07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
Default 80 brake bleeding procedure

Changing my master cylinder. I know there is a specific procedure for which wheel to bleed, in and out bleeders (rear) . Cant find it anywhere. Anyone else know >?
I THINK its:
LR inner
LR outer
RR inner
RR outer
LF
RF

Anyone ?
Cant find it on Wilcox or VPB sites ...nor a search here.
thank you in advance.
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Old Aug 17, 2013 | 04:13 PM
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You will hear folks say "do the farthest wheel, first", but I have always worked from closest wheel to farthest wheel with no problems encountered. And, I just did this last Thursday after a M/C rebuild.

The strategy is to be certain that you get all the air out of the system by:

Bench-bleeding the master cylinder-lots of air in the piston pockets; if you don't get that unit free of air to begin with...forget it.

LF, get air out between M/C and LF;

RF, get the rest of the air out of the front brakes system.

LR/inner, M/C to LR;

LR/outer, rest of left rear set;

RR/inner, ditto RR;

RR/outer, complete the system.

This process "chases" any trapped air from the system [closest to farthest], rather than assuming that all the air in the system gets removed by doing the RR/outer bleeder to start. {not a good assumption, at all}
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Old Aug 17, 2013 | 04:24 PM
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St. Jude Donor '15-'16
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Worked for me last time I did it.
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Old Aug 17, 2013 | 04:57 PM
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
You will hear folks say "do the farthest wheel, first", but I have always worked from closest wheel to farthest wheel with no problems encountered. And, I just did this last Thursday after a M/C rebuild.

The strategy is to be certain that you get all the air out of the system by:

Bench-bleeding the master cylinder-lots of air in the piston pockets; if you don't get that unit free of air to begin with...forget it.

LF, get air out between M/C and LF;

RF, get the rest of the air out of the front brakes system.

LR/inner, M/C to LR;

LR/outer, rest of left rear set;

RR/inner, ditto RR;

RR/outer, complete the system.

This process "chases" any trapped air from the system [closest to farthest], rather than assuming that all the air in the system gets removed by doing the RR/outer bleeder to start. {not a good assumption, at all}
I was amazed at how much air was still in the piston , especially on the rear compartment. Took 30 minutes , I also used a very small diameter tube (WD-40 spray nozzle tube) to help the air come out. There were 100+ bubbles ! I am 100% sure the bench bleeding was done well.
Have gravity flowed each port, now waiting on my buddy to get home to do the real bleeding.
Thanks for your replies !
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Old Aug 17, 2013 | 05:41 PM
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You can [slow] gravity flow the calipers for as long as you want....but you will likely not get the air out of the system. The bleeder valves on the C3 calipers are NOT at the high-point in the fluid chamber. So, there is almost always an air pocket in each caliper, if "special" effort isn't made.

The Chevy Chassis Service Manual states that you should use a rubber mallet and "bash" (my term, not their's) the caliper while bleeding it. I usually bleed the brakes, then drive it a few days to see if there is any spongy feel to it. If there is, I'll re-bleed them a few days later. Driving the car tends to jostle any trapped air and get it to where the bleeder can let it out at the next attempt.
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Old Aug 17, 2013 | 08:21 PM
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If you have brakes now(no air in lines)and your'e just changing the master you don't have to bleed the brakes.Bleed the master before installing,remove your old master and install new one,then just tickle the brake pedal with your foot lightly and any air between the 2 brake lines will come up thru the master.I've done this many times and it always works.
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Old Aug 17, 2013 | 08:22 PM
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Hey, Mike. Hope you are well. The reason for bench bleeding the MC is due to the fact that it is mounted at an upward angle on the car and can trap air at the front end. Gravity bleeding the main system will work, or at least, it does for me. I agree with 7T1 to re-bleed a few days later after a few heat cycles. mike...
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Old Aug 20, 2013 | 10:06 AM
  #8  
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Originally Posted by mds3013
Hey, Mike. Hope you are well. The reason for bench bleeding the MC is due to the fact that it is mounted at an upward angle on the car and can trap air at the front end. Gravity bleeding the main system will work, or at least, it does for me. I agree with 7T1 to re-bleed a few days later after a few heat cycles. mike...
Thanks, I am well ! Good to hear from you again.

When my wife came home she helped me by being the brake pedal buddy. Went off like a charm.

While I waited, made a vacuum canister to pull the fluid from the caliper end thru the system. That worked great too.
If anyone is interested in seeing my contraption ,drop me a pm . It was a 20 oz glass jar, metal lid that I brazed 2 fittings on. 1 was for my vacuum pump, the other a brake fluid hose that attached to the caliper. Only problem was: using 3-5 inch vacuum, you pull air in from the bleeder threads and can be misleading that the air seen is air in the lines.
Good way to pass a couple of hours making the thing. lol
The 80 brakes are like new now.
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