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Before I commit to buying heads and paying for install I was going over all other options. Ive knocked out supercharging and nitrous and am down to a basic engine swap. The only one that would save me money over the top end on current engine is this one.
Well it’s a .060” over block which might be OK if it was sonic tested, otherwise its kind of sketchy. Plus and you are at the mercy of who put it together and how it was done. The ‘462 heads do not have holes to mount your accessories so they are more than likely useless to you. You would be better off going to pick-n-pull junk yard and getting a 4 bolt vortec truck or van engine for about $150. You would have vortec heads you can have machined for more lift, already has roller cam capability, and a 4 bolt block.
there are a lot of questions id ask about that engine, forged or cast steel crank . domed pistons ? how big a dome, what compression? what bearings and rings , stock fasteners or upgrade like arp. i have to agree, unless you know for sure whats in it get a vortec from a junkyard bore it , new pistons machine the heads for more lift add a better cam and have at it
Bought my engine block on Craigslist for 300 bucks.... supposedly had two summers worth of driving and less than 10,000 miles on it.... which it did! But,..... it also had a broken piston ring at one time which the owner supposedly had taken care of... well He replaced the rings and rehoned the walls but the bearings and crank were still all scored up bad. And the arp bolts he bragged about were just factory bolts.... I still made out because the pistons were fairly new flat tops and the block was a good "arguably" 509,010,020 high nickel/tin 4 bolt block.... and it had a new melling pump as well as a box of extras like new Carb spacers and chrome alternator brackets and such....
The aluminium oil pan won't work for me and has a stripped oil plug hole anyway... it also did have a almost new comp 268h cam and lifter which I still may use on a futurebuild or sell...(since I went with the 262 voodoo.
I do think I made out on my iron eagle heads for 300.00 on Craigslist.
Last edited by augiedoggy; Aug 21, 2013 at 07:49 PM.
I bought a used 350 from a friends brother. It was rebuilt 30K ago, was .030 over and had a cam.
Or so I was told.
I thought my oil pressure gauge was wrong when it showed me 1PSI at idle. 3 days later I heard the unmistakable CLANG CLANG CLANG
of a spun bearing. When I tore the engine apart I also found out the pistons were standard. When I confronted the guy he said 'oh my bad, must have been the OTHER engine I had in the barn. The next time I buy a used motor it will be from a forum member or a guy who can show me receipts. Good luck.
Lol alright. Ill stick with top end on current engine. Im guessing its gonna save a crap ton on cost if I pull the engine. Is it hard?
Ya gotta do it either way.... I'm pulling my first engine myself and so far its gone well except I may just end up pulling the tyranny with it... there's hardly any room to get the top 4 of the 6 bolts that mount the engine to transmission... ( do they make an extra long wrench to get to these?)
It will certainly give you a feeling of accomplishment that you won't get having someone else build your car.
Last edited by augiedoggy; Aug 22, 2013 at 08:35 AM.
How much is it to replace a spun bearing? A guy is selling a zz4 with spun bearing for $150
Well the bearing will cost about eight dollars. Who knows if the crank will need to be machined Or replaced Or whatever internal damage happened. Oil passages can get clogged with metal shavings.... Generally a motor with a spun bearing Requires a thorough tear down And a once over.
When my vette engine died a few years ago, I found a 305 out of a 84 camaro for only $100 on craigslist. the guy swapped it out for a 350, so he said the engine was good, and showed me the odometer of the camaro which was reading 87,000 miles on it. so I threw it in the vette and put about 20,000 miles on it till I pulled it to put in the big block last year. I put the 305 back on craigslist and sold it to someone else for $100. All worked out well.
If someone has a motor for sale and they say it has a bunch of stuff done to it, and its rebuilt, they betta have the paperwork to back it up.
I have made out on CL motors and I have been burned up.
1000 is a steep price for an unknown engine. If he is serious pull the heads off and the pan. Look at the rods check piston parts#s and look at a rod and main bearing at random
If it checks out then you are ahead of game if it doesn't he is a BS artist and you are ahead.
If the jack hole refuses to allow for an inspection then run away.
if he is legit then he will let you look.
before the tear down run an oil primer on it and look at the static cold oil pressure and that will tell you right away if its worth further investigation
Im buying just a short block for $200. Getting it cleaned and resurfaced. Getting bare heads for $200 iron eagle 64cc and assembling them. Putting it all together. Taking it to a shop for a rejett of carb and recurve and dyno
Im buying just a short block for $200. Getting it cleaned and resurfaced. Getting bare heads for $200 iron eagle 64cc and assembling them. Putting it all together. Taking it to a shop for a rejett of carb and recurve and dyno
No I have not. But at some point everyone has said no to that question. Im excited to try It and have neighbors who are mechanics if I get stuck and I have you guys ill make a thread about the start to finish and all my questions. Im actually gonna use the engine in my vette. Pull it and start from there I will take my time with everything and idc if it takes months.
i would say if the engine if its complete its worth 150.00 . the heads are likely worth it . check if the crank journals or main saddles or rod journal are blue if so none of it can be used. it is a crap shoot , id offer 50 and come up a little the chance is it is scrap iron
It was gonna be close to a grand for a shop to tear eengine down clean it and resurface everything and reassemble. So im buying a 4bolt main with better crank and pistons.