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how to complete bare heads

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Old 08-22-2013, 12:03 AM
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Planbmatt1
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Default how to complete bare heads

I can get dart iron eagle heads 215cc runners and 62cc combustion chamber for $200 for the pair. They are bare though so can someone educate me on what parts are needed to complete them and is it easy to do? Also around how much would it cost to finish them
Old 08-22-2013, 01:27 AM
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BOOT77
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New or used heads? Either way prob need a valve job. Then you'll need the correct size valves, springs to match your cam, retianers & locks, rocker arm studs, valve seals, shims and guideplates. You can go china cheap or quality parts $$$ Last set of used heads I bought I got $50 off for letting him keep all but the valves, it was the junk stuff most heads come with. Still by the time you add up all the stuff you need, you could prob buy a decent set of heads ready to bolt on, if you don't want the trouble.

Last edited by BOOT77; 08-22-2013 at 01:27 AM. Reason: dirrrrrrrr
Old 08-22-2013, 01:29 AM
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They would be new.

Guess it isnt worth the trouble. Thanks
Old 08-22-2013, 03:29 AM
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I prefer to set my heads up with stuff I pick out, those heads I got with the valves I already bought $200 of valves.

Still $200 for new bare heads seems like a good deal. Are they platinums? You could prob put em together with better stuff for the same or a bit less than assembled.
Old 08-22-2013, 10:48 AM
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maverickmk
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I prefer to buy bare heads. That way I can set them up for the cam I'll be using and I also know exactly what kind of parts I have in them. It's easy to install the valves, springs etc.
Old 08-23-2013, 12:53 PM
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7t9l82
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and you can have someone assemble them and check guide clearance seat concentricity check the castings for a thousand other things, thats the way to go.
Old 08-23-2013, 01:31 PM
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my 76 ray
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The only way to know what it will cost is to price out all the parts you need to complete them. Once you do that you can make an informed decision on whether you will be happier with buying a set that's already assembled or building exactly what you want.
Old 08-23-2013, 02:51 PM
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TedH
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Originally Posted by Planbmatt1
I can get dart iron eagle heads 215cc runners and 62cc combustion chamber for $200 for the pair. They are bare though so can someone educate me on what parts are needed to complete them and is it easy to do? Also around how much would it cost to finish them
Bare set of fresh new DART 215cc heads for $200 is a STEAL if that includes new guides.

Are you going with roller cam kit? Comp Camp K-Kit that includes the cam, lifters, springs, keepers, locks, seals, cam button, timing set, is about $950. Add guide plates for $50 and I/E valves and, assuming you have only to assemble you would have a BUDGET roller cam swap at about $1,250 with all-new heads and valve train. Toss in engine gasket price and you are still getting a bargain.
Old 08-23-2013, 08:44 PM
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It would be 200cc runners with 64cc combustion chamber bare. I can get them for $200. How much will It cost approximately to complete them?
Old 08-23-2013, 09:11 PM
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Im just going to order rhs bare heads assembly kit

http://m.summitracing.com/parts/rhs-12987-01
Old 08-24-2013, 12:13 AM
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I will be using the lunati voodoo cam 262/268

My two options are this:

1) buy zz4 58cc heads with new machine job done with receipts and valves set properly with single springs and guide plates...etc the whole 9 yards for $400

2) buy dart 200cc runners and 64cc combustion chamber bare heads for $200 and use the rhs bare head assembly kit for $140 and put them together myself.

Which one will produce more power?

better value?
Old 08-24-2013, 12:29 AM
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bmans vette
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Originally Posted by maverickmk
I prefer to buy bare heads. That way I can set them up for the cam I'll be using and I also know exactly what kind of parts I have in them. It's easy to install the valves, springs etc.


Bman
Old 08-24-2013, 12:35 AM
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Scottd
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Are you SURE these are NEW heads? Dart Iron Eagle heads retail for 350-400 ***EACH***. Either you have a friend whos just giving them away, or somebody is trying to sell you oceanfront property in Arizona...

You find me heads in this price range for my 454 and Ill BUY your heads for you!
Old 08-24-2013, 12:36 AM
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so you recommend going about getting the bare heads? Whats your thoughts on rhs bare head assembly kit?
Old 08-24-2013, 12:38 AM
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Yes they were 100% new in box with part number checked out. I contacted him but he sold them within 4 hours on craigslist. The ones in looking at now are used and the 200cc runner one.
Old 08-24-2013, 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Planbmatt1
Yes they were 100% new in box with part number checked out. I contacted him but he sold them within 4 hours on craigslist. The ones in looking at now are used and the 200cc runner one.
If used, have they been rebuilt? Am asking as my 180cc DARTs' vave seats were worn to point of needing inserts. I found the hardened exhaust seats were only good with unleaded for about 30K miles of normal driving.

I spent $600 on the rebuild as all guides were also shot, cleaning, resurface, assembly with my new parts (reused the valves and guide plates only).

If rebuilt, you are getting a deal at $200. Hope that includes guides and valve seats.
Old 08-24-2013, 09:33 AM
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Ah ok so basically if they are rebuilt do the bare heads. If not go with the zz4 heads?

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Old 08-24-2013, 09:37 AM
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The zz4 heads have upgraded ss valves and have been resurfaced. Can I make 350hp with zz4 heads?
Old 08-24-2013, 10:20 AM
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The zzz4 heads have been milled and fresh stainless steel valve job
Old 08-24-2013, 11:55 AM
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Bare heads need to be gone through buy an expert and assembled by the same if you have a fair amount of coin in them. There are so many things that can be out it's not even funny, even from the good USA manufacturers. I did most of the work on my motor except I let my buddy set the heads up correctly, hands up for who's have a spring height micrometer.

You should run the gammet from cc'ing the combustion chamber to making sure the head is straight and not high on on corner and low on the other. Then they should be gasket matched to the intake you are using.

Seems like a no brainer but it's not when you get into stetting the correct closed spring height to to checking each and every valve guide, a tight valve guide at high rpms is about as bad as any other clearance not being set right, BOOM !

Last edited by MotorHead; 08-24-2013 at 11:58 AM.


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