Update: after being so across the board on what I want it was time to make a decision. I talked with a guy and machine shop who helped me build a kit. We decided best route is to buy a new 350 block with all machine work done, bearings installed, etc. To pair with it were going to put in a eagle bottom end kit. It is all one piece main seal with a 4 bolt main too. Then for top end were putting on vortec hd truck heads with 180cc flow and 64cc chambers due to budget. So to break it down

This is my plan:

1)buy bare block 383 engine.................................. Summit racing http://www.summitracing.com/parts/su...make/chevrolet
2)install new eagle 383 bottom end.........................Summit racing http://www.summitracing.com/parts/es...3068/overview/
3)install Vortec 180cc intake runner & 64cc heads.....Craigslist
4)install Summit cam..................................... ........Summit racing http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-1104
4)Take it to ShoMeSpeed who is going to re jet/re curve it and dyno
5)pull l48
6)paint engine bay
7)drop new engine in

The tools I need to buy are:

1)Engine hoist ..................(bought)
2)Engine stand .................(bought)
3)torque wrench ...............(bought)
5)cam install tool ..............(bought)

The Parts I already have are as follows:

Lunati Lifters
Felpro gasket set
timing chain
re curve kit
lifters
rocker arms oem
750cfm carb

The parts I need:

summit cam 1104
summit 383 bare block
scat bottom end kit
arp bolt set
Felpro .015 head gasket
Vortec heads
push rods
break in lube for cam etc
harmonic balancer
torque convertor
stroker oil pan
stroker oil pump and pickup

Ill be updating on every part I get and step I make further to completion. Also pics of the new vette will be up sometime too.

I am picking up the heads Tuesday and buying the block from summit hopefully the 12th

 

Nope, after you adjust the valve lash, you still have to put the valve covers back on, then you're done.

Scott

 

and how do you adjust valve lash?

Also when I install the cam and put the timing chain on. Is there a special position the crank and pistons are suppose to be at in the block or can i just put the dot to dot on the timing chain gears no matter where the pistons are positioned and thats it?

 

subbed...

 

The crank gear is indexed i.e. keyway and the camshaft has a dowel that aligns with the timing sprocket. The crank gear and timing sprocket can only go on one CORRECT way. First, set THE #1 PISTON ON IT'S COMPRESSION STROKE AT TOP DEAD CENTER before you install the timing chain/sprocket. Now you can install your cam/timing gear set. So now when you align the two dots (timing gear dot at the bottom position i.e. 6 o'clock and the crank gear dot at high noon), that will also set the proper positioning of the pistons and camshaft for valve lashing. It's recommended that you purchase a degree wheel so you can confirm the timing specs on the cam card.

 

And don't forget to add coolant, oil and install filter! Consider buying an oil priming tool and use it prior to starting the engine for the first time.

 

Watch the many many you tube videos on the subjects...that's were I got most of the info for my build.....just don't go by one video and reading the comments help get a feel if everything was done right.

 

gotcha. I was told that you should not turn the crank though after pulling the distributor. So how should I go about getting piston #1 (assuming its the first piston on the right when standing at the front of car ) at the top of its compression stroke?

 

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g1056

Just get this?

 

It Is currently a 3speed auto. I can get a 3 speed th350 with linkage and shifter for $100. What else is needed to do swap? I might do it if not much more is Involved

 

Not sure what your budget is or if you will be building engines in the future but if you have the means to purchase tools that you have listed vice renting/borrow, then fill your boots. The advantage of tool ownership is that they are always available when YOU want them, 24/7.

 

The only way you can get the dots to line up properly is if the rotating assembly is properly positioned, so it's not something you need to worry about. What you need is to study the basics. Get a book on rebuilding a chevy small block and study it. Notice I didn't say read it, I said study it. Good luck,

Scott

 

Yeah, I just lined the two dots (crank gear and cam gear) perfectly; I did not use a degree wheel either. Once assembled, and after mistakenly setting it at 6 then 8... I set initial timing to 12 degrees BTDC and positioned my HEI rotor very close to #1 plug wire (with cap installed). Dropped the dizzy in and was 180 degree off... argh! Bumped the crank around using my convenient hand-held starter trigger. Brought crank up to 12 BTDC, dropped dizzy back in and it fired right up. Added a little more initial by turning the dizzy counterclockwise and the engine was happy.

 

I noticed you plan to bore it .060. Small blocks are usually limited to .030 overbore.

 

Reason is i can get forged mahle pistons that require a .060 bore. I read that .060 bore was max. Maybe your right though because all the engine rotating assembly kits dont go over .030 bore.

 

I am asking the same question as BKBroiler.

 

I just purchased the heads from a guy off craigslist. I go to pick them up at the machine shop tuesday as they were getting cleaned, new seals, valve job, and guides. I only am paying $150. Great start for the budget build. I also just put in my order for the summit cam with 214 lift. Sold my lunati cam and intake. I need a vortec style intake if anyone has one ill buy it off you. Spread bore

 

So, you're going with some cast iron Vortec heads? Pretty nice score, freshened up Vortecs for 150 bucks.

Scott

 

Yep on a 383 stroker eagle kit. Fits the flow numbers I need and makes my compression 9.9:1

 

I am also ordering the sum-1104 cam and using my lunati lifters