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Old Aug 26, 2013 | 09:43 AM
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Default T-top fit

When I started my 73 project, the driver's side T-top was crooked. It almost touched in one corner and had 1/2" gap on the other. I could not adjust it out with the already screwed up brackets.
I bought some like new tops that I hope will work.
I took measurements at the top corner of the windshield post, from the post back to the rear bow.
The right side is 22 1/4" and the left side is 22 3/4".
Is this something I need to adjust, if so how?
What other dimensions should I check?

Sam
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Old Aug 26, 2013 | 10:07 AM
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At first sight I would say your windshield frame is bent inward at the right side. Do you have rust at the base of the right side window frame or the left for that matter? How do the door windows fit to the windshield pillars?
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Old Aug 26, 2013 | 01:30 PM
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I don't see any rust issues. The right side top fits fine. As I remember the window fit was ok, but I took all that apart two years ago.
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Old Aug 26, 2013 | 05:30 PM
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Hi Sam,
This is really Catch 22.... I'd say the measurement needs to be very close on each side; but you won't be able to tell which side is correct, (or if either is correct), until you trial fit the roof panels; and you can't trial fit the roof panels until the outer windshield header corner trim pieces, the rear outer adjustment wedges, and the 4 guides along the center bar are in place.
I think you have to go through this effort because just putting the loose panels in place and trying to figure out what's wrong won't really tell you anything concrete at this point.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan
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Old Aug 26, 2013 | 06:07 PM
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i'm working on an '80, the ttops fit terribly across front. found some NOS ands they fit fine. could be the tops themselves.
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Old Aug 26, 2013 | 08:08 PM
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sjmcdowell, You can gently tap the bare windshield frame with a hammer and a piece of wood and make them the same, if you can figure which side is correct. Maybe the AIM might have a dimension. Lou.
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Old Aug 27, 2013 | 09:12 AM
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Mine also fit badly. I have the aftermarket glass "moon" t tops and thought that was the issue so I bought another set of factory tops correct for my 74.... they still don't fit right... my "birdcage" seems solid from what I can tell but its been repainted twice.... think I may check things out with a magnet...
I read that fit and finish wasn't the best to begin with so not sure what to expect.
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Old Sep 3, 2013 | 01:57 PM
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Alan 71, I bit the bullet and took your advice. I put the mounting pieces on and this is the result:

Now how do I move the front pillar corner aft?
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Old Sep 3, 2013 | 02:37 PM
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When I go back to the shop after lunch I'll measure my 71 and 75 and see what the numbers are. I'll let you know in a little bit.
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Old Sep 3, 2013 | 03:22 PM
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Great thanks
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Old Sep 3, 2013 | 03:51 PM
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Hi Sam,
I just took some measurements on my 71.
The dimension from the fiberglass face of the halo straight forward to the center/line of the round nylon receiver in the front corner casting is 23 3/16" on the left side and 23 1/8" on the right side.... so only 1/16" difference.
What are your measurements at those 2 points?
In the picture you posted of the roof panel... is the wedge in place? Is the wedge receiver in the top panel in place? Has the wedge been tightened top allow that corner of the top to move back?
Is the pin in the front corner of the top panel loose to allow the top panel to move back?
Regards,
Alan
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Old Sep 3, 2013 | 04:02 PM
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Hi Ad,
The fit and alignment of the roof panels was typically very good originally.
Unless the windshield posts and header has been moved or repaired there's really no reason a very good alignment can't be achieved now.
All 4 alignment points need to be loosened to begin with so the top panel can be gotten into position and then the various bolts tightened.
I work from the inside of the car with the top panel's interior trim panel off. It took several hours for each side.
Regards,
Alan

All 4 points take considerable adjustment.






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Old Sep 3, 2013 | 04:39 PM
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Just measured the 71 and 75 were the same. From the same points you used, they were both 21 15/16ths. Both sides. The 78 is 22 on the nose both sides.
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Old Sep 3, 2013 | 04:59 PM
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Alan, Thanks this helps me head in the right direction.
No the rear triangle is not engaged. It could be but then the front pin will not go in. I'll let you know what I find.
Thanks for the measurements. I now have my next challenge toward completion.
Sam
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Old Sep 3, 2013 | 06:36 PM
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OK hear are the numbers: LH 23 3/8; RH 22 15/16 to center of hole.
I loosened the LH front clamp/pin assembly and was able to move it into position shown. Then I loosened the RH side and could not get it to the right place. So it appears that the RH side is actually short.
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Old Sep 3, 2013 | 06:36 PM
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I'd look around for rust in the base of the windscreen supports. Any signs it has been hit before?
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Old Sep 3, 2013 | 06:41 PM
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Hi Sam,
The wedge stud needs needs to be able to turned in and out to establish the gap at the roof panel to halo.
The front pin needs to be loose in the roof panel so it can move too.
With as much difference in the R-side to L-side measurements I'd think the windshield post is going need to be 'moved' so right and left are very close to equal.
Not a pleasant thought.
Regards,
Alan
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Old Sep 3, 2013 | 06:43 PM
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This is a little extreme but how are your door gaps looking? The car might be tweaked a little or maybe even body mounts?
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Old Sep 3, 2013 | 08:39 PM
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I know that the car has been hit in the past; replaced front clip, poor workmanship abounds, the original VIN has been replaced by a NC DMV number.
As for the door gaps, I have spent the last two months moving, shimming, bondoing and block sanding them into submission.
I measured a slight difference in the angle from horizonal between the halo and the front alignment hole, the right being lower than the left by 2 degrees. I think I can pull the right up a little with an engine hoist and move the left down/back with a block off wood and big hammer. I only need about 1/4" on each.
What do you think?

Last edited by sjmcdowell; Sep 3, 2013 at 08:42 PM.
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Old Sep 4, 2013 | 07:24 AM
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Hi Sam,
Any procedure that uses an engine hoist, blocks of wood, and a big hammer, usually requires prior approval from the GM technical guys, but taking into consideration the indignities your car has already suffered in it's life I think you have a good idea and can proceed on your own.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan
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