Best bottom end rotating assembly
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 6,359
Likes: 428
From: Seattle Area WA
What trans and rear end does this car have. I'm wondering why you want this lunati cam, it doesn't look too bad, mild mannered numbers and 112 LSA. It might be a bit on the small side for a 383. Is this what you have/want"
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/lu...02lk/overview/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/lu...02lk/overview/
Last edited by Scott Marzahl; Aug 27, 2013 at 04:27 PM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 783
Likes: 2
From: Houston Tx
If I may interject here. None of you guys know me or of me....I have built numerous 50+ SBC and BBC engines. Now onto LSX engines. But, no flat top 4 valve relieve 350 will achieve 10:1 compression unless zero deck height, and serious head milling on a closed chamber. .125 domes are necessary to get the compression and the "snap" you are going to want with a performance engine. 185+ psi cranking compression is what you want. Any less and it will be a dog. A eagle or scat rotating assembly with true flat tops and an edelbrock rpm kit will put a huge smile on your face for little coin. Its hard to beat an engineered package. I am on my phone, but will check back in a bit for any replies or questions. Thanks.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 366
Likes: 0
I actually came across it for free. Heard it was very good cam so I was going to just use it.
I have a th350 3 speed auto. I will upgrad stall convertor
Rear end is stock
My whole top end is still undecided. While I buy and put together my 383 bottom end ill prepare a top end. So cam and heads are Still up for grabs.
Im going to read those books and start there for top end.
I have a th350 3 speed auto. I will upgrad stall convertor
Rear end is stock
My whole top end is still undecided. While I buy and put together my 383 bottom end ill prepare a top end. So cam and heads are Still up for grabs.
Im going to read those books and start there for top end.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 366
Likes: 0
http://www.jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/350/...oductId=760264
This on the 383 stroker? This be wicked fast right? With say a 2400 stall convertor.
This on the 383 stroker? This be wicked fast right? With say a 2400 stall convertor.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 6,359
Likes: 428
From: Seattle Area WA
Somebody's pencil is wrong, either yours or mine. These cheap kits the OP is picking use either the Sealed Power 860CP or 859CP pistons, 5.7" rods.
Using a Sealed Power 860CP with TVR +5cc volume, 9.025” deck, .028” head gasket w/ 4.10" gasket bore, 64 cc combustion chambers, 3.75” stroke, 5.7" rod you end up with a SCR of 10.7:1
If you use the Sealed Power 859CP dish +12cc with TVR, everything else the same the SCR is 9.98:1
Using a Sealed Power 860CP with TVR +5cc volume, 9.025” deck, .028” head gasket w/ 4.10" gasket bore, 64 cc combustion chambers, 3.75” stroke, 5.7" rod you end up with a SCR of 10.7:1
If you use the Sealed Power 859CP dish +12cc with TVR, everything else the same the SCR is 9.98:1
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 12,239
Likes: 19
From: Chino CA
http://www.jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/350/...oductId=760264
This on the 383 stroker? This be wicked fast right? With say a 2400 stall convertor.
This on the 383 stroker? This be wicked fast right? With say a 2400 stall convertor.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 6,359
Likes: 428
From: Seattle Area WA
i think you can fit that intake under a 76 hood with a drop base air cleaner. I think its about the same height or lower than the LT1 Z/28 intake I ran on my old 78. Very tight and I had to remove the insulation blanket. However you certainly don't need the higher RPM range that intake offers for a baby 383.
Last edited by Scott Marzahl; Aug 27, 2013 at 05:19 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 6,359
Likes: 428
From: Seattle Area WA
Matt, it will be adequate. My concern would be the port sizes for the demands of a 383 and the port sizes of the heads you choose. You can always carefully match port the intake to fit the large runners of the heads.
Before you do anything get the block cleaned up and inspected, make sure its good and will clean up at .030" over.
As a side note , you are probably in school like my son was when he picked up his ’76 project. Since money was tight we simply warmed over the old L48 with flat tops, a GM ‘151” cam I had laying around and a set of ’69 350 heads with 64cc chambers that I removed from and old engine years ago. Used a cheap set of Summit headers, re-curved the stock HEI, used a swap meet Weiand 8000 series intake and rebuilt the Q-jet. I rebuilt the TH-350 and installed a cheap Hughes GM25 converter. The compression is 10.25:1 and it runs really, really strong. With the 2,500 stall it spools up fast and just lays down the rubber. Now that he is out of school and working, he isn’t even sure he wants a 383 anymore since the car is so fun the way it is. You have lots to sort out before you take the plunge and drop a boat load of coin into this thing.
Before you do anything get the block cleaned up and inspected, make sure its good and will clean up at .030" over.
As a side note , you are probably in school like my son was when he picked up his ’76 project. Since money was tight we simply warmed over the old L48 with flat tops, a GM ‘151” cam I had laying around and a set of ’69 350 heads with 64cc chambers that I removed from and old engine years ago. Used a cheap set of Summit headers, re-curved the stock HEI, used a swap meet Weiand 8000 series intake and rebuilt the Q-jet. I rebuilt the TH-350 and installed a cheap Hughes GM25 converter. The compression is 10.25:1 and it runs really, really strong. With the 2,500 stall it spools up fast and just lays down the rubber. Now that he is out of school and working, he isn’t even sure he wants a 383 anymore since the car is so fun the way it is. You have lots to sort out before you take the plunge and drop a boat load of coin into this thing.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 783
Likes: 2
From: Houston Tx
Somebody's pencil is wrong, either yours or mine. These cheap kits the OP is picking use either the Sealed Power 860CP or 859CP pistons, 5.7" rods.
Using a Sealed Power 860CP with TVR +5cc volume, 9.025” deck, .028” head gasket w/ 4.10" gasket bore, 64 cc combustion chambers, 3.75” stroke, 5.7" rod you end up with a SCR of 10.7:1
If you use the Sealed Power 859CP dish +12cc with TVR, everything else the same the SCR is 9.98:1
Using a Sealed Power 860CP with TVR +5cc volume, 9.025” deck, .028” head gasket w/ 4.10" gasket bore, 64 cc combustion chambers, 3.75” stroke, 5.7" rod you end up with a SCR of 10.7:1
If you use the Sealed Power 859CP dish +12cc with TVR, everything else the same the SCR is 9.98:1
Yes, OP I am suggesting using the edelbrock RPM package on a 383 also. Those little smallish packages run like you wouldn't believe, and are very efficient. I have never had a customer that was unhappy with the results.
Scat 9000 series crank, Scat ProComp I beams, and Probe cheap forged pistons. Used them MANY times, not 1 hitch on seriously nitroused engines.
Pro
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 602
Likes: 32
From: Old Bridge, NJ
Matt, I can see your eager to do this and want a good result. Fact is though your not focused enough to get the result you want. You need to have some good basic understanding of what your goals are and how to reach them. In order to do that it's best to educate yourself as best as you can before you bolt stuff together and end up with something you didn't want.
I would recommend you stop where your at and buy these two books.
Amazon.com: How to Rebuild Your Small-Block Chevy (9781557880291): David Vizard: Books
How to Build Max Perf Chevy Small-Blocks on a Budget (Performance How-To): David Vizard: 9781932494846: Amazon.com: Books
These will teach you what to look for in performance and how to get what you want out of your build. Believe me, take the time to do your homework and you'll save yourself tons of problems down the road. There will always be small details to ask about and this is where the forum comes in handy. Everybody wants to help, but everyone has a different opinion on what "good" performance is. Figure out what it means to you and then work towards that with some knowledge gained from these books. They are easy to read have lots of graphics and pics to show you what to look for and how to go about things.
I would recommend you stop where your at and buy these two books.
Amazon.com: How to Rebuild Your Small-Block Chevy (9781557880291): David Vizard: Books
How to Build Max Perf Chevy Small-Blocks on a Budget (Performance How-To): David Vizard: 9781932494846: Amazon.com: Books
These will teach you what to look for in performance and how to get what you want out of your build. Believe me, take the time to do your homework and you'll save yourself tons of problems down the road. There will always be small details to ask about and this is where the forum comes in handy. Everybody wants to help, but everyone has a different opinion on what "good" performance is. Figure out what it means to you and then work towards that with some knowledge gained from these books. They are easy to read have lots of graphics and pics to show you what to look for and how to go about things.
I know that we are in the age of the internet, but don't underestimate all of the real-world knowledge from experts that is captured in some of these books. For Gen I small blocks, this info is timeless.
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,518
Likes: 37
