82 with a crossfire, car was sitting 7 yrs i just bought it. started right up but was idleing high. took 90% of the old gas out and put fresh in, restarted and idle still high, adjusted the TPS and got it to idle around 700 rpm in park. now the engine has a slight ruff idle and will surge up and down occasionally, and will sometimes stall. any help is appreciated

 

clean the crap off the butterfly of the throttle body and the bore it sits in there is probably a ring of crap in there. clean the idle air control if those things have one . start there its common on f.i engines

 

run a tank of gas thru it .then get back to us.

 

really? please explain. i did not change the fuel filer yet. and i set the tps by ear

 

Any crossfire that sits for 7 years probably needs idle air controls.

 

Why do you say that? Mine sat for 5-6 years, once I got fuel to the injectors, it idles pretty decent. It's not perfect. It will occasionally stall if I back it out of the garage before I let it warm up.

I'm not asking to be a smarta$$. Should a pair of IAC valves be a part of my planned tuneup (plugs, wires, cap, rotor, hoses, and belts)?

 

any car that sits for a long time will have bad gas in the bottom of the tank and in the lines .run new fuel in it for a couple of days, the car should start to run better or you will know that its not running bad from stale old gas .a can of sea foam may help.check for vac leaks .that is the no 1 problem with a crossfire .

 

I would clean them ,but not replace .I would replace only as needed.

 

should i push them in while im cleaning them and drive it to reset them? or just clean them?

thanks for your help

 

what do you mean by "should I push them in"???? (think I know what you mean now.....
you can use gas to clean them out and compressed air to blow them dry.)
you should remove them and clean them, then reinstall and go out for a drive 10 miles or so and above 30 mph so that they will reset themselves.....
ok....now in previous threads, some 82 owners have agreed on the following:
that the CFI in our 82's is not a cold start and drive off motor, meaning that you need to let the motor warm up for about 3 to 4 minutes to give the fast idle a chance to come down on its own.
that is just the nature of the beast. I use my 82 everyday and when it is cold started, I back out of the garage, may have to feather the throttle to move a few feet, and then let the fast idle do its thing. My fast idle goes up to 1300r's or a little higher, after waiting the said time, it comes down and it is good to good, it does not stall when I follow this procedure. If I try to drive off right-a-way, it may stall, so there is the tip of the day for cold starts. Now if your running errands, and your in and out, then restarts are instant and no problem.
BTW, on initial cold start it takes about 4-6 seconds for the engine to start.
the slighty rough idle is no big thing, once you get everything squared away, it will calm down.
what you really need to do is read the "sticky" in the above section for the "82's", that way you will get to know more about the CFI and have a guide line for troubleshooting any problems you may encounter.
Now IMO what you need to do ASAP, is also change the fuel filter, check your spark plugs, etc., maybe do a complete tune-up since it has sat so long. and if you go into the distributor, you should check the ignition module and make sure there is lube between the module and the plate that it attaches to.....these are all outlined in the "sticky", so have fun and let us know.....
one other thing, when reattaching the IAC's, make sure you don't overtighten and check the small gaskets for cracks..............Tom

 

only if the IAC's have failed......you don't need to replace them with each tune-up, but may be a good idea to cleam them so they stay clean.......

 

Your advice is taken. You explained my only idle issue, if I back it out of the garage before it warms up a couple of minutes, it stalls. After that, it idles good for the rest of the day, even if it has sat a couple of hours.

It did ever since it first fired off. The difference in mine and Terry's advice is that I replaced my fuel tank, fuel filter and blew out all lines while they were off. If there was any old gas left in mine, it was a couple of tablespoons.

Even with it running great, I put a can of seafoam in the first fill-up. I never believed in fuel additives, until that stuff come along. I've seen it perform miracles in boats after sitting all winter.

 

I think it may have been Terry or Hugie that pointed that out to me way back when....as when I first got the 82, I would start it up, back out of the garage and drive away. It would stumble, almost stall etc., and there is a small downward dip when I come out of my development and when the Vette went down the dip, the r's would drop almost stall and then come back up. So after the advice from one of the two mentioned, I then began the ritual of doing the 3 to 4 minute warm-up of any cold start, at any location, and never had any of those problems again......

You also make a good point of blowing out the lines, which alot of people don't do, whether or not the fuel tank is removed. If you are changing out or cleaning out the tank, and replacing the fuel filter, that is the perfect time to perform that task.

I have never used seafoam, but use Lucas Injector cleaner, I buy the larger container, save a few $$ doing that, and add 3oz either every fill-up, or every other fill-up. Seems to work for me, I like that product.

 

My car hasnt left the driveway yet. I let it idle for an hour last might and it still raises the idle and stalled 5 times. Plugs cap rotor and wires are new

 

When fuel gets old, it leaves deposits and plugs things up. Put some Chevron Techrion (the whole bottle) in it and drive it. From the sound of your description, you probably have vacuum leaks.To find them, spray carb cleaner around the throttle body, intake manifold gasket area and vacuum lines. If you have a leak, the idle speed will rise and you should be able to repeat the test to verify a leak. Carb spray is flammable, you need to be careful and thoughtful. Have a fire extinguisher handy, and don't spray on the hot exhaust, or arcing plug wires. I recommend you do both these things before you spend too much effort or money chasing ghosts.

 

wouldnt a vacuum leak be constant? not intermittent

 

it can change when it is cold or when it is hot .if it is constant it is easier to find.on a 82 check the intake first then disconnect the head lights .they have lots of places for leaks.

 

i understand the hot/cold idea, but this thing ran for over an hour and it was intermittent. will spray intake and tb bases when i get home today and report back

 

no vac leaks. sprayed carb cleaner everywhere. had 2 cyls not firing, pulled plugs the were fuel fouled and the other 6 were black. fresh set of plugs and it runs alot better but will still surge some. cleaned the iacs also. this may be a dumb ques, but... def looks like someone changed the thermostat, if they put a 160* in it. (as temp gauge is around 160 all the time) will this cause the coolant temp sensor to stay in a warm up mode? my thought is the cts needs to see 190-200 degrees to come out of warm up mode ie rich???

 

your car is running cold .the sensor in the front is thinking that your not warmed up yet.it is sending more fuel than what you need .change stat .