69 brake questions
Thread Starter
Navigator
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 9
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From: Shawnee Ks
69 brake questions
I finally got around to replacing my calipers. I have removed them and tried to remove the front rotors to have them turned. They appear to be riveted to the hub. Apparently the whole hub has to removed from the spindle to drill the rivets? Are the rivets needed when putting them back on? Am I missing something?
I am also trying to replace the parking brake shoes and hardware. It appears the lever the cable hooks in does not come out without pulling the hub. I thought it might come out by loosening the backing plate but the more I look at it I am thinking not. Any input is appreciated.
I am also trying to replace the parking brake shoes and hardware. It appears the lever the cable hooks in does not come out without pulling the hub. I thought it might come out by loosening the backing plate but the more I look at it I am thinking not. Any input is appreciated.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 7,123
Likes: 433
From: Gladstone MO
C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
On the front, remove the hub and rotor as a single unit. It's time to repack the wheel bearings anyway. Don't drill the rivets out of the front.
Rear is a little different. Lots of threads on CF about the rears.
Rear is a little different. Lots of threads on CF about the rears.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 911
Likes: 5
From: TN
I finally got around to replacing my calipers. I have removed them and tried to remove the front rotors to have them turned. They appear to be riveted to the hub. Apparently the whole hub has to removed from the spindle to drill the rivets? Are the rivets needed when putting them back on? Am I missing something?
I am also trying to replace the parking brake shoes and hardware. It appears the lever the cable hooks in does not come out without pulling the hub. I thought it might come out by loosening the backing plate but the more I look at it I am thinking not. Any input is appreciated.
I am also trying to replace the parking brake shoes and hardware. It appears the lever the cable hooks in does not come out without pulling the hub. I thought it might come out by loosening the backing plate but the more I look at it I am thinking not. Any input is appreciated.
C6 the C5 of tomorrow
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 6,665
Likes: 2
From: Twin Cities Minnesota
The rivets are not needed, in as much as the wheel holds the rotor on.
But the rivets do help keep the runout of the rotor in check. and prevent the rotor from flopping around while you try to bleed the brakes.
Not a big deal of youre calipers are in excellent condition, but will let air into the fluid of your lip seals are not perfect.
If you replace the rotors, replace a couple rivits with screws and life will be easier.
Vette valipers can be a bit.. to bleed
But the rivets do help keep the runout of the rotor in check. and prevent the rotor from flopping around while you try to bleed the brakes.
Not a big deal of youre calipers are in excellent condition, but will let air into the fluid of your lip seals are not perfect.
If you replace the rotors, replace a couple rivits with screws and life will be easier.
Vette valipers can be a bit.. to bleed
Thread Starter
Navigator
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 9
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From: Shawnee Ks
At this point I know more about the brakes on a 69 then I ever thought I would. I have the parking brake system replaced and working. I have a couple questions for you gents. I thought I would leave my front rotors in place as they are riveted to the original spindles at 68K original miles. The rears have been drilled and were beyond turning so I replaced them. After putting the new rears on I have run out of .003 passenger side and .004 on drivers. I have read that .002 was the factory spec but have also read that .005 is OK with O ring calipers which I just installed. Should I shim for less run out?
This got me wondering what my original riveted front were like. I put the indicator on them and found .009 passenger side and .008 drivers. They are currently 1.230 thick. Looks like I will be drilling the fronts off and turning or replacing. Sound like the right direction?
This got me wondering what my original riveted front were like. I put the indicator on them and found .009 passenger side and .008 drivers. They are currently 1.230 thick. Looks like I will be drilling the fronts off and turning or replacing. Sound like the right direction?
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,116
From: Crossville TN
Re-index the front rotors to different studs and then check runout again. If the runout stays the same, just shim where needed to get it where you want. If it changes, keep indexing the rotor till you find the position having the least runout. No matter what route you go, there is no need to drill out the rivets.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 14,112
Likes: 28
From: Florida
This got me wondering what my original riveted front were like. I put the indicator on them and found .009 passenger side and .008 drivers. They are currently 1.230 thick. Looks like I will be drilling the fronts off and turning or replacing. Sound like the right direction?
Riveted together, the fronts assembly is exactly the same as a gazillion other GM " one piece" assemblies of that era.
A standard brake lathe that uses the bearing races to mount the rotor/hub assembly is all you need to true the fronts.
The ONLY reason to separate them is if you must replace the front rotors if they are to thin to turn and if that is the case, then bolt the new rotor to the hub and use the same standard lathe.
Depending on mileage, it may be a good time to install new front bearings and races BEFORE having them turned.
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Thread Starter
Navigator
Joined: Aug 2013
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From: Shawnee Ks
Re-index the front rotors to different studs and then check runout again. If the runout stays the same, just shim where needed to get it where you want. If it changes, keep indexing the rotor till you find the position having the least runout. No matter what route you go, there is no need to drill out the rivets.