72.headlamp warning light switch
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 419
Likes: 15
72.headlamp warning light switch
Hi, I replaced both the headlight warning switches on my 72 coupe, and the interior warning light is still on. So I checked out both switches underneath and one side seems correct, as the button is pushed down, but the other side is about 1/4" short of the button being pushed. Is this something I can adjust? The metal tab needs to move another quarter inch or so to push the button on the switch. I examined both sides and everything appears the same, I can't figure out why the passenger side mechanism isn't moving as far as the other side so it comes in contact with the button???
Racer
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 372
Likes: 11
From: Abilene TX
My 69 does the same, but it looks like both buttons on the switch are making contact. I think you need to adjust the clevis that the vacuum pod is connected to to make it longer. I replaced both of my vacuum pods and put in new switches. On driving it the warning goes off and then comes on, I think bumps in the road are causing the headlight bucket move slightly. They do feel tight when up. I even put a screwdriver blade between button and contact and that test did not work. I am going to readjust the clevis to make it longer. I need to pull the dash anyhow, Bubba did not connect the light warning and door ajar switch right, got them reversed. Head lights up and door ajar switch comes on.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,200
Likes: 4,287
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi jh,
I think blitz is right the 'tab' on the link needs to make contact with the button on the switch.
Does the headlight door appear to be fully open?
While the clevis on the actuator rod moves that link, it MAY be that the open 'stop' on the door itself needs to be adjusted to allow the door to open a little bit further. This stop is the threaded bolt that goes through the 'arm' thats bolted to the outer-side of the headlight door. It's part #7 if you have an AIM to look at. The 'stop' bolt may need to be tightened a little which will allow the door to open further.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan
I think blitz is right the 'tab' on the link needs to make contact with the button on the switch.
Does the headlight door appear to be fully open?
While the clevis on the actuator rod moves that link, it MAY be that the open 'stop' on the door itself needs to be adjusted to allow the door to open a little bit further. This stop is the threaded bolt that goes through the 'arm' thats bolted to the outer-side of the headlight door. It's part #7 if you have an AIM to look at. The 'stop' bolt may need to be tightened a little which will allow the door to open further.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 419
Likes: 15
Hi Alan, I'll check out that bolt. The door always pops up fine, but it may need to open just a bit further as you said. I'll let u know and thanks again for the support!
Thanks too Blitz for the info! Ill investigate . Joe
Thanks too Blitz for the info! Ill investigate . Joe
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 419
Likes: 15
I found the bolt, then turned it in so there would be more room for it to open further, but it did nothing, as it's still short of hitting the switch. Once it's open, I pulled on the pivot point and was able to bring it closer to the switch, but it still doesn't get there all the way. I'm afraid I might have to remove the whole unit to work on it, as it's really tight in there. I guess another day as I have bigger fish to fry now. I'll look at the clevis to see if that's easily adjustable first.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,200
Likes: 4,287
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi jh,
Well at least you tried the easy one first.
The clevis may turn or not. Sometimes they're 'frozen' to the actuator rod and putting too much pressure on them can break them because they a cast part.
I'd start by putting something like wd40 on the rod/clevis connection every other day for a while and then give it a try.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan
Well at least you tried the easy one first.
The clevis may turn or not. Sometimes they're 'frozen' to the actuator rod and putting too much pressure on them can break them because they a cast part.
I'd start by putting something like wd40 on the rod/clevis connection every other day for a while and then give it a try.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan
