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I happened on a thread from a fellow forum member with ARP heads and vacuum/oil leak with oil in the intake runners.
I am showing oil on #2, 6 and 8 spark plugs. It is not caked on the plug but it was sufficient that it wiped off and the engine was blowing light blue smoke at idle. Oil on 2, 6 and 8 only because I removed them Sunday while replacing oil pan. I will check 1,3,5,7 this evening.
I have DART IE 180cc intake runner heads. I am reading that rocker stud sealant may be required as the studs protrude into the intake runners (I assume due to clearancing to improve intake port flow volume). Rebuilder may have removed my rocker studs and reinstalled without sealant during cylinder head refresh earlier this year.
Any tech papers from DART on sealing rocker studs? I may have to pull them this weekend and apply black rtv to resolve.
Last edited by TedH; Sep 30, 2013 at 12:27 PM.
Reason: clarify
I would be curious to know the answer to this myself. And also what sealer should be used on the studs and head bolts since I do know that those protrude into the water jackets in the block.
Any tech papers from DART on sealing rocker studs? I may have to pull them this weekend and apply black rtv to resolve.
Ted, I used ARP thread sealer on my rocker studs when assembling my Dart SHP aluminum heads and no problems with leaking so far at 1250 miles. Don't remember how many protruded into the intake tract but quite a few did.
Ted, I used ARP thread sealer on my rocker studs when assembling my Dart SHP aluminum heads and no problems with leaking so far at 1250 miles. Don't remember how many protruded into the intake tract but quite a few did.
This is good info and may help with my blue smoke at idle. Does Permatex offer an equivalent thread sealer for high temps?
I am looking at Permatex Thread Sealant PN # 56521
Looks like I will be tearing the rockers/studs off this weekend.
Ted, I just fixed this exact issue on my RHS Pro-Action Aluminum heads. No sealer on studs = oil in the intake runners..higher the vacuum, the higher the suck factor. Not sure about the exact part but I used permatex high temp thread sealer Im pretty sure it was #59214 but through the package out. Good luck!
Ted, I just fixed this exact issue on my RHS Pro-Action Aluminum heads. No sealer on studs = oil in the intake runners..higher the vacuum, the higher the suck factor. Not sure about the exact part but I used permatex high temp thread sealer Im pretty sure it was #59214 but through the package out. Good luck!
Sure will be a relief if I can solve this issue without re-ringing the engine. Will advise how it turns out.
Id think that permatex rtv of just about any type would work, but dart has a forum and they could answere that with out doubt.
I want to be sure that whatever I get doesn't drop into the intake passage and cause issues. Granted, it would probably disintegrate in the combustion chamber. I'm leaning toward the PErmatex 80062 High Tack if I can get it at Advance Auto.
We used to use Permatex #2 on screw in studs but, it seems to have some problems with syncthetic oils. Now we use "The Right Stuff" on all our screw in studs.
We used to use Permatex #2 on screw in studs but, it seems to have some problems with syncthetic oils. Now we use "The Right Stuff" on all our screw in studs.
Before today, they only sources I could imagine for oil on the spark plugs were PCV, rings, intake gasket or leaking valves (from worn guides or seals).
I would NEVER have thought rocker studs would be a source for oil in intake. Sure glad I was watching the forum today.
I will be thrilled if I can resolve this with sealer and a pair of valve cover gaskets. My labor is 'free'; just have to take the time to do the procedure.
Interesting that you post this. I have a set of Iron Eagle heads and had issues with the studs backing out. They were covered with oil but I assumed that was from being exposed to spray. It may well have been the cause. I ended up using Loctite red and the problem went away. It may well have been the sealing properties go the Loctite hid the original cause because I didn't use sealant on the studs.
Interesting that you post this. I have a set of Iron Eagle heads and had issues with the studs backing out. They were covered with oil but I assumed that was from being exposed to spray. It may well have been the cause. I ended up using Loctite red and the problem went away. It may well have been the sealing properties go the Loctite hid the original cause because I didn't use sealant on the studs.
Good idea. Will definitely check rocker studs for looseness while I'm at it.
Picked up a tube of Permatex # 59235, valve cover gasket and a spare set of exhaust gaskets for good measure. Going to open up the valve covers this evening and start the repair. Will advise if I find oil on the threads and if any are loose or showing odd wear.
We used to use Permatex #2 on screw in studs but, it seems to have some problems with syncthetic oils. Now we use "The Right Stuff" on all our screw in studs.
While picking up my Permatex Thread Sealer, I saw a tube of "The Right Stuff". Looks like a short tube of 'caulk' and indicated it was used to form gaskets.
Yes Right Stuff is Butyl Rubber based sealer and performs quite well, like it better than silicone. Did some differential work on a Jeep Rubicon, didn't have a lot of time, used Right Stuff on Diff covers, let sit for less than 10 minutes and had a great weekend wheeling on back country trails. Ran the Jeep another 10K miles with diffs never leaking a drop.
Yes Right Stuff is Butyl Rubber based sealer and performs quite well, like it better than silicone. Did some differential work on a Jeep Rubicon, didn't have a lot of time, used Right Stuff on Diff covers, let sit for less than 10 minutes and had a great weekend wheeling on back country trails. Ran the Jeep another 10K miles with diffs never leaking a drop.
Never used right stuff on anything yet, herd it's too hard to get off and most things I take apart too much. Still if I had something that had problems sealing and I've never had that prob long as prep/cure time was good, I'd give it a try. If locktight I'd use blue, red you have too burn/heat/cook off and I don't like the idea of putting flame to an assebled engine, just too swap a broken or bent stud.