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put it right behind the manifold, there is a hole in the birdcage, where you can mount the sensor hidden and without drilling a new hole into the frame.
On a fuel injected 40 ******* and a sportster I did with a slightly baffled exhaust, I had problems with the 02 sensor getting a good reading. Open exhaust like side pipes pull in clean air at idle. I had to locate the sensor right off the head and that means it was monitoring only that cylinder or with a baffled exhaust you can weld the bung at the collector.
I installed one on each side, in the collector, and as close to the frame as I could. Sorry I don't have any pics. I started off running the Holley Commander 950 EFI kit in 2005, switched to the Holley HP EFI this past summer. Sensor seems to read fine in the installed location. Don't have any problems with it tuning my car. The other side I have another wideband connected to an AutoMeter wideband gauge. I've been using it for years, since the Commander kit had only come with a narrow band O2.
I installed one on each side, in the collector, and as close to the frame as I could. Sorry I don't have any pics. I started off running the Holley Commander 950 EFI kit in 2005, switched to the Holley HP EFI this past summer. Sensor seems to read fine in the installed location. Don't have any problems with it tuning my car. The other side I have another wideband connected to an AutoMeter wideband gauge. I've been using it for years, since the Commander kit had only come with a narrow band O2.
That's what I needed to know. I talked to Fast yesterday. They said the same, in the collector, with 18-24" of pipe behind it. I think this is the direction I'm going in. Did you remove the header completely, just drop it down, or leave it in place during installation?
I have one in my '79 with Hooker Super Comp headers. Its in the left collector and I did it when the header was out of the car. Not a big deal. Drill a hole. Weld in the bung. Position the sensor at about 2:00 so the end of the sensor points slightly down to prevent moisture from accumulating in the end.
Does anyone have a picture of an o2 sensor bung on the Hooker style header/side pipe? Thinking about going EFI. Thanks in advance.
I put it in the right side collector. I stuffed up the measurements a bit when I welded in the bung. I'm replacing the engine soon so plan on removing the header and welding another bung back and up a bit to get the sensor closer to the frame.
That's what I needed to know. I talked to Fast yesterday. They said the same, in the collector, with 18-24" of pipe behind it. I think this is the direction I'm going in. Did you remove the header completely, just drop it down, or leave it in place during installation?
I left mine in place when I did the installation. I wanted to make sure placement was going to be ok and not have any surprises.
Thanks so much for the pic and info wabco and VTHokei. Exactly what I needed. Do you think you get good solid readings in that location? I'm running homemade glass packs inside so I do have some backpressure. What do you have?
Thanks so much for the pic and info wabco and VTHokei. Exactly what I needed. Do you think you get good solid readings in that location? I'm running homemade glass packs inside so I do have some backpressure. What do you have?
I was using STS baffles but now have classic chambered exhaust inserts. The AF readings look consistent with both.
I put it in the right side collector. I stuffed up the measurements a bit when I welded in the bung. I'm replacing the engine soon so plan on removing the header and welding another bung back and up a bit to get the sensor closer to the frame.
Mine are slightly back from that, actually in the first part of the sidepipe right where it necks down. Mechanic did it there due to FAST's recommendation. I have STS baffles and it fluctates a bit at idle but clears up by 1500 rpm. I want to go with EFI this winter so will probably have two more bungs installed further forward (right where you have them).
Mine are slightly back from that, actually in the first part of the sidepipe right where it necks down. Mechanic did it there due to FAST's recommendation. I have STS baffles and it fluctates a bit at idle but clears up by 1500 rpm. I want to go with EFI this winter so will probably have two more bungs installed further forward (right where you have them).
I get good readings there but just don't like the way I have it angled down.
With the new bung welded in the sensor will be directly behind its current position but up higher so that it sits parallel with the frame and have about 1/4" clearance.
Just a question/thought...are you sure 1/4" clearance will be enough considering engine movement? I ask because I did something similar using an SRIII frame, but because my frame uses two longitudinal bars it takes up more vertical distance. The bars have about 1 1/2" space between the upper/lower so I have the sensor straight into the collector (horizontal and parallel to the ground) with about 3/8" clearance above/below. I was concerned about it hitting the frames rails under engine torque so I built an engine stabilizer bar. Wish I had pics, but I'm away from home for a while.
I was wondering if I could bend the O2 sensor about 90 degrees without damaging it...so that it would enter the collector parallel to the ground and totally clear the frame if engine movement exceeded the clearance...?
ps, I'm not running yet cuz I'm stuck in painting process purgatory...
Beautiful car, by the way...one of my favorites!
v/r,
Rob
Last edited by Postal123; Oct 4, 2013 at 11:39 PM.
Just a question/thought...are you sure 1/4" clearance will be enough considering engine movement? I ask because I did something similar using an SRIII frame, but because my frame uses two longitudinal bars it takes up more vertical distance. The bars have about 1 1/2" space between the upper/lower so I have the sensor straight into the collector (horizontal and parallel to the ground) with about 3/8" clearance above/below. I was concerned about it hitting the frames rails under engine torque so I built an engine stabilizer bar. Wish I had pics, but I'm away from home for a while.
I was wondering if I could bend the O2 sensor about 90 degrees without damaging it...so that it would enter the collector parallel to the ground and totally clear the frame if engine movement exceeded the clearance...?
ps, I'm not running yet cuz I'm stuck in painting process purgatory...
Beautiful car, by the way...one of my favorites!
v/r,
Rob
Thanks Rob,
At first I was thinking the same thing however there is very little movement at the collector. Even though the side pipes are rubber mounted they still hold everything tight.
I trimmed my rocker mouldings with about 1/8" clearance from the primary tubes and have not had any issues with hitting (then again I drive pretty conservatively).
I've also got the sensor mounted in the right collector and as the engine torques it should pull away from the frame, not that it helps you having it mounted between the bars of a SRIII frame.
I think with 3/8" clearance above/below the sensor and your using a stabilizer bar you shouldn't have any problems.
Thanks! That's nice to know. Was thinking about what a mess it would be if occasional interference caused a hairline crack at the weld that could draw in air. The domino effects that a mod brings along never ceases to amaze me. It does keep things interesting though.