For my next project I’ve chosen to tackle multiple things and I’m hoping someone can provide me a list of all the tools I’ll need and any tips as well. I’ve also got a few questions after reading many posts on these topics. I’m looking to replace my steering box (new), rag joint (bought just the lower with flange), springs (front coils, rear mono), shocks, and possibly the bushings for the front sway bar (& links).

1. Aside from every day tools that I have, what specialty or less common tools will I need? I’ve read about the pitman arm remover, pickle fork and possibly a spring compressor. What else do I need?

2. Can I remove the pitman arm from the steering box while it’s in the car? I don’t plan on replacing anything else below the box as the car just got a new power steering valve and some of the related pieces. The puller looks like it hits the center screw/nut/bolt? How do I put the pitman arm back on the new steering box? Do I use the puller to put it back on as well? I’ll probably have to buy another torque wrench since I think mine stops at 80 ft-lbs. As you can tell, I have not watched a video on this yet.

3. I’ve never done coil springs before. Can I use a 1.5 ton jack to accomplish many of the techniques I’ve read about on the forum or will the spring push my jack down to fast? It’s only about a year old (the racing jack from HF). I read about people cutting a ¼ coil and then more if necessary, how hard are these to cut? I’ve got a dremel-equivalent that usually cuts through metal adequately, but nothing like these.

4. Will I need to purchase new ball joints? I’ve never done this or used a pickle fork before, but will it damage the joints to where a new one is necessary? I was going to try and watch a YouTube video about this later when I get to the house.

Anything else I should definitely know? Any parts I should definitely add to the list? The car already has new rear camber rods. With the shocks I was going to buy some of the poly mount grommets to throw on since I’m taking them off anyway.

If anyone feels like writing up a hold-my-hand guide, I’ll take it! As always, thank you all in advance.

 

That is about it. I would highly recommend using spring compressor...the type that goes on the inside of the spring with two hooks and the long bolt goes down through where the shock absorber came through the upper frame area. have the hooks going side to side and not front to rear. And I can not remember right now...but it does make a difference on which hook goes to the inside and outside. One hook is longer than the other...and when they are wrong...it puts the spring in a serious angle and you will never compress it and get it into your lower control arm. when you have ti correct...you can compress the spring and get it to go into the pocket in the lower control arm..
My pitman arm puller will not work with the gear box fully seated to the frame. I have to loosen the gear box and slide out out a little due to the casting on my tool is thick. When I re-install the pitman arm...I have several nuts due to so many gear box changes and getting a new nut with the gear box...I use the nut and tighten it up...then remove the nut and install the lock washer and nut and tighten. I have not ever seen a tool that attaches to the threaded shaft and allow the pitamn arm to be seated without putting stress on the shaft threads.

This is something to not play with and RESPECT. I have a specific procedure(s) I use when removing and installing coil springs. I do not waste my time looking at "other peoples" ways of doing this...especially if they are trying to do it in the backyard without proper equipment. Not saying that it won't work ...but I can not comment on this in a positive way in any fashion. Removing the spring can be done several ways. Cutting or weakening them is one way. But putting them back in without a spring compressor is hazardous...and if you plan on getting spring compressor for installation...use it for removal. But even with the spring compressor for removal...there is a procedure...and if you still have the engine in the car...that will aid you with added weight.

It would be wise...unless they have been replaced are still tight.


Condition of control arm bushings. These can be really fun to replace without the correct tools to prevent collapsing the lower A-arms.

Wheel bearings also.

Condition of all spot welds and attached brackets for lower control arm mounting. I have seen numerous suspension cradles separated and spot welds broken due to accidents and other impact issues.

If the engine cradle is collapsing due to age and design...thus at your upper control arm attachment/alignment areas ( where the shims are located for alignment) there are either very few thin shims or no shims at all. SO the distance between the shaft in your upper a-am...and the perch where it mounts to the engine cradle is very, very close or touching due to NO SHIMS...you might need to either replace the upper control arm shaft with the aftermarket off-set design...or send your car out to a frame shop so they can stretch the cradle back into position so you can install shims and have years of alignment possibilities once again....or also have the "spreader-bar" installed so the upper A-arms can not move inward. ALL the spreader-bar does is hold these points in a set position....the spreader bar CAN NOT spread your cradle back.

DUB

 

Dub - I appreciate the reply.

In looking at the ball joints last night, at least the top joints, they look pretty darn good compared to what I expected. They've been replaced and are the bolted in kind. If I use the pickle fork will I only mess up the boot? I see that I can buy 4 boots from VBP for ~$10.

Do you know what size the pitman nut is? I thought I saw it on a post being much larger than any sockets I currently own, but haven't run across it again. I'll have to pick one up.

Where'd you pick up your spring compressor? VBP has a nice looking one, but it's also $70. It does still seem like a better deal than some of the cheaper ones I've seen though.

Thanks again!

 

Oh gosh---I think the pitman arm nut is 1-1/4".

I have a Snap-on Spring compressor. I would be cautious on being a bargain hunter when shopping for this specific tool. It will be under a lot of tension...and that is not the time to be....ahhhh..."thrifty".

Places like O'Reilly's has a loan a tool. Give them some $$$$...use the tool...return it in the time allowed...and get all your money back. It won't cost you a thing.

DUB