Solid LT1

NEIN! the washer is a special type that has a rolled center hole to engage inside the splined center sleeve of the bushing. If you do not use the proper parts your strut rod adjustments can change do to improper frictional forces. Just like German cars and there sometimes STUPID special parts, this is a part that should be replaced by the proper part. I would also order a replacement strut rod inner bolt as it is not uncommon to overstress this bolt and have it break. I thighten my strut rods a little more than the torque called for in the serivce manual as I use my Corvette in competition events with racing tires and dont want this adjustment for rear camber to change. Good luck, it is many months before your Vette will be able to return to the road, do the job with the correct parts and then you can enjoy the Autobahn with no concerns

zuendler

Thx, I got the correct washers from my local vendor.
I was there to buy the stainless sleeves for the arm bushings. They are thr right material, it was really easy compared with the other ones. Only 2.5 tons to flare it perfectly, great.

Oh, btw: I plan to have the car runnig again until next week. But unless the weather says "yes" I won´t drive it anyway

Edit: pics of the sleeves:






Left: Corvette-America
Middle: Willcox
Right: Stainless (Corvette-America)

Auto Gear

Sorry to hear about the damage. ZZ502s and 461 pontiacs really seem to test gearboxes.
We've got some battle scars too

It looks like you have a well sorted out application and it'll bring you years of enjoyment. Thanks for sharing your experiences.

zuendler

Update:
After a little problem (telling you later) I have a rotor on the spindle.
Measured a runout on the disc of 0.005 (to zero). I did a short search in the forum but could not find a real limit value. One said 0.006 would be ok with o-ring calipers (which I have) so I shouldn´t be worried about it?

zuendler

When I had the trailing arm mounted, I tested the suspension travel.
Then I recognized, that the gap between bushing and trailing arm got wider and closer when the arm moved in and out a bit like it does when it moves up and down.
The bushings moving in the arm should not be. I needed to fix them a bit better to the arm, but what to do? I decided to have them welded and took them to a shop (I don´t have a torch)



Only 3 points per side, but now its tight and does not move anymore.

And some other pics from today:

zuendler

Update:

before and after

Rkreigh

proper! that old munce was never designed to hold back a furry rat

Rkreigh

the keisler kit eliminates much of the hassle and will fit better than most

I don't think you'll break it with street tires based on what you have described

zuendler

Well...you should read the complete thread
I am very glad that I went not with Keisler (now SST).
This saved me ~4000bucks because they went chapter 7 one month later.