82 will not start, AGAIN!
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 44
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82 will not start, AGAIN!
This is the 2nd time in about 3 weeks that my 82CE will not start. Ran fine last night but will not start today.
Fuel pump is working but I am not getting any initial prime. Getting fuel to the throttle bodies (cracked fuel line and have fuel pressure at initial prime). I have tried to prime the system with putting some gas down into the intake with no impact (does not try to start). Have pulled all the related fuses and they are all good and have plenty of juice coming from the battery. No check engine codes present other than the code 12. Checked to make sure I have spark and I do (seems to be a little weak but might not be getting a good ground). Not sure where to go from here.
The last time it did this I had the exact same conditions. The only thing I did was put in the jumper to check for CEL codes and afterwards it fired right up and has probably started 20 or more times since.
Fuel pump is working but I am not getting any initial prime. Getting fuel to the throttle bodies (cracked fuel line and have fuel pressure at initial prime). I have tried to prime the system with putting some gas down into the intake with no impact (does not try to start). Have pulled all the related fuses and they are all good and have plenty of juice coming from the battery. No check engine codes present other than the code 12. Checked to make sure I have spark and I do (seems to be a little weak but might not be getting a good ground). Not sure where to go from here.
The last time it did this I had the exact same conditions. The only thing I did was put in the jumper to check for CEL codes and afterwards it fired right up and has probably started 20 or more times since.
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From: New Or-leens Loo-z-anna
This is the 2nd time in about 3 weeks that my 82CE will not start. Ran fine last night but will not start today.
Fuel pump is working but I am not getting any initial prime. Getting fuel to the throttle bodies (cracked fuel line and have fuel pressure at initial prime). It would be a good idea to check the pressure with a fuel pressure gauge. I have tried to prime the system with putting some gas down into the intake with no impact (does not try to start). Sounds like the extra fuel is drowning the weak spark. Have pulled all the related fuses and they are all good and have plenty of juice coming from the battery. No check engine codes present other than the code 12. Checked to make sure I have spark and I do (seems to be a little weak but might not be getting a good ground). Not sure where to go from here. Have you replaced the distributor cap & rotor lately?
The last time it did this I had the exact same conditions. The only thing I did was put in the jumper to check for CEL codes and afterwards it fired right up and has probably started 20 or more times since. Try the old "disconnect the battery for 10 minutes & reconnect" to see if it tries to start.
Fuel pump is working but I am not getting any initial prime. Getting fuel to the throttle bodies (cracked fuel line and have fuel pressure at initial prime). It would be a good idea to check the pressure with a fuel pressure gauge. I have tried to prime the system with putting some gas down into the intake with no impact (does not try to start). Sounds like the extra fuel is drowning the weak spark. Have pulled all the related fuses and they are all good and have plenty of juice coming from the battery. No check engine codes present other than the code 12. Checked to make sure I have spark and I do (seems to be a little weak but might not be getting a good ground). Not sure where to go from here. Have you replaced the distributor cap & rotor lately?
The last time it did this I had the exact same conditions. The only thing I did was put in the jumper to check for CEL codes and afterwards it fired right up and has probably started 20 or more times since. Try the old "disconnect the battery for 10 minutes & reconnect" to see if it tries to start.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 2,248
Likes: 67
From: Warrington PA
Finalist 2020 C4 of the Year - Unmodified
Well I'm another member, but not an expert.....
The OP mentioned that the spark may be a little weak, how did you determine that?
If you are getting fuel and the pressure is good, then there is some type of electrical issue looming. Go through the "sticky" in the above section, and also take your distributor cap off and check your coil wires, in that they are not split, or starting to come apart. Mine broke completely months ago and left me on the side of the road, those wires are very thin. Also check the cap & rotor as mentioned above and look in the "sticky" for info on the ignition module and suggestions for that part.
Check every connection that you can and make sure it is secure. You may also have the CTS (coolant sensor) going or gone bad.
Hopefully it is something simple and you can get started quickly.
Good luck, let us know your progress................Tom
The OP mentioned that the spark may be a little weak, how did you determine that?
If you are getting fuel and the pressure is good, then there is some type of electrical issue looming. Go through the "sticky" in the above section, and also take your distributor cap off and check your coil wires, in that they are not split, or starting to come apart. Mine broke completely months ago and left me on the side of the road, those wires are very thin. Also check the cap & rotor as mentioned above and look in the "sticky" for info on the ignition module and suggestions for that part.
Check every connection that you can and make sure it is secure. You may also have the CTS (coolant sensor) going or gone bad.
Hopefully it is something simple and you can get started quickly.
Good luck, let us know your progress................Tom
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 2,248
Likes: 67
From: Warrington PA
Finalist 2020 C4 of the Year - Unmodified
Rereading your post, you said..."Fuel pump is working but I am not getting any initial prime." Do you mean that with the air cleaner off and looking at the injectors, that when you turn the key, there is no fuel priming the TB's?
You should hear the fuel pump (when you turn the key) run for about 2seconds and then the injectors prime.....with engine running your fuel spray should resemble an open umbrella.................
You should hear the fuel pump (when you turn the key) run for about 2seconds and then the injectors prime.....with engine running your fuel spray should resemble an open umbrella.................
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2011
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Have not changed any of the electrical stuff recently.
Hear is what I have found so far:
I am not getting the initial prime at the TB injectors. I am getting gas to the TB's (good pressure) and hear the 2 second buzzing sound and then quits as normal. Installed a noid light to the injector connectore and not getting any signal to the injector when trying to start or initial turning of the key.
The last time I this issue Ipulled a plug to check for the spark. This time I purchased an in-line tester and do not have any spark showing. Will pull a plug and verify no spark.
I have 12v coming to the battery terminal at the distributor. Starting to tear into the distributor to see if anything is visually wrong.
Seems to be some type of electrical issue but not quite sure where. Pulled and reconnected several electrical connection and they all seemed to be fine.
Hear is what I have found so far:
I am not getting the initial prime at the TB injectors. I am getting gas to the TB's (good pressure) and hear the 2 second buzzing sound and then quits as normal. Installed a noid light to the injector connectore and not getting any signal to the injector when trying to start or initial turning of the key.
The last time I this issue Ipulled a plug to check for the spark. This time I purchased an in-line tester and do not have any spark showing. Will pull a plug and verify no spark.
I have 12v coming to the battery terminal at the distributor. Starting to tear into the distributor to see if anything is visually wrong.
Seems to be some type of electrical issue but not quite sure where. Pulled and reconnected several electrical connection and they all seemed to be fine.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 2,248
Likes: 67
From: Warrington PA
Finalist 2020 C4 of the Year - Unmodified
check your ignition control module, make sure there is a coating between the plate and the module, it's possible that it is fried. you can take it out and get it checked at the auto parts store.
alos check the two 3 amp fuses for the injectors in the bottom of the fuse box.
alos check the two 3 amp fuses for the injectors in the bottom of the fuse box.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 44
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Definitely something in the distributor area. Took the cap off and did not seem any signs of damaged. Took the rotor off and cleaned the contact arm with some sandpaper and electrical cleaner. Made sure all the connections inside the disto were connected. Did not remove module but can tell grease was in place. Reinstalled disto cap.
Took coil out and check all connections. Verified ground at coil. Verfied continuity at coil. Reinstalled coil to cap
Turned key and fired right up. Now my concern is I'll get stranded somewhere since I have no idea what was wrong. Can the auto parts store tell if the module is going bad or just pass/fail?
Took coil out and check all connections. Verified ground at coil. Verfied continuity at coil. Reinstalled coil to cap
Turned key and fired right up. Now my concern is I'll get stranded somewhere since I have no idea what was wrong. Can the auto parts store tell if the module is going bad or just pass/fail?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 2,248
Likes: 67
From: Warrington PA
Finalist 2020 C4 of the Year - Unmodified
Definitely something in the distributor area. Took the cap off and did not seem any signs of damaged. Took the rotor off and cleaned the contact arm with some sandpaper and electrical cleaner. Made sure all the connections inside the disto were connected. Did not remove module but can tell grease was in place. Reinstalled disto cap.
Took coil out and check all connections. Verified ground at coil. Verfied continuity at coil. Reinstalled coil to cap
Turned key and fired right up. Now my concern is I'll get stranded somewhere since I have no idea what was wrong. Can the auto parts store tell if the module is going bad or just pass/fail?
Took coil out and check all connections. Verified ground at coil. Verfied continuity at coil. Reinstalled coil to cap
Turned key and fired right up. Now my concern is I'll get stranded somewhere since I have no idea what was wrong. Can the auto parts store tell if the module is going bad or just pass/fail?
The real test is to see if it starts up the next few days, I would try to start it up as much as you can cold and hot. Go through alot of repeat starts, that way you can determine it your you are still having the problem or not.
You can always refer to the "sticky" and check out the module further and recoat before installing.
Let us know how it goes.........................
Tom
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Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Bridgewater nj
If you put gas down the TBs and its throwing a spark, it should sputter! I would pull a few plugs, clean them, make sure a spark is jumping, re install and fire her up.
If a module or ECM goes, you have nothing! No spark, no fuel prime and a check engine light.
This is a long shot but the timing chain might have jumped a tooth if the motor has some miles on her. It usually happens when you shut it off
If a module or ECM goes, you have nothing! No spark, no fuel prime and a check engine light.
This is a long shot but the timing chain might have jumped a tooth if the motor has some miles on her. It usually happens when you shut it off
